Tube gun glue in

P

PEI Rob

New member
For the guys that have them and build them, what is your preferred method for a MAK chassis tube gun? Round recoil lug with glue in or without the recoil lug? Perhaps with the lug and not glued in?

Cheers,
Rob
 
I used the recoil lug and I did not glue in the action. I simply could not get comfortable behind this type of stock...And I didn't want to damage the action by gluing it in...I sold the stock after a few months......

The barreled action I used was a blueprinted 700SA with a Kreiger and Jewell in 6BR........While in a pillar bedded Tooley MBR it shot in the high 2s low 3s......Won a bunch of Egg Shoots at 300 yds. In the MAK stock I couldn't get it under 1/2" with most groups in the .75 range. I think it had to do with the extreme top heavyness of the tube type action........

MAK004-vi.jpg
 
Thanks RoyB.

I found an article by German A. Salazar called "Equipment: Gluing In Tubegun Stocks". Thanks to Mr Salazar
 
Rob, I'd glue it in if you are using a Remington action. If you are using one of the custom Remington clone actions then you could probably screw it in. As hard as it is to get a stress free bedding job on a stocked rifle, I wouldn't expect the tube and the action to go together with screws only stress free. As long as the action slides into the tube easily, you should be able to use a dial indicator between the barrel and forend and check the action screws for stress in the machined bedding between the tube and the receiver. If you glue the action in, then there probably wouldn't be much point in using the recoil lug. It wouldn't be any different than the sleeved Remingtons that were popular in the late 70's and early 80's. If it was mine, I'd glue it in without the barrel attached making sure not to have any epoxy on the receiver face or anywhere else it shouldn't be. Once the epoxy sets up, then I'd screw the barrel in and tighten it. I'd probably pay more attention to German's article than to me though as he has more experience with tube guns than I do.

After I posted this, I read German's article on 6mmbr.com. It looked like the way to go to me. I saw he used a sporter weight barrel and a release agent coated recoil lug to position the action while the epoxy cured. I'd hold the barrel in a barrel vise while the epoxy was curing with the action and sleeve hanging. Gluing in with the recoil lug and old barrel will help make sure that no epoxy gets in where it shouldn't. Either way will work whether with a barrel or without, but is probably easier with the barrel.
 
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