Interarms Mark X as a Swtch Barrel?

J

jimfinn

Guest
Hey All,
I'm not a gunsmith and did hesitate to post on this forum. I read it very often and generally feel it is a place for you gunsmiths to share idea.
I would just like to know if anyone can tell me if there is any reason why an Interarms Mark X action shouldn't/couldn't be set up for a switch barrel?
I don't want to trouble folks for how to information, just is this is a good, possible but not too smart, or a plain dumb idea or not.
I have Mark X setup as a 338 Win Mag. I'd like to try out the new 375 Ruger cartridge, but affording a new action, stock, etc. isn't going to happen anytime soon, due to money. I really like the 338 and don't want to totally give it up. Hence the switch barrel idea.
Thanks
Jim
 
No reason not to do it. Get you a barrel vise and action wrench and it will work just fine. The one thing you will need to watch for is that the barrel should be fully floated in both cases because it's going to be impossible to get them both identical and if there is any interference between barrel and stock it's going to play havoc with the bedding.
 
Thanks Mickey,
One reason I like this rifle is it has a custom light weight fiberglas stock. I mean built from scratch for the rifle back in the mid-80's. The stock fits me really well and I have no problem shooting full 338 Win Mag loads off the bench without a muzzle brake. The action was trued up just last year when I had the 338 barrel put on. It also has a pretty good Timney trigger on it. I also had a three-position Winchester safety installed. So all in all it is a bit more than a factory Interarms rifle. Plus I have lugged this rifle all over Alaska and taken, moose, bison, caribou, black bear, Dall sheep, and deer with it. That is I am attached to the darn thing!
If I go ahead with it I'll keep the barrel contour the same if possible. If not and it touches the stock I'll just get out my large wooden dowels wrapped with sand Paper.
Thanks Again
Jim
 
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Switch barrel Mark X

Barnes Bullet folks had 2 Mark X rifles setup as switch barrels. One was for mag. cases the other for 308 case head size. They used a threaded ring about .500 thick with a tommy bar or a pin "c" type wrench to tighten . Just screw the barrel in to the internal sholder and tighten like a savage. If I remeber one had barrel for 375 H&H,338 mag.,7mm mag. the other was setup for 22-250,25-06,30-06. this was at least 10 years ago. They were their personal hunting rifles.:eek::eek::eek::D:D:D:D O.W.L.
 
Wellll, I've never done a Mk X but if it's an unchanged 98 design then yes they work OK but they're not the easiest to use as switch barrels. The Mauser 98's that I've fiddled with have two shoulders in them and fitting is a bit of a bugbear, especially if you're wanting to switch very often. And the actions are very easily twisted so I'll strongly recommend either Brownell's big hogofa' outside wrench [ http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/st...=LARGE RING MAUSER RIFLE ACTION WRENCH & HEAD ]or if you want to switch without removing from the stock then a good rear entry wrench and a steady hand.... don't lean sideways on 'em.

That said, in your situation I'd go at it in a heartbeat....... just be careful to note the two engagement surfaces.

al
 
alinwa said:
That said, in your situation I'd go at it in a heartbeat....... just be careful to note the two engagement surfaces.

al
Click to expand...

I have always been a believer of fitting the barrel to the headspace ring and not the action face on a 98. I give about 2 thou clearance. I don't think it was ever intended to have both... but if you do the action should be set up on a mandrel that sits hard against the headspace ring and true the face of the action. One would be hard pressed to see any difference in accuracy.
 
Mauser 98 makes a good switch barrel for general hunting and such and Dennis is exactly correct on the headspace setup.
If you are using the correct action wrench then there is no more risk of twisting them than most other magazine actions .
I have been using them for many years without trouble just the way Dennis says to set the barrel face up against the amourers lugs .
 
Thanks Guys,
I've started looking at some barrels and will most likely go ahead with this pretty soon.
J. Valentine: Which action wrench are you referring to? Is it the Brownells LARGE RING MAUSER RIFLE ACTION WRENCH that Al mentioned or is there a rear entry wrench that works as well or better.
My next quest will be to try an determine if there is a local (Anchorage AK area) gunsmith that is familiar with this action. I know there are lots of great folks down South, but it adds about $50 shipping each way to the total cost. I'm going to print out your responses and bring them in to a couple of guys and hear what they have to say about it.
Jim
 
Once the original military barrel is gone you will only need a rear entry wrench and a light barrel vice to switch new lighter fitted barrels .
Any commercial two hand rear entry wrench for a Mauser 98 should work OK .
Just make sure your gunsmith understands that you want to switch barrels and don't let him tighten them up excessively or put any locking goo on the barrel threads .
The Brownells LARGE RING MAUSER RIFLE ACTION WRENCH is good for removing a barrel when the action and barrel is out of the stock and the scope removed .
As in getting out the original tight military barrel.
If you want to switch while still in the stock you need enough clearance around the thick part of the barrel in the forend to get it out and clearance from the scope objective.
A Mauser 98 barrel can be turned down smaller in the reinforce area than other barrels because it locks on the armourers lugs and not the action face.
Helping the switch situation a bit more .
A rear or side action wrench is needed in this instance because the scope and stock are in the way of the other type of wrench.
The big question is does the Interarms Mark X Mauser have armourers lugs ? As I can't remember if it does or not.
 
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On most sporters you will have to remove the stock. As you unscrew the bbl it will contact the stock before the tenon comes out of the action. If you want to be able to change the bbl without removing the stock then you will have to accept a LOT of clearance between the bbl channel and the bbl.

An internal action wrench and a bbl vise will be all YOU need to purchase. The gunsmith that does the chambering should already own the proper external action wrench needed to break loose the possibly tight factory bbl.

By the time you pay for a aftermarket blank, chambering labor, possibly a reamer, you may find that you can purchase a factory rifle in the caliber you want.
 
Hey crb,
I know that likley the most cost effective way to go is to buy a factory rifle. However, I know myself well enough to know that I wouldn't be satisfied with an out of the box rifle. I'd end up wanting to tweak and replace this and that, etc.
Besides, check out my post #3 and you'll see that I have some history with this rifle and have already done a fair amount of customizing already.
The 338 barrel isn't a factory one. It is a Broughton that Butch Hongisto installed for me and it shoots great. I'll check with Butch and see how tightly he torqued it in. My guess is he didn't crank it in really hard.
Thanks again for all the info and ideas.
Jim
 
Well I went and done did it! I have a barrel ordered from Tim North and have decided to have him send it right to Butch. Last summer I got to spend a few days with Butch and watched while he threaded, chambered, and installed a barrel, plus he has done about four other rifles for me. I know there are lots of other great gunsmiths out there, but having a personal relationship with Butch goes a long way. Tim has a 375 blank on hand so it shouldn't take too long to get a contoured barrel to Butch. Heck I may even have rifle to play with by fairly soon.
Jim
 
Clemson said:
Excuse my ignorance. What are "armourers lugs?"

Clemson:confused:
Click to expand...

Armourers lugs are just as Dennis says a partial ring of steel infront of the normal locking lugs which allows the face of the barrel chamber to lock up against instead of on the barrel shoulder.
This arrangement was for military armourers to be able to quickly change a pre chambered and threaded barrel .
If the chamber in all replacement barrels is a presett depth from the barrel face to suit a certain lot of actions . Then as long as it locks up against the lugs it will have similar headspace in all the actions . Good enough for military purposes at the time .
However as you lock and unlock a barrel in a Mauser 98 the armourers lugs tend to cut into the face of the barrel a bit more each time and the headspace can creep a few thou tighter over a period of time.
It is not really a problem in a hunting rifle and might even compensate somewhat for bolt lug wear allthough I have never tested it.
It is a good idea to chamfer and smooth the edge of the lugs to minimise this effect as some are bit sharp.
 
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OK, it was the terminology that was throwing me off. We Mauser guys refer to that surface as the "Primary Torque Shoulder" on a Model 98. The face of the receiver is the secondary torque shoulder, and at most may be set up to snug up to the barrel shoulder when the tenon crushes against the primary torque shoulder. As previously mentioned, it is not necessary to have it touch at all on that secondary shoulder.

Thanks for the explanation!

Clemson
 
Peter Paul Mauser called it Waffenmeister zerrt " Armourers lugs "
 
Welllll, I heard it differently.

You'se guys can call it how you want and DO it how you want :) but I was taught by Franz Achleithner, Ferlach trained Master Gunsmith and wife of Emma Achleithner the engraver, that for proper accuracy you must use both shoulders...bottoming on the armourers lugs first. ".002 crush for beginners. .001 crush for masterful fit"............

Now Franz isn't here to ask but I'll take his advice over the stuff about "leaving a 2-thou gap"............seeings how he actually KNEW the Mauser family and was a third generation armourer who moved here from Austria. ;)

Dude wants a switch-barrel......

al
 
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