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Just placed an order with these guys, looks good. Ian

I have a lot of experience with these being the Canadian dealer for many years. If you use a Barnard bedding block you will use a cap screw which fits into the bedding block as a recoil lug (clean it well and use loctite). If you want to use conventional bedding then use a recoil lug screwed...

Evilio is that you? My first thought was you were squishing the threads in the action but the vise is on the barrel not the action. Anyway is that you? Ian Robertson

Do you mean for single loading?

4 Jaw Sometime a four jaw is the only way to go, but not for me doing barrels! I look forward to getting mine on my lathe. Being a crip I have an engine hoist to pick the bugger up and get it mounted! Have not needed it yet but I am sure I will need it eventually.

Speaking of 4 Jaws I bought a used four jaw, an old USA make, cleaned it up, very good condition. I have never had it on the lathe. I so far have only held round things with this lathe. Like I said before my set true is awesome. What I have found with four jaws when evaluating some gunsmiths...

Is this about diamond drag queens? Maybe I missed something?? I made my own spindle for this using bronze bushings and a spring loaded Z. Works great, no rotation. I am using it with CNC.

Your action will be either chrome plated or most likely Balinite C depending on vintage. Beads may or may not deal with it, you may need AO or similar.

I use a JGS works great for two axis float, adjustable. PTG has some really great ideas but their QC sucks! I use the PTG reamer stops and the throaters are also a great idea, just won't touch a reamer from them, been screwed too many times. I must admit I just did three barrels in 7LRM with a...

I have a 8" Bison Set True and I absolutely love it. I can set up in a couple of minutes. You need to establish a SOP to use it and just do the same each time. This is what I do. Loosen the face bolts and tighten to have no play, if the dial bounces around they are too loose. Loosen all the...

Make your own Easy to make your own using drill rod. Turn and thread one end to suit the bushings, pick a size of rod just under bore size. If things are not perfectly centred it does not matter because the rod does not rotate and is held in the chuck so just flexes.

I don't really know why anyone wants to put a honking great washer between the action and barrel? Just don't do it! Simple.

Some part numbers would be a big help! Thanks!

Like I have often said, "the fellow that says it can't be done should not interrupt the fellow that is doing it!".

I think some did not read everything from the top, I do it as well. There is only one grade of bearing made in this size, it is not possible to buy a better grade (ABEC rating) of bearing in some sizes, like this one, according to Timken and NSK. The wavy cut in the picture is with the new...

I did notice that the pulley only has the paint worn off in one spot so it must be waving back and forth. I will tune that up as well. Working much better now for what it is. Thanks for all the ideas and PM's.

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Been at it all day. I tightened the bearings, runs just warm after 20 minutes at 1000 rpm. Certainly improved with the bearings tighter, last thing I did was to loosen off the drive belt more and I think it's there now. The cut was done with the same tool, .002 feed, .025 off etc. to compare...

Thanks for all the replies. I did review the old posts prior to changing the bearings to learn as much as I could. It is a used ss barrel, not tapered, held solid in a Bison 8" set true chuck, about 3" out, gibs have been adjusted on both, motor is on rubber and belts replaced with a single...

I have been having problems with the quality of cut. I decided to change the bearings after I had a pattern and could not get rid of it by tightening the preload and still had measurable movement when I pushed sideways on the chuck with one finger. After the new bearings were in I adjusted...