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Your work is superb leeroy.

Couple of ideas: Buy a Savage left hand target rifle in 308 and buy a drop in shilen or pac-nor bbl in 6.5 creedmore. (still get a gunsmith to help you, but it will not cost much) If you plan to use the factory creedmore ammo, you'll need to order the correct twist and freebore for the specific...

That is one of the things that caught my eye when I was first looking at the 284, was the nearly AI shoulder.

The shoulder is already quite obtuse, I cannot see where you could move it significantly. 70 degrees to 80 degrees?

Yes, I find it odd that it did not take off, when you compare data/efficiencies. Rem 280 with 150 grain bullet, H4831@53 gr 2709 ft/sec Win 284 with 150 grain bullet, W760@53.5 gr 2985 ft/sec And the 284 comes in shorter package. Pete, I will likely get a reamer for the 284 at some point...

There are dimensional differences in the brass. Norma, lapua or 284 win (necked down). I have machined two of them based on the lapua brass. I think Lapua and Norma make a factory ammo for 6.5x284 Norma.....but I do not know anyone who uses factory loads. It's a wonderful cartridge. Some...

It's really only hard if you want to save the barrel. I would write the barrel off. They come off real easy in a power hack saw. Relieve it with a parting tool, or make a HSS tool... warm it up and try. If it doesn't come loose. Plan on machining the tennon out of the reciever. If it starts...

Once youve run one Lou, it's hard to go back.

I'm looking for an engraver for bbls. Does anyone have any suggestions? One that ran from a computer and could take graphics would be superb. Ben

Depth and dia at the shoulder are the two easiest places to make an error.

Prioritizing ES over group is the tail wagging the dog...in my mind.

My dad gave me a 30-40 Krag, that he hunted with for many years, and was the first highpowered rifle I shot when I was 8. The front sight blade is made from a penny. I would never consider altering it. Ben

I will check the land height and groove dia if that will help. I was thinking the tooling marks would tell me more. I guess, at the end of the day, it does not matter who made the bbl. I'd just like to know for my records. Ben

No problem, put a generous amount elec tape on the threads and clamp it a 3 jaw, firm, but not tight. I made an aluminim spacer between my live center and rifling that does not damage the crown. Spin it 300 rpms or so, with your desired sand paper grit...not a bad shop project....shine it right...

Thanks Nat, I ran into a dead end at the dealer, since the rifle was sold a few times by private sales previous to the dealer getting it. Calling folks and asking questions....well, you know what a pita that is with respect to guns... I'll try to get a photo of the endoscope and post that...

I bought a rifle last week at a local gunshop, where I frequently browse the racks. It had a LV contour stainless bbl, spray painted black, no markings. I checked the twist at 12. 6 groove, Chambered 308 on a Mauser action. The price was right, for something to tinker on. Is there any...

Try to get an out of state FFL holder to fax you a copy of their FFL, when you do not have one. It's always "you show me yours...and I'll show you mine" Although not required, i like to have a copy of the recipients FFL, so I know I'm not committing a federal crime. Ben

Pete, State to state from FFL to FFL only. The recipients have to clear the rifle at the other end, as if they were buying it. The FFL's usually charge $25-$50 for their paperwork/time. Ben

Unless the bbl is a custom...and has a good bore...why not just buy a bbl blank and start with a clean slate? With your original contour ,how much meat will be left after you've reamed? Ben

I spend a lot of my time these days in numerous high tech machine shops, and have wondered if this tech could be applied to rifle manufacturing. I guess the average joe just doesn't care, or is unaware of accuracy potential. Like you say, improving the chambering process is really not that...