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anybody?

I ended up doing it by hand. I wend a few turns at a time, used oil kept the die and reamer clear of chips and it went very smoothly. The cases fit fantastic. I'm anxious to load some once fireds to check runout.

I have my reamer. can I put it in the die and give it a turn or two without screwing something up?

This is a new rifle, new cases and new die. New cases do not go all the way into the seater. The case head protrudes .010, once fired cases stick out about .019. can I put some lapping compound on a fired case shoulder and spin the case to polish it out? Is that too much to polish out? Or should...

How about some pics of each and details such as min/max hight, whose flags they work with or what the heads look like?

Got it Brian, thanks. I'll be glad when the season restarts . I picked up my new 600 yd gun on monday. Will do a post about it later. Larry

Results Brian could I get a copy too? Larry lmorrison17@comcast.net

I loaded 10g of bullseye filled the rest with cream of wheat to halfway up the neck then pressed the neck into a thin sheet of wax made from melting candle wax into a butter bowl lid. the wax is just to hold the COW in place. BUT make sure you trim the cases first. Don't let the barrel get hot...

I know it wasn't like that before i made the cases. I had over 1000 round thru the barrel already. I also didn't use bullets. The two methods have differences that would not have predicted. I would like the opportunity to try it again to watch the progress with a borescope and maybe see if it...

I knew where the end of the chamber was because of a previous batch of cases I had made by expanding up method and then used one of those little plugs that Sinclair sells. But when I had made the first set the cases got shorter when expanded. I had never fireformed without a bullet before and it...

I used 10g of bulseye topped off with COW with a wax plug. I did it on a very cold day 5 cases then patch out and let it cool. I did no heat wear on the leading edge of the rifling that my smith could detect. BUT where I made my mistake was not trimming first! The ends of the cases blew out...

Most of the prints I see on the web are PT&G though.

I look at reamer prints and see two dimensions that are what I would think is freebore as I understand it. One is from the end of the case portion of the chamber to a point in in the bore before where the rifling begins. Then there is a small chamfer that goes from the case neck portion to the...

Thanks Kit What I had to do was grind 2 flats on the cone in front to get a vice to hold it. Then I stuck a screwdriver through the hole in the back as a handle to unscrew it. the front bearing is OK the one in the rear is buggered. A little kroil helped but its still not completly free...

Can you take these things apart? The bearings on mine are locked up. BTW I was able to unscrew the rod from the handle. I just can't figure how to take apart the handle.

I shot a factory rifle in a 600yd match with one of those things that sinclair sells It's a flat bottom cradle sort of thing that connects to the rifle at the sling stud hole. I wasn't told I couldn't shoot it in factory class. Maybe if I had some one might have complained though.

I recently bought a box of BR cases and a box of 6.5x47. The 6.5 had much more consistent neck thickness than the BR's. The 6.5's however had the little bit of a flake in the flash holes that had to be reamed out. I dont actually ream the flash hole but I have little drill bit .059 that I just...

I have never sorted by weight. But if I did I would probably weigh a bunch tofind out what total variance was. Then I would make a decision of the tolerance I could live with. But probably the best test would be to wait for a really calm day and shoot some of the heaviest and lightest bullets...

Does anyone know?

Mike Rattigan the link in the post above will take you to the site where you can get his book . Money well spent! http://extremerifleaccuracy.com/