cleaning rods
- Thread starter dbaird
- Start date
Bill Gammon
New member
Check with BENCHRITE
http://www.benchrite.com/cscart/index.php
http://www.benchrite.com/cscart/index.php
adamsgt
Jerry Adams
+2
If you go the Ivy route as I have a few times.
Get the Jag built right on the rod as you will not get any false readings on your patches.
J
Jack
Guest
I have stainless steel pro shot cleaning rods . But I have been told those are not good because they cause wear in the bore when the flex under normal pressure of running a patch down the bore. I have not noticed any problems but since you are buying I would say go with coated or fiber glass if I was informed correct . I liked the proshot rods because they don't have a bearing to wear out / stop the cleaning rod from turning in the bore.
Jim - who makes the aluminum rods that you use?
I myself only use stainless-steel rods, and got away from coated rods also.
D
J
Jack
Guest
I agree that the coated rods get dirt embedded in them and that will cause damage .that is why I bought the stainless steel rods . Then I was told by reputable source about the wear caused by stainless steel . However I can not tell that stainless steel cleaning rods have caused me any problems.
It seems there are to schools of thought on the topic . I see valid points in both sides .
Donovan, I use an aluminum jag and a SS. Ivy rods (Look at Sinclair)…… Jack,I don't know anything or used any SS rod except an Ivy, so i can't speak for them but carbon splinters and as you know dirt get imbedded in the coating and acts like sand paper. There are no marks at all on the Ivy rods so no peening is going on and you can't hear them hitting going down the bore. I did cut off the bore guide to move the insert forward so it is inside the rear of the action to keep better alignment…….. jim
Lee Martin
Active member
J
Jack
Guest
My school of thought is in line with yours . I think the fiber and coated rods get abrasive dirt stuck on them . I have seen several that looked dirty .i have never owned /used anything but stainless steel so I can't say for sure .Yes you want to used quality materials because the goal is to maintain the best accuracy and barrel life as possible.
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G'day.
When I lap an engine cylinder for a piston or my barrel for a projectile the usual method is to use a soft lap so that the lapping compound may be embedded in the lap. Also the hole seems to wear down much faster than the lap wears out. Given all this, my own preference is for a polished steel cleaning rod with a decent bore guide. I may be wrong, your opinions may vary, just offering a observation from my own experience of lapping stuff.
Regards from Australia * Danny M *
When I lap an engine cylinder for a piston or my barrel for a projectile the usual method is to use a soft lap so that the lapping compound may be embedded in the lap. Also the hole seems to wear down much faster than the lap wears out. Given all this, my own preference is for a polished steel cleaning rod with a decent bore guide. I may be wrong, your opinions may vary, just offering a observation from my own experience of lapping stuff.
Regards from Australia * Danny M *
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Uthink Uknow
New member
I have and I use both Pro-shot and Ivy stainless steel rods. I used to use Dewey coated rods. One difference in the coated and stainless is that I have felt that the coated rod flexed more and I thought that may translate into rubbing the bore more. Both the Pro-shot and the Ivy rotate better in the handle than my OLD Dewey. I don't remember if I had that problem when the Dewey was new and I was younger. No matter which rods you use, the use of a good guide is paramount. Also, be sure the ferrule on the brush and the jag match the diameter of the rod at the point where they join.
Boyd Allen
Active member
Some time back, a friend who did not like the flex he was getting with a coated rod, when starting a new brush, switched to a Pro Shot rod for that use, and kept his coated rod for patch work. Personally, if I have an issue with starting a brush, I choke up on the rod to get it in the bore, and I never use tight patches, preferring to take the solvent into the bore, rather than leave it in the chamber. One thing that I have done for a long time, is to wipe down my rods fairly often, and I patch with short strokes, for several patches, before starting to brush. This eliminates a good deal of the abrasive material before I start brushing, so that I am only using the brush for what the patch cannot do, and the rod and brush are much cleaner during use.
Lee Martin
Active member
I've had a Dewey for over 10 years and it has held-up fine. No doubt they flex a little more since the coating requires a thinner core diameter. But with the right bore guide and stroke they've done well for me. I've heard folks say the coating can come off by the tip but I've never experienced that. And like others, I keep mine meticulously clean.
BTW, anyone ever try brass rods? My dad makes his own one-piece and has used brass for over 40 years.
-Lee
www.singleactions.com
BTW, anyone ever try brass rods? My dad makes his own one-piece and has used brass for over 40 years.
-Lee
www.singleactions.com
Uthink Uknow
New member
Yes, Dan, I have seen the Dewey SS rods and they do look good.
I have never thought about a brass rod. Sounds like a good idea.
I have never thought about a brass rod. Sounds like a good idea.