What target to start shooting?

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I am new to the medium distance shooting, and I wondered what type of targets do I need to be shooting at?

I shoot exclusively at 100-300 yards at the moment. I use a normal piece of copy paper and place 1/2" to 1" dots on them now. The scope I use is a Nikon Monarch 6.5 - 20x44mm. I have several guns made to shoot 600 yards, and I am just now starting to take advantage of them. Should I just start out with poster board, and paint a dot on it, or do I get those 4' square targets now with the rings?

Next month I will be making my first trip to a place where I can work up to 600 yards. My plans are to load 300 rounds for each gun, and start at 300 yards (since I already know my zero there). I will move the targets back 25 yards at a time to record the flight of the bullet, and chart each gun (this holds another question... am I doing this right too?)

By the time I get out to 600 yards, I have a feeling my old eyes will not be able to see much, so at what distance do I start getting a bigger "dot" to hold on too? Is there a guide line for this stuff.... Like 300 yards = 3" dot? 400 yards = 4" dot? and so forth????
 
Using the 1moa aiming dot sounds like a workable plan.

Make the outline of the dot thin enough that you can see bullet holes in it.

carry on


al
 
Go to Rick Graham's web site and you can download some benchrest practice targets.
Print them out on card stock, not typing paper. The card stock doesn't tear like typing paper will. You can find Rick's web site under 'Wind Flags' in the Benchrest Central list of suppliers on the home page.
 
If you are going to use card stock, don't use white, esp. a "hard" white. Any mirage will eat you up.

I work with my 1,000 yard rifles at 100 yards, and use a tall but narrow sheet of coroplast so I don't have to change the scope settings.

A 5-foot high sheet might take you from 300 yards to 600 yards without changing your 300 yard setting, if that is of any interest to you.

Coroplast will take a large number of shots before becoming useless. A 1-MOA aiming point might be a bit big; depends on your scope.

The thin scoring rings Al mentions are good for seeing any bullet holes that might hit them, but less good for just seeing, period. Best is to use thin-ringed bull on, say, a yellow paper; use the rings for sighting if you can see them, use the colored circle for sighting if you can't see the rings. Staple the colored bull to the coroplast sheet & you're in business.
 
Ok.... forgive me.... If I use the coroplast (do I get black? or yellow so I can see the holes?) do I just staple the paper on top of it or place my "DOTS" right on it? I would like to be able to keep my targets to measure, and (hopefully if I can get them to group) show them off. Or do I just buy plenty of sheets of coroplast, and just use that as my "paper target"?
 
For what it is worth -- there are many ways to go with this -- I just staple my target to the coroplast, and the coroplast to a frame at our range. Actually, one staple in each corner of the target does it all.

With coroplast, I use the white. A light yellow might be better, but there seems to be enough ripple in the surface to keep everthing from floating too bad, even with white. Not true of card stock.

The whole notion of a long sheet of coroplast is that if you miss the target, it is usually low, and you can see your shot. Cardboard would work too, but it is harder for me to see shots in brown cardboard, and it doesn't last as long.
 
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