Which Aftermarket Savage Trigger

S

STBE Harris

Guest
Have an old late 70's "short" action left hand Savage 110 J series reciever (The odd ball recvr bolt spacing) Keeping in mind that it is left hand what are the options for after market triggers. 2oz to 3lb ranges for adjustments, not necessary to have 1 lb or less but interested in all options. What are the problems examples can you keep your safety if you want, does it require wood or metal work, is it easy to install, does trigger have idiosyncracies like two stage, too much overtravel etc. I See Timmney, Basix, SS, others? Thnak you in advance for your help. STBE
 
Savage Trigger Options

If you are looking to work your trigger over, there are a few options.

I have personally shot with all the triggers you listed, and in my opinion there isn't a trigger that beats the Rifle Basix II. This trigger is fully adjustable, and will come with a DVD that will show you step-by-step instruction. I have it on my .308 and it is the best trigger that I have on any of my rifles!

The popular Savage trigger is the SSS one. Fred makes a great trigger! I have a few and I am pleased with all of them. For the money they are the way to go. Rumor has it that he has developed a new trigger called the "Evolution" (I believe that's what he's calling it). This new trigger of his would entail you sending in your action to be timed and trued due to the geometry of the trigger being specifically fitted to your action. He has told me that it will be down in the "couple of ounces" range. Only thing about it is that you will have to send your action off, and be without for quite some time.

The Timney trigger in my opinion is a joke! The older Savage triggers (probably like the one that you have on your rifle right now) are just as likely to be adjusted and lightened like the Timney triggers. The older Savage triggers can be worked down to a 1lb-2lb with little work if you would like to save money.

For a recap; The Rifle Basix II, or the SSS trigger. They may cost a little more but there is a reason. If you would rather not spend the cash, I would suggest working over the factory trigger. It can be done for cheap! I don't think you will run into too much problems as far as wood work, or anything else like that. The Rifle Basix II, and the SSS trigger (not the Evolution) will still allow you to use your safety on your gun. The newer SSS trigger will not!You may have to shoot and adjust, but that's the nature of the beast, you would likely do that with any trigger.

Sorry for such a long winded response. I'm a newbie on this forum, but I really enjoy my Savage rifles and saw an oppurtunity to put my "2 cents" in.

Hope you find what you're looking for.....
 
Hands down go with sharpshooter supply, Never gotten anything from fred that wasn't as described or BETTER!!!, I have one of the new 2oz triggers in a custom 30br for IBS and it's clean and crisp as any of my jewells, true it might take awhile to get BUT,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, well worth the wait & the $$

the wind is my friend,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

DD
 
30br???

David,

How is that 30BR shootin? Had it in competition against customs yet? I am on Fred's list, as I had been for a while, but still haven't gotten the call yet. I just got a used 30BR on a 112. Why a LA? That's what the package was and I think it was a good deal. Only the range will tell. I debated about going ahead and buying a custom action, but I have too much to learn about competition level reloading and reading the wind....

Thanks, tiny
 
shooting good, been working small issues out,(load, bags,table manners etc,) prob make first IBS match later this month with it, gun will do it's part, the rest is up to me, stay in touch
 
I've got an old 112V with the J action and got the trigger pull down to about 1.5 lb or less simply by replacing the trigger return spring. It's a piece of straight wire with a short section bent at 90°. Measure the factory spring's diameter, and replace it with a smaller diameter wire.

Most model shops that sell power model aircraft have music wire in sizes from way to small to way too large. You can likely buy 3' pieces of the two or three sizes smaller than the one in the rifle and give them a try. It will be less expensive than a new trigger, will work as well, and only cost $5 or less - assuming you have some wire cutting pliers. :D You'll have to adjust the safety (screws on the rear of the trigger piece under the tang) and overtravel screws too.

The newer triggers use a similar spring, but the leverage or something has been changed so that using a lighter spring doesn't work.

I've since installed an SSS trigger with a pull less than a lb.
 
Savage Trigger++Accuracy?

Let me tell you'all about this project. I completed the same thing a couple years ago with the same type set up 110 lefty J sereis in a Boyds Laminate varmint stock in a 223 after a lot of load development and rebedding it came around and is now a favorite of mine even though I have several Blue printed reworked 700's and a custom rifle. I love doing this with as much of my own work as possible. This 2nd one has a semi custom barrel in 6BR with a neck that is .270 1:10 twist CM. I wanted to shoot up some old 87-100 grain bullets I have from a while back and shoot a bunch of some older 70 Sierra match. I set the headspace and put a .250 lug and had the barrel thread cut to accept this. It is in a bedded wood stock with a 2 3/4 wide forend. Bedding went well this time..........The first 223 Savage took me 3or 4rebeds before I liked it. It now has about 160 rounds through it. I have read some older books on the Savage trigger and how to adjust it. I did this to this trigger many many moons ago. If I remember right it involved bending the factory trigger return spring, and adjusting the sear contacts by using the adjusting bolt and nut. No honing of surfaces or heating of the springs was done. The trigger is terrible it fails to catch the sear and has to be recocked. Lot of sideways slop. I dont dare mess with the loaded rifle unless pointed in safe direction as I am afraid the trigger will almost catch and drop and fire. The trigger pull is very irratic sometimes 3 1/2 plus pounds sometimes almost a hair trigger. It is causing flyers. As of now it has a .813 average with 3 bullet brands mentioned above and two powders Varg and Imr4895 205m primers 6 shot groups throwing out the flyer of 6. (this to allow for the cleaning regime I am using after a 10 bullet shoot and clean break in.) It is now shooting irratic mostly diagonal verticle grps some two grps in one (trigger doing this?). Anyway I like the idea of Larry about making a spring. I think the bent spring may not be exerting enough continuous force while the bolt is cocked to catch the sear at all or is catching it at different points along the sear trigger surface making it irratic. From what I read so far SS trigger and Basix are preffered after market triggers although would like to keep price of this project down. Any further ideas to help accuracy? Thanks for your comments. STBE
 
There's obviously something amiss with that rifle's trigger. It could probably be sorted out with shims and fiddling. I've never heard of bending the factory trigger return spring, but that sounds like it might be part of the problem. As I remember I replaced the factory spring in my J actioned 112V with 0.06" music wire (less than $1 for 3') since the factory spring was 0.08" or 0.09". That rifle was perfectly safe after the safety, overtravel and sear engagement were adjusted. If that doesn't work on your's I'd order an SSS trigger, install it per instructions, and worry no more.
 
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