Making a "shorter" action

The extractor cam Is roughed to its final dimention. I have opted against the rem braze/solder on handle and instead I am going to machine a rear lug on the bolt that will act on the extracting cam and the bolt handle will be TIG'ed to that.

I am planning on dialing the action in on the four jaw today (via tight fitting mandrel and 2 test indicators) then bore the lug clearance and cut the tennon threads.

As for a bolt stop I PM'ed Stiller and asked about buying on of their bolt stops. I saw the style they use on the predator model and It should work with little modification.

thanks,
Sawyer
 
fusionrider said:
As for a bolt stop I PM'ed Stiller and asked about buying on of their bolt stops. I saw the style they use on the predator model and It should work with little modification.

thanks,
Sawyer
Click to expand...
If Jerry doesn't sell you one, I'll sell you an AMT. I've installed a number of them in Rem 700s.
Are you boring out the end of the receiver that already has the raceways cut? If so, I'd probably rough it out pretty close on a vertical mill with a multi-flute endmill. Interupted cuts with a single point are not fun on the lathe.

Jay, Idaho
 
I Now have the action bored and on monday I will thread it. I decided on 15/16-16 threads as they seem to leave plenty of wall thickness and the minor dia. clears the bolt lugs by .010 on each side. The boring went well and the boring bar handled the interupted cut just fine with .025 passes.

After threading I will cut the chamfers on the action's integral lugs that allow for smooth bolt close and clearance for the extracting cam motion. I have some Ideas on how to do it but I wondered if someone with experience had a better way than filing or dremel work? It looks like a delicate or tedious job either way.

Jay : I haven't heard back from Stiller but saw on there site that a "bolt stop" will be 15$ + shipping. It doesnt state which type or what pieces you get. I am not familiar with AMT but if it is similar to the predator's stop I am interested. Overall length Is the only concern, the shorter the better.

thanks,
Sawyer
 
Dennis Sorensen said:
Left hand port for a right hand shooter and a two lug action poses a problem with a Sako style extractor if you do not also install the Sako style "bolt guide".(Which I have never seen on anything but a Sako)
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Actually if you take a look at where the sako style extractor is located when the bolt is closed on a left port right bolt action, it's the safest sako style extractor layout that you can have. There is no place for it to go in case it is blown out of the bolt. It would be completely contained in the right raceway by the bolt handle at the rear and no cutout in the right hand raceway. A gas port to vent off pressure might not hurt anything just in case the extractor does get blown out of the bolt.
 
Mike Bryant said:
Actually if you take a look at where the sako style extractor is located when the bolt is closed on a left port right bolt action, it's the safest sako style extractor layout that you can have. There is no place for it to go in case it is blown out of the bolt. It would be completely contained in the right raceway by the bolt handle at the rear and no cutout in the right hand raceway. A gas port to vent off pressure might not hurt anything just in case the extractor does get blown out of the bolt.
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You lost me here Mike. If there's no port on the side with the extractor then how do you eject the spent case? What am I missing?

al
 
If you're worried about overall length of the bolt stop, why don't you use a spring loaded plunger style stop. I've seen those on modified rem benchrest actions.
 
alinwa said:
You lost me here Mike. If there's no port on the side with the extractor then how do you eject the spent case? What am I missing?

al
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With the bolt open, the sako style extractor is located right above the top of the left lug of the action and the spent case ejects out the left port. When the bolt closes, the left lug is now on the top of the action and the extractor has rotated with the bolt to where it is now on the right side of the action facing right above the right raceway. With a right bolt left port action there is no port on the right side of the action, so there's no place for the extractor to go if it gets blown out of the bolt. Dennis had a comment about this later on in the thread, but I hadn't read the complete thread so missed it until later.
 
Short rifle actions

The shortest action that I've seen is a Wichita shell holder action.You have to remove the bolt for each shot though.

Glenn:D
 
msalm
I have never seen a bolt stop like that could you describe it or post a pic?
I have thought about a pin or spring loaded plunger but have never seen it done before.

As for a sako extractor It is an option because a rem seems like it could be problematic to install and I dont plan on pushing any pressure limits with this little gun. The only problem I could see for a sako extractor is that I need to eject straight out the side, but a sako extractor by design grabs the top corner. To get an apropriate ejection angle with the sako would I have to put the ejector high on the bolt instead of the far right like I had planned? or is there a different type of sako extrator that grabs down further on the case?

thanks,
Sawyer
 
Sinclair used to show a pull type bolt stop in their catalog. It goes into a 5/16-24 tapped hole in the left raceway. You sinply pull the stop and slide the bolt past. I think they may have been made by Hart or else Hart made a similar one. Not very hi-tech, if that's important, but they work fine.

Mike Swartz
 
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Mike Swartz said:
Sinclair used to show a pull type bolt stop in their catalog. It goes into a 1/4-28 tapped hole in the left raceway. You sinply pull the stop and slide the bolt past. I think they may have been made by Hart or else Hart made a similar one. Not very hi-tech, if that's important, but they work fine.

Mike Swartz
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b9g229.jpg
 
That stop most definatly would work and would be much simpler to install but does it ever get in the way? It looks like it would especially on a left port action.


sawyer
 
fusionrider said:
That stop most definatly would work and would be much simpler to install but does it ever get in the way? It looks like it would especially on a left port action.


sawyer
Click to expand...

Some have even used a 1/4x 20 socket head screw with "o" ring underneath, the threads removed in the lug contact area, screw/unscrew 3 revolutions for bolt removal. Very simple, little protrusion, but too rudimentary for most........................Don
 
Mike Bryant said:
With the bolt open, the sako style extractor is located right above the top of the left lug of the action and the spent case ejects out the left port. When the bolt closes, the left lug is now on the top of the action and the extractor has rotated with the bolt to where it is now on the right side of the action facing right above the right raceway. With a right bolt left port action there is no port on the right side of the action, so there's no place for the extractor to go if it gets blown out of the bolt. Dennis had a comment about this later on in the thread, but I hadn't read the complete thread so missed it until later.
Click to expand...

gottit Mike, thanx.

I was simply confused, I was thinking of the sliding plate (AR-15 style?) which installs in the lug itself. My bad. My buddy's 700 with a Sako ext sets as you describe but on the right side of course and not as well contained. I haven't got any Sako'd Rem's so I just mis-pictured it. Of course the same configuration on the LEFT side but with a right bolt is nicely contained......

Musta' been the late nite posting :rolleyes:

al
 
More Pictures

I threaded the front of the action today and everything turned out good. The 17-4 was amazing to cut and the finish on the threads is great.

100_0653.jpg


100_0652.jpg


100_0651.jpg


thanks,
Sawyer
 
Sweet, I wish I had the equipment and ability to machine one for myself.
 
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