What rig are you shooting?

S

sendero300

Guest
I am now planning to build a official F-class rifle. Im looking for ieas and want to know what action, stock, barrel people are shooting. Not looking for any of your super top secret tricks, just platform ideas. Like why you would choose what you do.
 
What distance are you intending to shoot. From my perspective it matters a great deal in what to recomment. There is no need for a 7SAUM, 7/300WSM, 7WSM, or .284 if you are only going to shoot 600 yards or shorter.

For mid range distances (600 yards and below), the 6BR, 6XC, 6x47L, .260, 6.5x47L etc are fine and do not beat you up.

JeffVN
 
Well i shoot 600 or less. Just no ranges around here longer. But if i get a little better i wouldnt mind traveling some for comps. Im ussually in the top 4 when i shoot. But, the main reason i am planning to build a rifle is because my 300 win uses a lot of powder, has more recoil, and is more tiring than smaller calibers. Also my rifle is a .5 moa rifle at best, and I need a little better than that, mostly in the long strings. Our range likes to shoot all 65 rounds in one hour. Just a single leg to keep down on lost time going to the pits and back. So im thinking 260, 6br or something, but i dont want to do a lot of case work.
 
What rig?

I'm using a Remington 700 in 6 mm Competition Match (see this website for further info). The bolt has been trued and the stock was changed to an H.S. Precision benchrest stock. Sako extractor was added and ejector was removed. A Jewell benchrest trigger was added, as well as a bolt stop, and the safety removed. A plate was cemented in base of the action to convert it so single shot. Barrel is 30" Satern and action is skim-beded to stock. Also mounted a EGW scope mount (20 MOA) with extended front for prone use with Nightforce Benchrest scope in 12-42x56mm.

These changes were made over approximately three years after starting with a Remington 700 PSS in .308 with a Harris bi-pod.

The rig works very well for me in F-Class Open with a Sinclair tripod front rest. Like you, 600 yds., is the best we're going to get in South Jersey. At 100 yds., I've shot five-shot groups of 0.21". Obviously, your milage may vary. Just keep it in mind that you don't have to do everything at once.;)

--Dave
 
I would agree with you as the 7WSM is about as much as I can tolerate as far as recoil over the course of a 67-75 round day.

If 600 yards were my maximum range and I didn't want to do any brass work, I'd be inclined to look at the:
.243 or 6BR for 6mm,
6.5x47L, 6XC , or .260 for 6.5mm,
the 7-08 for 7mm.

All of my suggestions have less recoil than a 308 shooting a 175 smk, hold a lot less wind than the .308 at 600 yards and consume about the same amount of gun powder. Personally I went 6x47L for my mid-range F-Class rig (600 yard), but I'm doing some brass work to make it happen.

JeffVN
 
Well, I really like the 260 shooting VLD's. almost matches my 300 with 210s, but i shoot kinda on the hot side(not for velocity, but for accuracy. its just were i get the best groups, and no signs of pressure). And I hand load for everything I shoot but pistol, just dont want a lot of fuss or $1 a peice cases. The biggest problem with my 300 is if i shoot a round a minute for 20 minutes my groups start to open. I dont know why(I can assume because of fouling, and also the barrel is to hot to touch to) but i thought it was me, so I shoot 20, then passed it to my spotter and had him shoot 5 rounds, and the group vertically strung about 3". He's a better shot than me to. But mostly im tired of the guys beating me at 300 with 223's. I figure less recoil will make better practice and a custom built gun will make better groups anyway.
 
Sendero,
Have you considered a savage? I was a proud remington 700 man and then got the opportunity to purchase a HS Precision rifle for elk hunting. It opened my eyes to accuracy and this got me researching a little. I now have two savage long range 22-250. 1 has the 1:9 twist barrel. Both of them with only the investment of a comp dies and case trimmer puts a 1 hole grouping out to 400. I am not the best shooter and have a lot to relearn/ learn for the first time but even I can shoot out to 400. The weapon comes with a decent barrel... great action.. and what I consider as a B+ to A- trigger. It also comes with the HS stock. For 1300.00 +150 (lapping the lugs) you now have what others pay 3000.00 for and when the anti 22-250 or 6.5 X 284 people complain about barrel wear...well the money is still in your pocket for a new one with left over for traveling expenses.
 
This is what I did.


It was built by Kevin Rayhill at Stockade Gun Stocks. http://www.stockadegunstocks.com/

I had Brux Barrels send a 6mm barrel blank directly to Kevin. At the same time I sent my Coplan hard rifle case with a Savage Target action with the left load port and right eject bolt with the target accu-trigger.

I had Kevin turn the contour, bore the chamber for .271 no neck turn 6mm Norma BR. so I can touch the lands with 107 gr. Berger & smaller to maybe 80 gr(?). He also threaded it and cut it to 26" and crown the end. I asked him not to blueprint the action to save a few nickels. Then he assembled everything into one of his Prairie Dog Special/Tactical stocks that he put a third pillar and glass bedded it for me. I asked him not to finish and paint the stock so I could save some more nickels. I had him add the rail under the forearm so the bipod could be adjustable. I also had the adjustable cheek piece added along with a flush mounted swivel stud added under the butt stock so it would slide on the rear bag better.

When I talked to him yesterday he told me that he shot 7 rounds using Varget and Berger 105 gr. Match VLDs at 100 yards. First two shots to get on the bullseye and then 5 shots for group size. This was never fired Lapua brass. He said I have a "HUMMER". The group measured .084". WOW!! :):)

To say the very least I am very excited. :D:D:D

I bought 4 cans of spray paint and will take before, during and after finished pictures of it and post them here for all to see. :)

"Aim small miss small", :D

gt40

PS: If I had gotten the action from him I would have saved more nickels too.
Total $1443.00 including shipping.
 

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Ive considered a savage action, a remmy action and a custom action. I really dont think a action makes much differnce if its blue printed...(Feel free to explain to me why otherwise, I really am here for knowlegd). I am thinking a remmy or savage action, HS Varmint stock, and broughton barrel. I dont know what smith to contact when im ready, but i got time. Right know money is so tight it squeks.
 
Thats something i'd like to know to. I see several companies have a actual "F-class" contour, but I am thinking something like a AMU contour my self, but shortened to 24". I dont think I would loose much velocity with that, but I could be wrong.
 
My new popgun.

This is the first picture since UPS delivered it to me. I am going to finish the stock myself. Looks like very little filling and sanding before I paint it. :)

gt40
 

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Most F-Class contour barrels are long and tree-trunk sized, as people want their rifle to be as heavy as possible within the rules. Weight reduces felt recoil; Length gives you higher velocity.

Open Class is approximately 22 lbs, and TR (limited to .308 and .223. must be fired off of a bipod) is roughly 18 lbs.

If you go 24" on your barrel - it seems that most F-Class rigs in either Houston where I lived until 2007 and Las Vegas and California where I live now tend to wear a 28-32" tube - you'll give up at least 100 fps to a similar rifle. No big thing if you are a wind reading wizzard. Most of the guys I shoot with prefer longer tubes and the higher velocities to reduce the needed wind hold. On Sunday we shot 600 mid-range and the wind was blowing a full-vlaue 15-20mph with fish tails and gusts... Typical enjoyment in the desert.

If you live or shoot in a wind sheltered range - I'm envious of your gifted life. :) I don't, and the wind is the biggest challenge in every match.

Either way, build what you want and shoot it til it dies then build another one. Getting people out to matches and keeping them engaged in the process is the key to keeping this sport alive and well.


JeffVN
 
The main place I shoot tends to be incredibley well. The wind can either blow at you or away from you, but straight either way. In high wind I'll break out my 300wm anyways. The more I think about it the more I like a 24" to 26" tube. It all depends on load to for velocity lose vs length. Several people have told me on the shorter more efficiant cartridges they tend to be at full speed by 22". My buddy had his 308 shortened from 26" to 20" and only lose 30fps, and his accuracy got a little better(its a BR rifle from the 80's, and its shot .3's, now its around .25" or less". What length does a 260 take to get to full speed with heavy VLD's?

GT40- I like it! The whole thing looks good.
 
Now im thinking a stockade woodchuck moneysave, possibley Remington action(I might have found a steel on one). I know the caliber, but I dont know the barrel company. I was thinking a Broughton 5C 1 in 8 or 1 in 9.
 
sendero300 said:
Now im thinking a stockade woodchuck moneysave, possibley Remington action(I might have found a steel on one). I know the caliber, but I dont know the barrel company. I was thinking a Broughton 5C 1 in 8 or 1 in 9.
Click to expand...

That Woodchuck stock looks like a good one. About 1/2 the weight of wood laminated stocks. :):):)

Got my barrel blank from Brux Barrels. :):):):):):):):) http://www.bruxbarrels.com/index.html

Talk to them. You will like what you hear. :):):)

gt40

A better picture of mine. http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=366263
 
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Make sure to post picks when your done GT40. I want to see it.
 
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