B
Badmouser
Guest
Just fired my first few 6mm ppc at a target 50 yds. The holes in the paper indicate bullet tumbling. Where have I gone wrong?
Thanks
Thanks
Just fired my first few 6mm ppc at a target 50 yds. The holes in the paper indicate bullet tumbling. Where have I gone wrong? Thanks
Al, it is almost always a combination of factors, with the biggest culprits being heat and rate of twist. Tooley has done a fair bit of work on why bullets come apart, as has R.G. Robinett. Both got involved because of some long-range flat base bullets -- a 121-grain 6mm for Randy, a 140-grain 6.5 for Dave.I'm not sure that the cause of bullets coming apart is heat. Or to put it another way, IF it's heat then there's enough heat generated in even a short pistol bore to melt the lead.... witness this video http://uverseonline.att.net/tv/show/top-shot#play=ae___AE_253613_ASSET
IME bullets pop from over-rotation
al
Just fired my first few 6mm ppc at a target 50 yds. The holes in the paper indicate bullet tumbling. Where have I gone wrong?
Thanks
Al, it is almost always a combination of factors, with the biggest culprits being heat and rate of twist. Tooley has done a fair bit of work on why bullets come apart, as has R.G. Robinett. Both got involved because of some long-range flat base bullets -- a 121-grain 6mm for Randy, a 140-grain 6.5 for Dave.
In the case of the 140-grain 6.5's, we're pretty sure it was a problem with the jackets, though all that means is these long-shanked bullets (more heat from friction) in fast-twist barrels were stressed beyond what those particular jackets could take.
And not always, of course, Using a 9-twist 6.5/06 AI barrel, I got smallest group of the year at Hawks Ridge (1,000 yards) with those bullets in 2005. Beyond that one group, Dave, Steve Shelp and I got any number of match wins. And too many losses, where there were only 4 on. Dave set up a sheet of paper 15 feet in front of the muzzle, and you'd see where, periodically, molten lead hit, as well as the jacket -- or occasionally a couple pieces of the jacket. Switching to plywood, Dave even figured out where the bullets were coming apart -- just above the point where the shank merges into the ogive. And of course, that fits with Henry's calculations.
It was similar with the 121-grain 6mms, but Randy took a different path. He got them to stabilize in a 10-twist barrel, (Dasher) using that coating they now favor up there (something other than moly, but same general idea). Believe they were even able to get them to work in with a bigger case than the Dasher, same approach.
OK. I'm assuming with his 6PPC the OP isn't using a long-jacketed bullet, and it probably isn't, what, a 5-twist barrel? That's about what it would take with PPC case.
It *could* be defective jackets, but even here, they're usually good enough that problems don't show unless you're stressing them with both unusual heat & twist.
Can't really even begin to diagnose the OP's problem without more information. And best would be to be there, at the range, with a borescope...
Badmouser,
I had the same problem in my then-new Shilen DGV 8-twist, 4-groove 6BR. I started out with 87 grain V-maxes and THEY WOULD NOT SHOOT! I had key-holing and absolutely no accuracy. My best "group" at 100 yards was over an inch and a half! I finally got wise and switched to Berger 80 grain flat base match varmints and I now get better than 1/4 MOA consistently, and better if I really do my part. With the Bergers, my 6BR is pretty happy with loading into or out of the lands, and 27 +/- 1.2 grains of 8208-XBR.
So sum it up - try some different bullets to start and good luck!
Dennis
I had the same problem in my then-new Shilen DGV 8-twist, 4-groove 6BR. I started out with 87 grain V-maxes and THEY WOULD NOT SHOOT! I had key-holing and absolutely no accuracy
My best "group" at 100 yards was over an inch and a half!
6mm- 95 Gr. FB, BC-.45 : Made in Niemi carbide dies; 11 ogive/.052″ meplat; .2435 pressure-ring; .2433″ shank. Ideal twist: 1:10″ twist; works well in twist rates as fast as 1:8″.
6mm-104 Gr. BT, BC – .54 : Made in Niemi carbide dies; 11 ogive/.052″ meplat; .2433″ shank; 10 Deg. x .175″ BT. Ideal twist rate: 1:8.3″; twists faster than 1:8″ not recommended.
al,
I'm not sure what a "fat neck" chamber is. Mine is .270 for the Lapua blue box brass and a loaded round is right at .268, giving about 1 thou all around. Is that too "fat" and if so, why do the flat base Bergers shoot so well (for me anyway)?
Dennis
Charles,
After almost 200 rounds where the 87s were all over the paper - 3 or 4 inch "groups" - I ended up at 1.5 inches after trying EVERYTHING. Finally gave up and the 80s worked!
My 8-twist is a ratchet rifled 4 groove. It's a different animal and you should take a look at Shilen's site to see just how different. I'm just guessing - and it was suggested to me by another shooter - that the 87s didn't have enuf bearing surface.
Dennis