Joe,
Do you have any pics of the engraving done with the center drills?
Did you rotate or just drag the cutter on the barrel?
I have a very good condition motorized version “Old” New Hermes engraver with the diamond and rotary carbide cutters.
On barrels - I like the extra depth and use the carbide cutters but they are more burnished which don’t look bad after I bead blast the barrel.
I have tossed the idea around of silver soldering a 1/16” or 1/8” carbide endmill onto one of the broken carbide engravers to see if it made a clean cut.
Larry
How deep do you set the rotary carbide cutter? And a few more questions.
There seems to be an endless variety of "fonts" what is a good basic, easy to read,nice looking font? What does single or double line font refer to?
My pantagraph uses Diamond tiped cutters. I believe they are 120 degree cutters. I have never replaced the cutter. They cost about 15-20 dollars each. They make a very good letter on a glass beaded barrel. I thought about making a holder to hold a pencil type die grinder with a very fine pointed cutter.
I used a very very small carbide center drill on a Haas VF20. I used the graphics package from Gibbs CAM.
Is someone willing to post a picture of there setup and some examples, I'm thinking of getting one of these setups vs. the old stamp and pray it looks good method.
Hal,
Sorry for not replying earlier but it looks like the guys have pretty much said it all.
If my motor gives out on my New Hermes I will do like Rustystud suggested on the pencil type die grinder or even a small Dremel.
Here is a couple of pics of the fonts I use and this is the only pic I could find where I did both fonts on the same barrel.
This is one of my own barrels.
P.S. - I'm not a photographer as you can see.
I will post a pic of the engraver if I can find one.
How do you get an even engraving depth on a round surface like a rifle barrel? Seems the engraving would be more shallow on top and bottom of the letters because of the barrel radius.
I've got a gorton/Famco pantograph engraver which is just a powered unit. The cutters I have are the split carbide cutters. They all came to a sharp point that tended to dull and make lettering that was round bottomed and didn't look clean enough to my eye so I honed the tip off to create about a .010" flat on the bottom that had relief for the cutting edge. Now my lettering is great to my eye. Looks like a fine milling cut and doesn't require any polishing or blasting to clean-up. Originally those cutters were designed for soft materials. The metal cutting ones generally have that small flat on them. You can learn a lot about the different cutters by taking a look at the following website.