I would not do that, as a wood miter saw runs at about 3000RPM and these cold cut saws are only running at 1300rpm. it would probably destroy the carbide blade running it too fast
Best method to cut barrel before chambering
- Thread starter Markhor
- Start date
I would not do that, as a wood miter saw runs at about 3000RPM and these cold cut saws are only running at 1300rpm. it would probably destroy the carbide blade running it too fast
mwezell
Mike Ezell
Agreed. Also, the metal cutting saws hold the part rigidly. Otherwise, it would probably knock out blade teeth and maybe the operator's
B
BG Gunworks
Guest
I use a horizontal metal cutting bandsaw in the shop, but for occasional use a simple 7" abrasive blade in a circular saw will work just fine (though messy as hell), it's just steel. I'd shove a patch down the bore beyond the cut line to keep the abrasive out of the bore and watch the heat.
Pete Wass
Well-known member
From my limited expereince
Parting on a lathe is all about Rigidity and, from my experiences, if there is another way to do it, do it the other way. It's a heck of a lot quicker to cut stuff off with a saw, from my experience.
The Cold Saw sounds interesting. I have seen adverts for them but have never looked into them. No need, really, me.
Pete
Parting on a lathe is all about Rigidity and, from my experiences, if there is another way to do it, do it the other way. It's a heck of a lot quicker to cut stuff off with a saw, from my experience.
The Cold Saw sounds interesting. I have seen adverts for them but have never looked into them. No need, really, me.
Pete
A couple of years ago I started to use an indexable carbide parting system.
I now part barrels at 400-800rpm under power feed with either flood coolant or applied from a squeezy bottle. My lathe isn't a huge rigid thing either, its the typical 13x30 Grizzly type that weighs around 1300lbs and I have an Aloris wedge type tool post. My tool height is just above centre, all my gibs are adjusted to be snug but not to the extent the hand wheels are difficult to use, the compound is wound right back to avoid any unnecessary overhang and of course the parting blade is set square to the work. I use a 0.085" wide blade and have had zero problems now after making at least 100 or more barrel cuts.
I now part barrels at 400-800rpm under power feed with either flood coolant or applied from a squeezy bottle. My lathe isn't a huge rigid thing either, its the typical 13x30 Grizzly type that weighs around 1300lbs and I have an Aloris wedge type tool post. My tool height is just above centre, all my gibs are adjusted to be snug but not to the extent the hand wheels are difficult to use, the compound is wound right back to avoid any unnecessary overhang and of course the parting blade is set square to the work. I use a 0.085" wide blade and have had zero problems now after making at least 100 or more barrel cuts.
What do you consider fine finish work to be?
F
f21sh
Guest
Saw off
When speaking with the barrel manufactures most recommend bandsaw off or part off if you can perform with coolant.
When speaking with the barrel manufactures most recommend bandsaw off or part off if you can perform with coolant.
Screw threads with a tight fit.
Bearing mounting surfaces or surfaces bearing rest against.
Anything better than ~63 micro-inches.
Rubicon Prec.
New member
All these threads were custom fit to the receiver taking a .0005" radial cut until the desired fit was achieved using carbide.
It can be done but the finish would probably be better using HSS.
No matter how well made carbide is it is still particles of carbide in a matrix.
HSS is uniform throughout.
jackie schmidt
New member
As you know, I am in the machine shop business.
We haven't bought a piece of HSS in years. The industry now makes Carbide Inserts for every conceivable machining operation.
Exactly!
Why then did you recommend that the OP use HSS for slow speed parting and warned him away from using a carbide system?
jackie schmidt
New member
You got me there. I do use High Speed parting blades for our Aloris Tool Holders on that particular Lathe. Mainly because I'm in no rush, as the video shows. They work great with the smaller lathes used by many Gunsmiths.
For all of our actual shop parting needs, we use Carbide Insert Parting Tools. If I used a Carbide Insert tool to part a barrel in that Pratt, the Spindle speed would be 800+ RPM.
I agree providing you grind them right, keep them sharp and set them up properly and use appropriate speeds and feeds. Parting can be troublesome for many though and people end up either afraid or lacking in confidence. For those who can't master HSS tool grinding or frankly can't be bothered to learn then indexable systems save a whole load of time and effort.
I know you know this Jackie but for others who dont, the advantage of a carbide system is that it is optimised for the task and every insert is sharp and has the correct geometry every time, unless your machine is as slack as a Vegas hooker it shouldn't be hard to part safely and successfully.
Rubicon Prec.
New member
I ignore CSS when parting and pretty much default to 1000 rpm/.001 ipm for 99% of what I do (1.75" dia or less) regardless of material. Probably not what the tool manufacturers or Machinery's Handbook recommends, but works for me.
Uhhh...what might that engraving on the bottom barrel be?
Rubicon Prec.
New member
I'm waiting on the phone call from that one...
