Wilson stainless dies question

R

redspider

Guest
I am having my two new barrels done..one will be a 6.5 x 47 and the second one will be a 6.5 x 284 using Lapua brass and both will be for a tight neck chamber. I want to use the stainless steel Micro bullet seaters and neck dies but want to have it reamed out by the same reamers that my barrels will be chambered for. I have spoken to Dwight who will be doing the chambering and since Wilson will not sell me stainless blanks I am stuck with eather using there steel dies or a smaller caliber in the Stainless dies and have Dwight ream.

Witch dies in the wilson list of stainless will work.Both the 6.5 x 47 and 6.5 x 284 they have will be to big to ream out...will the 243 dies work?
 
OK, I'm wading out into a thin branch here cuz I've not actually done what you're attempting to do BUT.... were it me, and were Dwight to be comfortable starting with a 6MM die like your example of the .243, then I'd buy a 6BR die for the 6.5X47L and maybe yes the .243 die for the 6.5X284
 
alinwa said:
OK, I'm wading out into a thin branch here cuz I've not actually done what you're attempting to do BUT.... were it me, and were Dwight to be comfortable starting with a 6MM die like your example of the .243, then I'd buy a 6BR die for the 6.5X47L and maybe yes the .243 die for the 6.5X284
Click to expand...

Thanks Alinwa...I know what you mean do to the dies that they do have in stainless i have little choice.I would rather buy the 243 and 6BR dies for sure and will call Dwight before i do buy them. wont the 243 dies be short for the 284?
 
Now ya' got me thinkin'....... and of course if you're right then the 6BR's too short for the 6.5X47L also....
 
Basically I was entirely off on the wrong track if you want to bottom the dies out.

Your idea on the other hand looks sound to me...... for the 6.5X47L.

But, I think you're right, the 284's too long. You could make a spacer for the bottom, but then I think the neck portion of the button die may STILL be too short but that's kinda' iffie considering the differences in shoulder angles and diameters....

I'll just ease back out now, I spake too soon, I'll have to think about this a little more.
sorry
al
 
It's an exercise that sounds great, really great, but has no value. Your rifle will not shoot better no matter how close your dies fit the chamber.

That said, I know you're gonna do it anyways so good luck.
 
Couple of thoughts:

1. Use the standard dies and blue them. Brownell's cold blue works just fine.

2. As far as I'm concerned, the best alignment -- centering, which is all you care about -- of the case in the seater comes from the shoulder, not the case sides. Therefore, have the case head either flush, or a tiny bit proud of the bottom of the die, so the shoulde makes contact with the die. Yes, I know that puts the primer at risk. You should always use the bottom piece anyhow.

As far as Wilbur's comment, I'd say it's true either all the time, or a real big number out of just a bit bigger number. Believe several people showed that bullet runout (off-centeredness) can have an effect, shooting in a tunnel. Well, if it takes a tunnel, it can't matter much.

Which fits with the test Creighton Audette ran, shooting prone, outdoors. Same size groups, 20 shots each, where one set had the bullets physically pushed way off center. Prone, you say? 40 rounds & Creighton Audette, I say.

Then too, bullet off-centeredness can come from places other than the seating die...

Personally, I'd save the $100 & go with the 12L14 dies, which solves your problem.
 
Wilbur said:
It's an exercise that sounds great, really great, but has no value. Your rifle will not shoot better no matter how close your dies fit the chamber.

That said, I know you're gonna do it anyways so good luck.
Click to expand...

I had something happen at the Nationals that would not have happened with a seater die that fit the chamber. I was using a boat tail bullet and a Wilson stainless micrometer type 6 PPC seater along with a pretty full case of 133. When the boat tail bullet seated, it trapped a kernel of powder between the inside of the neck and the base of the bullet. This will not happen with a seating die cut with the reamer that cut the chamber. I had two cases that did this, neither one would chamber which doesn't help your concentration when you are trying to shoot a group. I switched to a seater die that was cut with the same reamer that cut the chamber. With the tighter neck on the seater, the only place the powder grains can go is below the bullet. That's one good reason to use a die cut with the reamer that cut the rifle's chamber. As to how one die or the other shoots, I can't tell the difference.
 
Wilbur said:
It's an exercise that sounds great, really great, but has no value. Your rifle will not shoot better no matter how close your dies fit the chamber.

That said, I know you're gonna do it anyways so good luck.
Click to expand...

YYYYeeeees... Listen to Wilbur... A Wilson blank and Mikes suggestion (post 9)... Works well.

cale
 
Mike - You're absolutely right in that respect. I once considered having a seater die made that wouldn't allow a loaded neck diameter greater than .261 to save me from the inevitable "here, try these" bullets that were a bit fat for my necks.
 
All good comments and makes sence. I thought about how much difference would it really make on both cases. Shooting my PPC and BR and loading technique it draws me to believe that I should stick with what I have been doing. Runout just scares me more then it should lol!!...I think I will try the Wilson hand dies first and if im not satisfied with the results I'll just have some threaded blanks done and just use my Hood press. Thank you for the info especially comming from some great shooters.
 
Why not just buy the Wilson cap and stem, and use a barrel drop or old barrel, which is stainless, and ream it with your chamber reamer? You could easily make a neck die using a piece of barrel as well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top