Any experience with liquid cleaners that claim to remove hard carbon?

bob,
i have said i do not have a borescope..i rely on what the patches and the targets tell me.
i have no issue with carbon at this point.
i do not use wire brushes in any of my moly treated bbls, i have on ocassion used a nylon or fibre brush, but 99% of the time chemicals and patches, no abrasives.
it works for me, your mileage may vary.
mike in co
What I am removing is the black stuff in the first 6-8 inches of the barrel forward of the chamber. I really don't know what it is.
I can say that the toughest stuff to remove is primer fowling that comes from firing a case with no powder. On first glance, one would think that primer residue would be consumed
by the powder , but maybe not.
 
boyd,
maybe try convincing him to wet patch the bbl every 50-100 rounds and skip the issue ?
does he swap guns as he shoots ??...wet patch the cooling gun( they clean better when warm anyway).
dry patch when he picks it up again..and back to shooting...
just an idea...
mike in co
 
Boyd, obtain some "SLIP 2000", plug the muzzle (I just tape with electrical tape) and pour the tube full (I go about 1/2 way up the chamber), and allow to soak over-night: following a good soaking, a patch usually removes the most stubborn carbon . . . the .22 Ackley Swift drove me to this - nothing else I tried would get back to bare metal with so little effort. Oh, you can use the 'SLIP 2000' multiple times. RG
 
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The only products I have found to remove the carbon ring and any hard carbon in the barrel have all been abrasives. Even the Red JB Bore Brite will remove it, and it's what I use most since it's the mildest. I haven't tried Flitz, or Simachrome polish, but suspect they would work also.

The closest product to a liquid that has worked was Remington 40X Bore Cleaner, which just happens to have an abrasive compound in it.:)

I apply it with a patch wrapped around a nylon brush.
 
what did dupont use to say in thier compamy ad's ??
better living through better chemistry.........

you guys keep wearing out your elbows...

mike in co
 
The GM stuff, GM. Part # 1050002, does not touch carbon, just maybe on the surface. My dealer has a bore scope and as Bob Kingsbury said "A borescope is about the best Bull sniffer that can be owned." As usual one guy is trying to take over a thread and he has no factual clue about what his barrel looks like, he is so sold on the GM carbon stuff he should just get into racing, I'm sure they have forums for NASCAR, what say all....
like sbindy said, grease your elbows and use abrasives and rub....
Dave T
 
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Dave that is one thing I could never figure out why most guys treat there barrles like they were new born babys. I know I don't have the power to push the cleaning rod or twist a brush as hard as that bullet is being push down it. Just clean it guys, and yes a bore scope is the best way to do it. sbindy- Flitz works great. I use it all the time cleaning my barrles once you start using it, I believe it makes it easier to remove the carbon once you have it polished with the flitz. You'll get a lot of black patches but when you start getting less black I start cleaning with Kroil.

Joe Salt
 
bob and boyd,
maybe the reason it works for me, is that my competition bbls are all moly coated except for the one hbn. i do not have carbon to bbl contact, i have carbon sitting on the moly coating.

mike in co
 
Bob is right, if you don't use a bores-cope, you don't know

I can echo Bob's story exactly. I always cleaned with both TM solution and Sweets until the patches came out white. Sweets gets the copper out, but little did I know I was merely polishing the glazed on carbon and not getting it out until I got my borescope. When I discovered the glazed carbon, I tried everything to get it out without brushing. My local gunshop said if I soaked wipe-out in the barrel overnight, it would get anything out. I soaked it for three nights running and it didn't even touch it. In the regular steel factory barrels, the center of the barrel would be the only area clean of the carbon. Just ahead of the chamber, ignition causes great heat. At the end of the barrel where the bullet is travelling the fastest, bullet friction causes great heat. The center of the barrel stays coolest. In my stainless Remington factory barrel on the .223, the carbon was only at the chamber end. These barrels had all been religiously and fanatically cleaned from the get-go. Lapped custom barrels are apparently easier to clean. I used the same methods on my Bartlein .243 barrel and it had only a fraction of the glazed carbon in it that the factory barrels did

Anyway, it took the strong compounds with a brass bristle brush to finally get everything clean. Flitz works, but I would recommend Iosso or JB instead. Flitz will get the bore a bit too smooth. Nylon brushes just didn't get it, even with Flitz (I tried that on an old .308 factory bore that I wasn't too concerned about).

It's possible that some folks are getting their bores clean without checking with a borescope, but I'm willing to bet that MANY who think they are, are not.

After getting the barrels clean, I started working on what works to keep them that way. After my next shooting session with the stainless .223 I used the old routine with the TM solution and Sweets, brushing both with a nylon brush. Like before, Sweets got the copper out but TM did not get all the carbon out. I decided to try the wipe-out without letting it set overnight. It didn't get it out with the nylon brush, but it did with the bronze brush. I have more testing to do. I would like to find something that will work with the nylon brush for regular cleanings.

Then there is always the big question, just how clean does it need to be? The guns always shot well after my standard cleanings. Perhaps it simply is not necessary to get them down to bare metal each time.
 
lrgoodger Once you get it clean, then use the Flitz. Yes it will be smooth, but thats the Idea now the barrle will clean up much faster!

Joe Salt
 
I have had good results with "Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover". And yes, I do have a bore-scope.

Dick

I tried C4 and it didn't do anything. I also have a bore scope. What's your procedure?
 
Thanks L.E. but I read all of that, what I would like to know is if it works?
 
i've used it in the automotive and marine industries...before the bans......

i asked in another thread where one can get it...i dont think it is available to public.

mike in co
 
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