winchester extractor cuts

K

KenG

Guest
What's the best way to make the extractor cut on a Winchester for the controller round feed action. I don't work on Winchesters much so I don't want to spend a bunch of money on a special bit for my mill.
 
I thought about this a lot and came up with the following. I set my barrel in the mill vise in vee block jaws (any way to clamp will work fine). I then screw the receiver on hand tight (don't crank it down just butt it up to the shoulder). Going off of the bottom rails starting with them parallel to the table rotate the barrel and receiver assembly counter clockwise 17 deg and tighten down. Remove the receiver and cut the slot. I use a ptg cutter and I have the x & y coordinates wrote down. 17 deg seems about right too me to get the barrel tight and line up the slot. You can go a degree either way and experiment yourself. Doing it this way I can have the slot cut in about 15 min.
 
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The old fashioned way is to locate it where you want it, use a hacksaw and files... maybe a hand grinder with a small diameter cut off wheel too... That's how I have had to do them for ever...
 
I use the PTG cutter also. It works pretty well. I torque the barrel on with Dykeem layout blue on the face of the shank and scribe the right side w/ a flat edge scribe. Then pull it off, put in a v-block in the mill, and cut it. I don't cut fully with the cutter, and then finish it off with hand files, dremel, cut-off wheels, etc as mentioned above.
 
How much are those PTG cutters? The hand way with a hacksaw and files is probably the route I'll take though. Thanks for the good info.
 
IMHO the better way to do it is to have all the work done before doing the extractor cut, namely the chamber and forcing cone work. I then put it on the action and tighten it in the barrel vise. I then use a tool I made from a piece of half-inch drill rod milled to fit the bolt lug raceway and with a half round cut in the end, hardened and sharpened. Insert the piece into the lug raceway and tap it on the end to leave a witness mark on the end of the barrel for the cut. I then put it in the milling machine and use the JGS cutter to line it up and cut the slot. I have the measurements for the cut recorded on a print and use the centerline of the threads and barrel shoulder for reference; zero them out and move the required amount and you are good to go. Not to open up a bag of worms, but if anyone wants a copy of the print, email me.

Jim
 
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