Threading a .22LR Ballard Rifle Barrel

S

sabre85rdj

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I've got an old Marlin Ballard falliing block action I'm wanting to rebarrel. I'm planning to fit a GM barrel with an OAL of 24 inches and I'm machining it on a LeBlond 19 inch gear head lathe. I have a small problem. According to everything I've read, I should support the barrel as close to the breech as I can in my 4 jaw using something like 1/4 in. copper wire and the other end should be supported with a spider at the end of my spindle to avoid bending or stresing the barrel and then center both ends to the bore to within a tenth or so. My barrel blank is 27 inches long and the spindle is 37 inches long so I can't machine it in the way I'd like. I can turn it between centers but will I get the same precision? I don't see anyway to dial in the muzzle end of the barrel besides relying on the center to provide the alignment. I'll have to use a drive dog on the muzzle end of the barrel and use a steady rest on the breech end of the barrel to steady the barrel while I thread the barrel. This won't be as ridged as chucking up the barrel, but I can't see any other way to do it. I'd welcome any comments or suggestions.
 
What you seem to be referring to may be the "Gordy Gritters Method" of rebarreling, definitely something similar...... this method is fairly new and poorly regarded by many traditionalists.

I've used several methods.

I was taught the traditional way in gunsmithing school and currently use a method that in some ways resembles your description.

Most people in your situation will drive the muzzle end using either a lathe dog/faceplat assy or the 4-jaw, dialing the od to center. Outboard end, where all the work is done, will be supported in a steady rest. Typically this end is dialed in on the id using the longest/bestest indicator stem ya' gots :) Using this method the "really good" guys will often devise a way to get an id reading on the muzzle end so that they can say that they're truly "chambering between centers." OR, they'll stuff a center into both ends and call THAT "chambering between centers,"

IMO any of these systems (and 15 more) will be more than adequate for your 22, get 'er centered up and cut a chamber such that the throat is centered in the bore... ba-da-BOOM.

hth

al
 
I make no claims to being a gunsmith, nor do I stay in Holiday Inns.
I have the same problem on my lathe (EMCO Maximat V-13) of not having a way to install a spider on the back side of the spindle. I usually thread barrels between centers using dead center and a drive dog on the muzzle end and a live center on the breech end. this way I can remove the barrel for test fits until I get the thread the way I want.
To chamber and fit, I indicate the breech end using the 4 jaw chuck and use delrin bushings (I made several for different size barrels) to center the muzzle end of the barrel in the spindle hole. Then I ream the chamber in the headstock using a Dave Manson floating reamer holder.
I'm sure some of the real gunsmith's and machinist could find fault with this method but it works for me and it's about the only way I could solve the lack of a back end spider.
Dave
 
I used to have that same problem until I got a new machine. What I used to do, since you are finishing at 24" is to first chuck in the muzzle end with about 2" hanging out of the chuck. Then indicate the bore in as far back as you can. Skim the O.D. to clean up straight double checking that nothing has moved after the light skim cuts. Flip the barrel around, indicate the O.D that you just skimmed, set up with the steady rest with normal procedures, thread & chamber in whichever order you prefer. Then saw off the piece that you won't need on the muzzle, keep it for a seating depth gage, then crown as desired.
 
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