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Just cleaned the sump out and unhooked all the plumbing yesterday I have Mobilmet 763 & 766 coming to try I will post results as soon as I get a couple chambers cut. I think I will stick with using the lathes built in sump rather than build something stand alone don't really see an advantage...

I'm lucky enough to have three lathes in the shop one wears a 4 jaw one a 3 jaw and one a 6 jaw adjust true. My particular 6 jaw which is the case with most does not hold very small stock in fact the 3 jaw holds smaller stock so it gets used more often so if going with a 6 jaw I would suggest...

Dave, Thank you for your feedback! I'm sure you at least get a little bit of way oil mixed with it over time does that seem to have any negative effects? How long do you go before changing it out? What kind of pump are you using?

Funny coincidence hearing your story as I have been hauling scrap to the scrap yard the last few days and last week they had the road to the scales shut down due to a huge pile of metal chips (something like 20ft tall!) smoldering trying to catch on fire. Had the fire department there and two...

I know this is old but I never got around to trying an alternative I mixed up another batch of Rustlick and it served me well for another year or so but it is time to change and I don't have any 255 left and need to order more or something to replace it. Just looking for more suggestions and/or...

http://accu-finish.com The accu finish is a low speed diamond wheel sharpening system they are pricey but extremely useful in the machine shop. The company that makes them (Glendo/GRS) also make the tools engravers use.

I now use an Accu Finish II to sharpen the blades but before I had it I used the double end carbide tool grinder with a diamond wheel. You want a 5 degree neg for cast iron so simply set the tool rest at neg 5 and make a quick pass following the radius and then flip it over and do the same that...

You are welcome to borrow mine I don't have any projects coming up real soon but I will need it eventually. The one I have that size is a pattern from Rich King he sells them on practical machinist and you can contact him if you want to buy one. Richard@handscraping.com

We machine heavy wall pipe putting weld bevels on up to 24in plus pipe with 2 in wall thickness and 9 chrome (almost stainless). I started using tap magic extreme "ep extra" and it is impressive I've only used spray cans I don't know if it comes any other way. Beveling pipe uses a form tool...

For what is is worth I have chambered barrels in my truing fixture for quite some time and it works well. Mine was overbuilt from the start since I had plenty of material laying around and I soon realized that I could hold a barrel in it mainly because my lathe is big enough a barrel won't...

Send me your address I'll hook you up. Wouldn't you rather have dom tubing that already has a hole in it? What will your finish ID be?

I have to disagree with Jackie...since I started using Noga indicator holders I'd rather be kicked in the shin as to use anything else!

Also look into Avortec welders on Ebay I have a couple friends that bought them and like them a lot.

Correct on the flexibility you can get the soft flexible leads with the air cooled torch now I believe CK would be your best source I made my own by putting the water cooled leads on my air cooled torch before I knew I could buy them. I see no reason for a gunsmith to have a water cooled torch...

I have both a Mori MS850 and Hwacheon HL460 side by side and I would have a tough time choosing between the two, like Jackie said the fit and finish on the Mori is a little bit better. One thing the Hwacheon doesn't have which is a great feature in my opinion is the oil bath for the crossfeed...

Sorry to hijack but I am wanting to treat an entire Rem 700 action, barrel, bolt, everything...has anybody done this and what were the results? Who best to send it to?

If I were you I would be looking at Legendary Arms Works they make a nice affordable CRF action.

I do my part to save the Bullards! We have: 24" spiral drive 30" spiral drive 36" cut master 42" cut master 60" hydrashift (apparently very rare bullard has no records for it we rebuilt it 3 years ago including planing and scraping the cross rail I power scraped it myself using a 10ft camel...

I just chambered 2 6.5 Creedmoors one was an Obermeyer 5R the other a Krieger 5R and the Obermeyer had problems no matter what I tried. No matter what anybody says the reamer will flex enough in the throat area even with a tight fitting pilot to chatter (if that is what you want to call it)...

I often duplicate existing barrels or make custom contours so it is a necessity for me to be able to profile barrels and in the future I hope to have a hydraulic tracer set up to make things a little easier. With that in mind a made up a simple follow rest to see how it well it works and low...