which level

M

macv

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Hi all, I am going to get a level to mount on my scope or base to help me with not "canting" before the shot. I see that there are about 3 or more different styles of levels available and what Im looking for are the pros and cons of these. I see that you have the ones that mount right on your scope. There is one that folds down when not in use, and then I see one that is offset that mounts to your base. I have never used anyone of these different types and am looking to see which are the most practical ones. Any hints about any of these would be very helpful to me. Thanks for looking in.
 
If you choose the rail-mount type level, be sure the scope tube will not contact the level gizmo (e.g. B-Square type) when you tighten the rings down. Otherwise, you'll dent your scope tube, and that's not good. Ask me how I know. :(
 
Guys, very good responds, and ideas. Sorry you had to find out the hard way Bill Ohio, oouch, that hurt. But a very good lesson to those others you might have done the same thing. Thanks.
On the level that is mounted right to the scope and offset, can you see the bubble while your head is on the stock without picking it up? The other level is also nice because it says that it pivots when not in use. Thats good too. However for me, at this time, I went with the Burris Sign. Z rings with a Weaver base and not the picitinny base. So for now, I think I might have to go with the offset level that fits on the scope tube. Both of those, from Sinclair and the Holland look very nice. Im sure either one is of good quality. Thanks for the ideas. Happy holidays.
 
+ 1 on the Sinclair model. It fits right where I want it.
 
gt40 said:
I uses the B-square attached to my Picatinny rail, but I will get this one to attach to my scope: http://www.horusvision.com/asli.php Thanks Tony Shankle. I never saw this one before. :):):)

"Aim small miss small", :D

gt40
Click to expand...

Once you figure out where exactly you like the Horus, tape the front side off and spray paint the back black (just leave the clear on the side you see). That will keep the glare down and it helps to be able to read the unit. Just a little trip to help!
 
Not sure if that question was for me but my answer is Camp Perry Prone, Tactical Matches, Extreme distance shooting, anything I can do off a bipod and that one or two benchrest matches I shoot each year were everyone looks at me like I am crazy. :D
 
Tony Shankle said:
I run dual levels, one is USO folder http://www.usoptics.com/accD.php?recordID=BBL-350 which is my primary and my secondary is the Horus ASLI http://www.horusvision.com/asli.php

In different situations or positions I can switch from one to the other and since one is base mounted and one is scope mounted I can use them to make sure all is in sync and nothing has moved.

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

How durable is the ASLI™ (Angle Slope Level Indicator) Kit? It looks like it is all plastic. Will it hold up to getting knocked around?

Do they have a replacement warranty if it gets broken?

gt40
 
I haven't broken any of mine and the thing I do with my rifles would make most benchresters request that I shred my IBS card. It is a tough unit. I have never had to reset any of mine. I don't know about the warranty but you can ask Horus.

Polymers can be tough, I once saw a glock blow a chamber and after replacing the slide and barrel the lower had returned to its original shape and it ran fine.
 
Thanks Tony for letting me (us) know that it can take a likken & keep on ticken. I'm going to wait until I get my new scope and lower mounting rings to see if I can get it to fit.

I really like the B-Square level that attaches to the Picatinny Rail. You can look at your target with one eye and look at the level with the other eye all at the same time. I have the fold down & the one that clamps around the scope tube, but like the rail mount better.

I am considering the Horus ASLI http://www.horusvision.com/asli.php because I want an angle slope indicator and the combined level adds some convenience to removing the scope and putting it back on and have a level attached to get the vertical cross hair back where it was.

Here are a couple pics:

"Aim small miss small", :D

gt40

PS: The first pic looks a little distorted, but it works very well.
 

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FBecigneul, the scope is going on a Rem. 40X in 308 cal. The type of shooting that I am doing is off the bench useing front rest and rear bag. Just recieved the scope the other day and my rings as well. Have not yet installed anything. Almost too cold to get out in the workshop which is in my gar. Present temp. is -8.
I'm not quite sure yet whether I will opt for the offset level or the one where the bubble sits right over the center of the scope. I have never used one before so this is why I'm not sure yet. Once I get the scope mounted and cheek the rifle, maybe that will help me make that decision. Not that this makes a difference to anything, but, the rifle sports an obermeyer brl. in SS and has a dia. at the muzzle of almost 15/16" and 25 1/2" long. 5R. 1-11. The 168 Sierra MK does a great job for me.
Thank you for your input and the knowledge of all the other shooters.
 
I was just given this site showing how to level it to the bore of your rifle not the taper of your barrel. It does not show the dowel inserted into the bore though.

http://imageevent.com/swat/scopealingment223

"Aim small miss small", :D

gt40

PS: I would imagine that if you have your level attached to your Picatinny flat rail and attach the HORUS slope to the scope and a level on top of the dowel in the barrel and have all 3 levels leveled it should work?

If my thinking is incorrect please explain.
 
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