Calipers - Advice

Jackie,
How do you measure seating depth with micrometers? I don't recall ever seeing a comparator for use with a mic. I guess if you're a machinist you could make one.
I'm having problems getting bullets to seat to a uniform depth. I've tried a Redding Comp Micrometer die and a Forster competition die.
They are both giving me variances up to .012".
With both dies I loaded 4 dummy rounds with Hammonds bullets (he built the gun). I measured them with a comparator and a set of Lyman calipers taking notes all the while. I got frustrated with it and put it down for a couple days.
I went back to it yesterday and remeasured all 8 cases. In each instance they measured different than the first time, in some cases as much as .012".
If the calipers are correct how do you explain the difference? With .003" grip I don't think they moved on their own.
I blackened 1 dummy round and ran it into each die. They both left a very shiny ring on the ogive.
I think I've eliminated the variables which leaves the measuring tool.
I've had it for about 25 years so I guess I can't complain.
Why risk using a cheapy set when you can eliminate another variable by buying a quality set. With $5,000 invested in the rifle I can't see scrimping on the tools it takes to make it work.
Mark
 
Price

of a story. A guy was traveling up the North Carolina coast one day and stopped off at a little General Store. As he walked in he noticed three piles of gunny sacks with a sign over each pile that read: "Clams" $10, $15, and $20. He also noticed that the $20 pile was smaller then the rest and asked the proprietor which dollar denomination he sold the most of. The store owner replied: "The $20 bags." Then he asked the owner what the difference was in the quality of the clams. The proprietor replied: "Not a thing. Some people think that because they are paying more they get a better clam." End of story !!! Art

There is no product that one man can't make more cheaply and sell for less.
The buyer who considers only price is this man's lawful prey.
 
my best suggestion as a machinist is to get some (certified) gage blocks so you can test your caliper frequently. the mitutoyo absolute digimatic ip66 i would suggest it is a little more spendy but this is why. completely water and DUST resistant, on a DIAL caliper it has a rack n pinion style gear on it and all it takes is one granual of powder in that gear and you slide over it and you are done with that measuring tool. ( good chance for ever ) the IP certification indicates the tool being dust and coolant ( water ) resistant to me is the key a good caliper, multiple companies sell ip certified tools that would be the #1 thing i would look for.


just my 2 cents
 
This post may not be real welcome, since the emphasis seems to be on the most expensive calipers.

I bought a digital caliper from Midway USA a couple of months back -- brand name is Smith & Wesson but "made in China."

Very nice device. Very smooth, very easy to zero and use. With a baked maroon finish, it is quite handsome even.

====

Maybe the question is, do we all need "the best of the best"?

If you pay three times what I did, exactly what added value are you receiving?

If you were a professional engineer, then the situation might be different.
 
my best suggestion as a machinist is to get some (certified) gage blocks so you can test your caliper frequently. the mitutoyo absolute digimatic ip66 i would suggest it is a little more spendy but this is why. completely water and DUST resistant, on a DIAL caliper it has a rack n pinion style gear on it and all it takes is one granual of powder in that gear and you slide over it and you are done with that measuring tool. ( good chance for ever ) the IP certification indicates the tool being dust and coolant ( water ) resistant to me is the key a good caliper, multiple companies sell ip certified tools that would be the #1 thing i would look for.


just my 2 cents
 
The simple answer

would probably be: quality. Why do we need the best actions, barrels, triggers, stocks, scopes, components? Why would one pay the amount we do for LAPUA or Norma brass, hand made bullets and take measurements with a $10.00 instrument. These devices are no less a precision instrument than a $2000.00 March scope.
 
Space Shuttle

Would you want to fly on a space shuttle that was built with $10.00 calipers or micrometers?
 
Heard on the History Channel. NASA could not build a "Space Shuttle", today.
And on another show. Expert says we can't build an Iowa Class Battleship.
The money. And we don't have the technology.:eek:
By the way. How many space shuttles are left?:eek:
 
Very Interesting

Did they say why they couldn't build a Space Shuttle today, besides the cost. What technology have we lost?
Mark
 
Technology lost. I seem to remember.
A lot of the electronics are digital. Might not be able to stand up to the stress. Look at the heat tile thing. Maybe they should try Gorilla glue.:)
 
With the Battleships. The steel industry can't make 6" steel. 6" steel, 6-8" of concrete, and 6 " of steel for the hull.
 
Ever seen

With the Battleships. The steel industry can't make 6" steel. 6" steel, 6-8" of concrete, and 6 " of steel for the hull.

a nuclear reactor, steam generator, or reactor head?

Tell these engineers and manufactures they can't produce steel thicker than 6".
 
Rs.
Yes, I have seen a reactor( well, only saw the door open, once). 688 boats. The reactor sits next to the switchgear, that I used to service.
it's just something, I remember hearing, on the History channel.
And yes. That statement does sound odd.

ref. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iowa_class_battleship
Armor: Belt: 12.1 in (310 mm),[2]
Bulkheads: 11.3 in (290 mm),[2]
Barbettes: 11.6 to 17.3 in (295 to 439 mm),[2]
Turrets: 19.7 in (500 mm),[2]
Decks: 7.5 in (190 mm)[2]

maybe I heard wrong. Maybe it was 12". I remember concrete in there somewhere...
I see your 6" reactor head. there is a picture here.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Davis-Besse_Nuclear_Power_Station

It's the loss of technology, that I find disturbing.:mad:
 
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caliper experience:

Bought a 6" Mitutoyo dial caliper ($98) years ago, have always been happy with it. Recently noticed the bezel would not hold "zero". Found the very small black plastic "bezel clamp" to be cracked so it no longer puts pressure on the face. Just last week, ran across a used "Starrett" 6" & bought it for considerably less than the price of a new one. Close inspection revealed that it too has a cracked "bezel clamp". Called "Starrett" and ordered several for myself & others. I commented when placing the order that this part seems to break frequently, and the lady said, " they crack because they are over-tightened". Just my limited, recent experience: the plastic part will eventually crack & need replacing.;)
 
working in a machine shop I have used them all. the brown & sharpes are good for some folks- I like a thumb roller wheel myself, the mitutoyos are good for the money- I have some with a click on the roller like a mic has- works good for people with limited "feel" experience. if I have to measure somethin right I use etalons. I have a nice set and has half thousands marked clearly on the face. I also use starrets when they are closer. I don't own a cheap set except all the mitutoyos and starrets. I think as long as they have a brand name on the face and go to zero with the dial up then they are good for what we do. nobody builds something like a space shuttle with dial calipers anyway- for something as precise as calipers they would use a tape measure. I used to make parts like that for the aerospace industry and a robot did all our measuring for us- no calipers allowed;) one thing I will add- the calipers I don't use every day seem to work better when they have the gears exposed on the slide. some brands are covered. they worked better being flooded with coolant and chips all day until some got under the gears- then it was only good for the home shop. always check the zero before you use em!
 
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