Velocity spread in handloads

C

Corn

Guest
Dear All,

Hello everybody, I’m new here in this forum but I’ve been shooting and reloading for several years already. I have a problem in reloading when in it comes to velocity consistency in hand loads. This might be bit long story but I try to tell accurately my reloading process. Gun that I’m using is AR15 with match grade LW st/st barrel.

Extreme velocity spread does differ a lot. One reload batch might be 80 fps and another 35fps. Standard deviation is hardly ever under 26 fps which my understanding should be 10 or less. Well, from my calculations 26 fps velocity extreme spread is only ~0.6 inch in vertical dimension @ 300 yards. So it only matters in theory, but I’m bit perfectionist and I’m bothered by the velocity spread.

Recently I bought tuning fork lab scale which is accurate to 0.015grain. I’ve tested to measure every load up to that accuracy but it didn’t make any differences. Well again my calculations show that the powder I use, 0.015 grain of it is in speed wise 2.6 fps. So it’s not the amount of powder that is the variable here. Anyhow that tuning fork scale is much much more convenient, accurate and faster when it comes to dynamical weighing than those using loadcell so money well spent (I guess).

Here’s how my reloading process goes. I select same manufacturer cases, mostly S&B and with same manufacturing year head stamp. Resize with Forster Benchrest FL die. Push shoulders back by 0.004”. Before I was using RCBS but changed to Forster as it claims to have free floating expander button and that it supports neck while expanding. I don’t have the equipment to measure the neck run out so can’t comment if this is true. Anyway, this shouldn’t affect the velocity spread nor does it? After resizing I trim the cases to length, ream the primer pocket with K&M primer pocket correction tool to set all with same depth. Uniform flash hole with Lyman flash hole uniformer. Chamfer case mouth by K&M tapered reamer. That’s about the case preparation.

I do the reloading by Dillon RL550B and next goes the primers and mostly I use CCI 400, gunpowder measured by hand, bullet seated with Forster micrometer seater die. Bullets that I use are Nosler CC 52 grain and Sierra Match King 69 grain.

I have tried to scale the brass but it didn’t do any differences to the velocity spread. I’m not turning the case necks so is there any other variable that I’m missing which could cause the velocity spread? I’ve read that these shouldn’t be crimped but came into my mind that could auto loader hit some of the bullets deeper to the case and this cause spread? This comes also to the not uniform case tension, so how could one be sure of that?

Ok, I’m happy with the grouping that I get currently with it which is ~0.7MOA up to 300 yards which is the maximum distance at the gun range I use. But like I said I’m bit perfectionist and try to improve wherever possible and this velocity spread bothers me.

Sorry for the long first post. Hope you could point me to right direction. Any help greatly appreciated.
 
what is a "Gun that I’m using is AR15 with match grade LW st/st barrel."
 
Chronograph is ProChrono Digital which is mounted on tripod approx. 10 feet from barrel. I also have Shooting Chrony but I don't use it anymore as it shows average 105 fps more than the prochrono. I haven't been able to prove which one is showing wrong figures, but I believe it's Chrony. Both chrono's show similar spread in velocities and their manufacturers claim both were calibrated in factory.
Gun is Oberland Arms OA-15 M1 HBAR
 
do you know what chamber it has, what twist, chromed line bbl ??
can you single load and get near the lands ??
do you have any new sorted brass ??

quit sizing the brass .004 and size to fit the chamber plus maybe 1/2 thou.
( i neck size only some of my brass in my ar's, so do not listen to people that repeat but have not done).
consider less neck sizing with a bushing and no pull thru button. about .003 will hold for semi auto, if single loading
even less)

my avatar is a three shot group from one of my ar-10's..it is a 0.157, my small is a 0.116.
 
Load combination (powder/bullet) and/ or gas port issues (size (dia) and or length). My first Les Baer 8 twist gave me fits until I found the right combo (powder burn rate matched to the gas tube length and port dia.). I generally use powders on the slower side (burn rate wise) for caliber and this didn't work at all in the LB. I settled on Benchmark for lighter(under 60gr) bullets and 8208 XBR for the heavier 75-80gr bullets.
 
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There's about a million things that can cause such variation. Hopefully you aren't facing but one. Keep on trying loads and if you can't resolve the issue doing that then it's time to get the rifle fixed. I don't think the chronograph is going to help but that's just me - I never owned one. There's some really good shooting ARs out there and you may as well have one! Keep in mind that all rifles can't be loaded to shoot well...just sayin'.
 
Corn,
I don't think your very far off for your gun. Here is some things to check and ponder.

1. Save rounds from a previous batch and check them the same time you check the new batch. Extreme spreads and deviations will change from day to day, especially in a AR. I bet you find they are closer than you think.

2. Cleanliness of the gun can make a significant swing in the same areas. Dirtier the bore...higher the velocities...which can lead to higher or lower ES/DS's.

3. Primers....try some milspec and/or standard Winchester's.

4. Are you crimping your bullets?

5. Unless your shooting this rifle A LOT ... start using a good single stage press.

6. Get a case run out tool (be careful which one you buy)....won't make difference in your SD/ES but it's nice to know and you can also check to see if your increasing your ammo runout when it is being stripped from the clip and feed into the chamber.

7. Get a bullet comparator. You can repeat seating depth and also check out seating depth variation between rounds. I like the Sinclair Nut. Cheap and easy.

8. What powder are you using?

9. Always make sure you clean and very lightly oil (synthetic motor oil) your buffer, buffer spring and inside of buffer tube...also, check your buffer tube air bleed hole in the butt...we used to open ours up just a little bit.

I'll stop there for now....but I want to say that an ES under 50 in your gun is not bad...

Hovis
 
i'll say i disagree with that number being acceptable.
but who knows with the unknown maker and bbl on your rifle.
i have never heard of the company..which means little.
most of my ar's have custom bbls on them.

the problem i see is you are trying to be super precise with an average or less bbl,
and expecting miracles

Corn,

I'll stop there for now....but I want to say that an ES under 50 in your gun is not bad...

Hovis
 
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Ar`s

Some challenges are fun.....but why spend time trying to get a machine that was not designed to be accurate to be.... accurate......?????.. an AR that will shoot .7 MOA.....is very well above average......
Besides.....Chronographs are notoriously touchy, not accurate or repeatable...... I own an Ohler 35P and a Magneto speed......either is about as good as the operator.....
OMHO....
 
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