What Type Of Locktite?
- Thread starter billt
- Start date
Boss Hoss 540
New member
This is the way I do it and the way that it was done by Speedy at SG&Y as we have both found that lock tite fails way too often =
First use steel 000 steel wool and acetone and rough the contact area of the receiver and then do the same to the contact area of the base.
Use a cotton ball with acetone to clean any residual off of the receiver contact area and the base or bases. Set aside the base and be careful not to touch the clean areas. Use a little paste wax on the tip of a toothpick to apply into the threaded areas on the receiver. Apply a very thin layer to the screw threads and to the bottom half of the screw head. Set screws on a clean shop towel -- you get the idea.
Now use JB Weld because it can be heated and removed easier should you want to remove this later on. Mix it and use just a little die if you have it to more closely match the color of the bases and receiver. After mixing on you little piece of cardboard or index card set aside for a few minutes.
Get your propane torch and heat the contact area of the receiver and the contact area of the bases just enough to bring out any moisture that may be present on the surface. When the bases and receiver have cooled back to less than 100 degrees (this will not take long because you did not heat them up that much) using the toothpick that you used to mix the JB put a small amount on the receiver mating surface and on the base mating surface. Don't worry about it oozing now carefully place the bases lining up the screw holes as closely as possible and gingerly set the base on the receiver---immediately place the screws in the holes and get all of them started a few turns.
Now that the screws are started give a turn to one and move to the next screw. Repeat process until they are all snug then tighten each one to its final tension. This is important-----DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. We do not want all of the epoxy to be completely squeezed out.
Now leave the rifle in the vise and let sit for 5 minutes or so (I use rubber inserts so that the barrel can be clamped in) and get your capful of WD 40, cotton balls and Q-tips. First use dry q tips to remove most of the excess then take a cotton ball and dip a small portion in the WD 40 and very gingerly wipe down the areas you just removed the excess JB. You will notice that it comes of very easy but make sure not to press to hard on the edges where the base and receiver meet we don’t want to disturb that line.
Use the q tip or the tip of a toothpick with WD 40 on it to clean out any of the epoxy that migrated through the top of the screw holes an also into the openings of any of the screws.
Now look at the underside of the bases where any excess JB could have migrated into the opening of the receiver or just on top of the receiver for example. Note where a one piece base is used it likes to hide underneath. For this area use the q tip with some WD 40 applied to remove.
Now go off and have lunch about an hour and use the q tips soaked with WD 40 to smooth (gently) the lines where the base and receiver meet. If you have done everything correctly it should look like one piece of metal!!!
In 24 hours or 6 using a light to position over the bases to heat them you are ready to mount your scope.
A final note here make sure to pre fit everything because it will really suck if you find out a base screw is too long and the rifle will not operate!!!
__________________
NRA Life Member And "Low Fencer"
First use steel 000 steel wool and acetone and rough the contact area of the receiver and then do the same to the contact area of the base.
Use a cotton ball with acetone to clean any residual off of the receiver contact area and the base or bases. Set aside the base and be careful not to touch the clean areas. Use a little paste wax on the tip of a toothpick to apply into the threaded areas on the receiver. Apply a very thin layer to the screw threads and to the bottom half of the screw head. Set screws on a clean shop towel -- you get the idea.
Now use JB Weld because it can be heated and removed easier should you want to remove this later on. Mix it and use just a little die if you have it to more closely match the color of the bases and receiver. After mixing on you little piece of cardboard or index card set aside for a few minutes.
Get your propane torch and heat the contact area of the receiver and the contact area of the bases just enough to bring out any moisture that may be present on the surface. When the bases and receiver have cooled back to less than 100 degrees (this will not take long because you did not heat them up that much) using the toothpick that you used to mix the JB put a small amount on the receiver mating surface and on the base mating surface. Don't worry about it oozing now carefully place the bases lining up the screw holes as closely as possible and gingerly set the base on the receiver---immediately place the screws in the holes and get all of them started a few turns.
Now that the screws are started give a turn to one and move to the next screw. Repeat process until they are all snug then tighten each one to its final tension. This is important-----DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. We do not want all of the epoxy to be completely squeezed out.
Now leave the rifle in the vise and let sit for 5 minutes or so (I use rubber inserts so that the barrel can be clamped in) and get your capful of WD 40, cotton balls and Q-tips. First use dry q tips to remove most of the excess then take a cotton ball and dip a small portion in the WD 40 and very gingerly wipe down the areas you just removed the excess JB. You will notice that it comes of very easy but make sure not to press to hard on the edges where the base and receiver meet we don’t want to disturb that line.
Use the q tip or the tip of a toothpick with WD 40 on it to clean out any of the epoxy that migrated through the top of the screw holes an also into the openings of any of the screws.
Now look at the underside of the bases where any excess JB could have migrated into the opening of the receiver or just on top of the receiver for example. Note where a one piece base is used it likes to hide underneath. For this area use the q tip with some WD 40 applied to remove.
Now go off and have lunch about an hour and use the q tips soaked with WD 40 to smooth (gently) the lines where the base and receiver meet. If you have done everything correctly it should look like one piece of metal!!!
In 24 hours or 6 using a light to position over the bases to heat them you are ready to mount your scope.
A final note here make sure to pre fit everything because it will really suck if you find out a base screw is too long and the rifle will not operate!!!
__________________
NRA Life Member And "Low Fencer"
Blue 242 is what I use.
C
chuck furniss
Guest
+1 on the blue loctite.Degrese the screws and the threaded hole first.
Chuck..
Chuck..
Locktite, is it a cure or curse...
I have tried all the locktite products and used all the degreasers mentioned and more. I have as a gunsmith removed more than my share of broken screws. For years I have switched to clear enamal fingernail because it could be removed easily with the aide of a soldering iron.
After talking to a mechanical engineer who's company makes screws and reading the Machinest Handbook, I have switched my technique to using high temperature grease on both the threads and the back of the screw head. I use a torque wrench religiously on small screws like the ones on scope rings and bases. I have not had any problems with screws backing out, breaking or removing them later.
Keep using that locktite. I can almost make a living on removing broken screws.
Rustystud
I have tried all the locktite products and used all the degreasers mentioned and more. I have as a gunsmith removed more than my share of broken screws. For years I have switched to clear enamal fingernail because it could be removed easily with the aide of a soldering iron.
After talking to a mechanical engineer who's company makes screws and reading the Machinest Handbook, I have switched my technique to using high temperature grease on both the threads and the back of the screw head. I use a torque wrench religiously on small screws like the ones on scope rings and bases. I have not had any problems with screws backing out, breaking or removing them later.
Keep using that locktite. I can almost make a living on removing broken screws.
Rustystud
expiper
Broken down Plumber
Use Loctite brand "NEVER SEIZE"...
I guess I musta spent too much time assembling and dis-assemblin steam and chemical lines and parts...I kinda think the trick to gettin things tite is to lube the threads properly and torque the threads properly and they will stay together no matter what the temp or load untill there is enuff impact or pressure to break the bolt .....ooo and if u ever want to remove the part ....just un-torque it......I have nevr had a scope base/ring/mount/etc shake loose....(and I'v put on a bunch of em)....Roger
I guess I musta spent too much time assembling and dis-assemblin steam and chemical lines and parts...I kinda think the trick to gettin things tite is to lube the threads properly and torque the threads properly and they will stay together no matter what the temp or load untill there is enuff impact or pressure to break the bolt .....ooo and if u ever want to remove the part ....just un-torque it......I have nevr had a scope base/ring/mount/etc shake loose....(and I'v put on a bunch of em)....Roger
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If I recall correctly, purple Lock-tite is used by race engine builders to keep studs from coming loose without the application of fairly extreme heat. In other words they don't want them ever coming loose. I think the purple would be a poor choice on a firearm.
There have been several good suggestions, but I will mention an additional use. Some screws, especially small ones such as on certain triggers, have a habit of not staying put, but are not really subjected to a lot of stress. You can either use some fingernail polish, because it is easy to break loose when you need to readjust it or take the screw(s) out and "paint" them with blue lock-tite, allow it to air dry and then repeating the process several times. This should build up enough of a coating that the fit of the loose screw will be tighter when reinstalled even though it is not actually glued in place.
There have been several good suggestions, but I will mention an additional use. Some screws, especially small ones such as on certain triggers, have a habit of not staying put, but are not really subjected to a lot of stress. You can either use some fingernail polish, because it is easy to break loose when you need to readjust it or take the screw(s) out and "paint" them with blue lock-tite, allow it to air dry and then repeating the process several times. This should build up enough of a coating that the fit of the loose screw will be tighter when reinstalled even though it is not actually glued in place.
