T
trazman
Guest
Hello guys, what is the best range to set zero for .300 win mag? I am using the gun for long range shooting on steel targets and for hunting...
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C
Cheechako
Guest
trazman
If you have all of the details of velocity, BC, etc, you can get a chart from the better ballistics programs that give you the distance to sight in for "point blank range". I think some of the better loading manuals have the same type of data but the print-outs are much nicer to have.
ray
If you have all of the details of velocity, BC, etc, you can get a chart from the better ballistics programs that give you the distance to sight in for "point blank range". I think some of the better loading manuals have the same type of data but the print-outs are much nicer to have.
ray
X
XWrench2
Guest
i am VERY new here, so my opinion may not count for much. but my 2 cents worth are this. first, you said long range, but didnt mention how long. as a hunter in michigan, to me long range is 300 yards. to a person who hunts in idaho, 500 yards is long range. to bench rest, long range may very well be 1000 yards. the 300 win mag is certainly capable of 1000 yard shots. if that is what you are going to shoot, that is where you should zero. if you want to shoot multiple long range distances, then that is a whole different ball game. do you have a mil dot scope, if so, you may be able to use the dots to set up for different ranges. it looks to me like the guys here will need a little more information in order to help you out better.
F
Flouncer
Guest
F
frwillia
Guest
Not nearly enough information given. The answers to that question are so different for target shooting and hunting, and for the game being hunted (I know a guy that hunts ground hogs with a .300 WinMAG using 110g V-Max bullets - nothing left but teeth and tail).
I zero all my hunting rifles at the distance that gives me the longest point blank range for the game in question based on the diameter of the vital zone on the animal. Ground hog rifles are zeroed assuming a 1-1/2" diameter target zone (3/4" radius) on the animal. Coyote rifle for a 3" circle. My deer rifle is zeroed based on a 6" vital circle. Most of my shots have been within the point blank range of the rifle. Zeroed like this, when I set up I can scan the field of fire with my laser rangefinder and know the boundries within which I can just place the cross hairs on the vital zone and squeeze.
Playing with my ballistic SW (I use QuickLoad and QuickTarget Unlimited) I can set up rules of thumb for where to hold on the animal at various ranges beyond the point blank range. Living in PA I've seldom had to shoot farther than that.
Then, for big game, deer size and up, there are scopes with bullet drop reticles. The Leupold on my .30-06 works if I zero it at 200 yards with a 150g bullet. Then I can use the dots on the reticle for hold over.
For target shooting, like at ground hog matches, I make a table of settings that will zero the rifle for the known distance of the targets planned, use that to get on the spotting target, and make adjustments from there. (I don't know why they call it a ground hog match - no ground hog I've ever seen will stand still for spotting rounds - hitting real ground hogs at 500 yards is more challenging - heck, just seeing them to begin with is a challenge).
If I were in an area where I was hunting at distances beyond 500 yards I'd go with a scope that responded predictably to the elevation and windage knobs every time, then work out the settings to zero it at the distance the rangefinder indicated.
Fitch
I zero all my hunting rifles at the distance that gives me the longest point blank range for the game in question based on the diameter of the vital zone on the animal. Ground hog rifles are zeroed assuming a 1-1/2" diameter target zone (3/4" radius) on the animal. Coyote rifle for a 3" circle. My deer rifle is zeroed based on a 6" vital circle. Most of my shots have been within the point blank range of the rifle. Zeroed like this, when I set up I can scan the field of fire with my laser rangefinder and know the boundries within which I can just place the cross hairs on the vital zone and squeeze.
Playing with my ballistic SW (I use QuickLoad and QuickTarget Unlimited) I can set up rules of thumb for where to hold on the animal at various ranges beyond the point blank range. Living in PA I've seldom had to shoot farther than that.
Then, for big game, deer size and up, there are scopes with bullet drop reticles. The Leupold on my .30-06 works if I zero it at 200 yards with a 150g bullet. Then I can use the dots on the reticle for hold over.
For target shooting, like at ground hog matches, I make a table of settings that will zero the rifle for the known distance of the targets planned, use that to get on the spotting target, and make adjustments from there. (I don't know why they call it a ground hog match - no ground hog I've ever seen will stand still for spotting rounds - hitting real ground hogs at 500 yards is more challenging - heck, just seeing them to begin with is a challenge).
If I were in an area where I was hunting at distances beyond 500 yards I'd go with a scope that responded predictably to the elevation and windage knobs every time, then work out the settings to zero it at the distance the rangefinder indicated.
Fitch
L
Louis Boyd
Guest
There are good arguments for different approaches.
1. Use a "point blank" range. That is the distance where if you aim dead on the target you'shot will hit wthin an acceptably sized circle you select out some maximimum range determined by your rilfe's ballistics. The point blank range is typicaly about 80% of that maximum range. Many ballistic programs calcualate the point blank range. You rifle will be instantly ready for moderate distance shots. Point blank range can around 300 yards for some flat shooting rifles lke a 7mm STW. You hold-over or knob twiddle only for longer shots. Poiint blank zeros work well for large game in wooded terrain. Also for typical infantry use.
2. Use a range that you most expect to encounter and shoot game. It minimizes the knob twidding and holdovers. It's most useful for open prarie hunting and some forms of sniping. It should not be so far that shots won't be reliable. 400 to 600 yards is reasonable.
3. For target shooting at multiple distance pick one of the target distances. For silhouette that might be 200 or 500 yards. For benchest 100, 200, 1000 as appropriate.
4. Just zero it for where you have a target laid out at an accurately know distance. Getting the distance wrong when you zero will screw everything up. You can set any of the above from any accurately known target if the rifles ballistcs are known.
Which is best?
The one that's apprpriate for your rifle, terrain, and target.
The one you practice with and understand thoroughly.
1. Use a "point blank" range. That is the distance where if you aim dead on the target you'shot will hit wthin an acceptably sized circle you select out some maximimum range determined by your rilfe's ballistics. The point blank range is typicaly about 80% of that maximum range. Many ballistic programs calcualate the point blank range. You rifle will be instantly ready for moderate distance shots. Point blank range can around 300 yards for some flat shooting rifles lke a 7mm STW. You hold-over or knob twiddle only for longer shots. Poiint blank zeros work well for large game in wooded terrain. Also for typical infantry use.
2. Use a range that you most expect to encounter and shoot game. It minimizes the knob twidding and holdovers. It's most useful for open prarie hunting and some forms of sniping. It should not be so far that shots won't be reliable. 400 to 600 yards is reasonable.
3. For target shooting at multiple distance pick one of the target distances. For silhouette that might be 200 or 500 yards. For benchest 100, 200, 1000 as appropriate.
4. Just zero it for where you have a target laid out at an accurately know distance. Getting the distance wrong when you zero will screw everything up. You can set any of the above from any accurately known target if the rifles ballistcs are known.
Which is best?
The one that's apprpriate for your rifle, terrain, and target.
The one you practice with and understand thoroughly.
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