Thoughts on Lead Sled

N

nmibex

Guest
I'm working on my bench technique and it is improving but I was wondering if using a lead sled versus my current front rest (the rock) would help with accuracy.

Any of you have experience with lead sled type of rest compared to the more traditional front rest? Would something like the rock br, with horizontal adjustment capabilities, be a better choice?

The purpose is for load development and sighting in for hunting; not competition.

Thanks
 
Contraption!

I've looked that that contraption and can't for the live of me figure out how one could possibily shoot good groups with it.

One couldn't possibility get the same setup from shot to shot.

I'm certain it will reduce felt recoil.

I've tried several times to come up with a gaget that would reduce recoil and aid in better groups.

There is an forend benchrest adapter that Sinclairs sells that helps a lot in the accracy department, but does nothing to reduce recoil. One time I made a copy of this out of stainless steel and it weighed about ten pounds. Believe me adding 10 additional pounds to a 10 pound rifle will reduce recoil. The problem is I use the same mounting system as the Sinclairs (attaches by the swivel stud) and in short order I tore out the swivel stud. I can tell you it really worked until it failed.

I am now thinking about a return to battery system with recoil reduction, but I already have my loads worked out for all my big game rifles soooooooooooooooooowhat for?
 
I USED ONE ONE TIME FOR TWO DIFFERENT MODEL 700 IN .300 rum. Fifty pounds of lead on each side and it still lifted the rest up and had to be reset each time before the next shot. I'm glad they were not my rifles or my rest.

What and abortion the rest is. What and abortion the .300 RUM is to shoot from a bench.:mad:
 
nmibex,
I'd stick to working on your technique with what you have. The BR top would let you move horizontally easier. But, you not in a timed event where every second might matter. Remember without flags you can only be so accurate.

James
 
Thanks

for the feedback. I did a search on this site and found more information. Based on the input I'll go in a different direction.
 
lead sled

I have talked with a guy thay cracked a stock in one. i would stick with a front mechanical and rear bag. plus you have to factor in that your rifle will shoot a different poa and probably group larger since the rest will limit the natural movement of your rifle
 
Try this

Use a PAST shoulder recoil pad,or on the cheaper side make your own by trimming up a couple of DR.Schols foot pads (Gel type). Insert the pads into a sewn on pocket in your jacket shoulder IT WORKS GREAT. BTW use NEW foot pads, (Old ones have a certain aire about them) usually not good ;)
 
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I have a contraption called the Gun Brake that I bought seven or eight years ago that is like two L-shaped pieced bolted together. It is adjustable to accomodate different lengths of benches. The front part hangs over the front of the bench, and the rear (being L-shaped) easily slides between the rifle butt and your shoulder. The only give or movement rearward is due only to the flex in the butt pad. I have a Remington .338RUM with laminate wood stock, and when I asked them if I could use this for sighting in the rifle, they said "NO!" They confirmed my fear that heavy-recoiling rifles with no room to move can break the wooden stocks. Of course, I could just put a sissy pad between the rifle butt and the brace to alleviate this problem. This device should not be hard to make. Just get a couple pieces of steel, drill a few holes on the long ends and find bolts to fit together, and then put into use on a sturdy bench. All this will do, though, is remove the recoil and will not return a rifle to zero. I guess you may not be too far off if you wanted to take it a step further, though.
 
I'll stick with the front rest and rear bag

but I have $120 in gift certificates with Cabelas so I'm seriously considering the Caldwell Rock BR. I like the idea of the windage adjustment and I'm not inclined to spend the dollars to get a true BR quality rest. Although the rest I have now is my third attempt in 6 years to find something I'm comfortable and happy using. I'm also not hung up on Caldwell, I just haven't seen anything comparable in the same price range.
 
Three in six years?

Well you should have bought a good rest the first time and now you want to spend another $120?

I don't think the Caldwell has had great reviews:-(=
 
If recoil off the bench is an issue, you could go to the old time sissy bag - a leather bag firmly filled with lead shot that you held between shoulder & buttplate. For the porposes of recoil, it increases your rifle weight by the weight of the lead. It also adds to the length of pull, which can be a help or hindrance, depending on how your bench position compares to your hunting stance.
 
This is just soooo easy, :( it's about recoil.

IF YOU CAN'T SHOOT IT, SELL IT! It's TOO BIG for you!


This ain't about technique, it's about too friggin' much gun! If you can't ride the gun down over a set of Uncle Buds Bull's Bags or another good front sandbag there just ain't no better way. IF, I say IF this is really about "accuracy" and "working on loads" then a good scissor type front sandbag rest is every bit as accurate as any other system. Or, as has been mentioned, one of the "Accuracy Asset" style forend plates. A 50lb Bull's Bag and a nice rear bag, remove the sling swivel studs and slip some Bounce dryer sheets in there and you're ON....... It takes a while to set up and it does NOTHING to mitigate recoil but it WORKS. You have to either ride the gun or shoot free recoil when working up loads AND you have to use the same technique in the field.


AND you have to be able to do it over and over without flinching ;)

I did handle one of the Caldwell joysticks recently and can say that for say varmint hunting it's better than nothing. Quite decent for the price. But for target shooting a hunting rifle, load workup??? Suck it UP! :):) It's all bout the follow through......

al
 
Al

Guess I really didn't make myself clear. I'm not very concerned about recoil. I have a Browning A-Bolt 300 WSM, 270 Ruger, and 6mmAI Remington. I've been shooting the WSM without the brake but I'm thinking about putting it on to work up a load and then take it back off to sight in for hunting. I was just looking for rest alternatives to replace what I have and take out a little of the mechanical variable so I can work more on what I'm doing right and wrong. I play golf and shoot a bow and know that consistency and follow through are key to good shots. My intuition made me skeptical about lead sleds but a guy at the office swore by his so I thought I would get others opinions and they seem to confirm my original impression. I saw an earlier post from you that gave some liniks for quality rest but as I mentioned before I don't want to invest that much money in a rest.

Thanks for the response . . . I'll really appreciate the information and sharing of knowledge on this board . . . the humor is also really good at times.
 
nmibex,

Thanks for taking my post in the spirit it was intended...... I've just been around too many folks to whom recoil IS the issue.

I've just finished load workups on several 300WSM's, the M70 and a couple 700 XTR's and they are indeed quite pleasant for a magnum 30. I MIGHT even shoot mine in 17lb 600yd Light class, at least a time or twice't!

I'm deadly serious about the X-Style sandbags, a pain in the posterior to set up but dead easy to shoot from.

The Sled will NOT allow a rifle to perform to it's capacity.....

al
 
There is a reason no one who shoots for accuracy uses the lead sled...

IMHO it is a waste of time to use this unless you are fireforming the old fashioned way with bullets.:)
 
Keep the rest you're using

since it's for hunting ........use your Cabelas $$ for ammo and practice in the manner you're likely to encounter while hunting ( i.e. off-hand, tree stand shooting rail, car window:D etc.)
My only other suggestion would be to upgrade the front and rear bags on your current set-up and fill them in the proper manner ( do a search on this site).
Go on the Protector web-site, give them a call ....they'll Know what will work with your rifles. Protector and Edgewood are the ONLY bags to consider.....everything else is just useless garbage.
Be forewarned, other than using an accuracy asset and good bags, it's rock and roll with them hunting style stocks:(
 
I busted a wood stock on a 458 Win mag and ......

a 300 Weatherby with a homemade contraption similar to the lead sled.

Weatherby replaced the wood stock at no charge, great customer service.

Bottom line, during recoil, something has to give.
 
I have a lead sled and love it. However, you can not get good groups with it. It interferes with the cheek weld, gives you parralax issues, etc. It is nice for getting a hard recoiling rifle initially sighted in. Then go to the regular rest. I can drag 6 rifles out to the farm and shoot them all, to sight them in, to see if they work, whatever, without recoil problems.
 
I am looking at the lead sled and lead sled dft as well. I am holding off as I am not sure my AR will work with them. I've seen prices of $169-200 for the DFT version.

I did 60 rounds one day of 7mm Rem. Magnum. Too hot for thick clothing in Texas summers. Shoulder was sore for 2 weeks.

There are slip on pads to double up the pad.

My brother's 98 Mauser has a VAIS brake that works great and is not as loud as I thought it would be. But it is 8x57 and not a magnum. The recoil was wonderful.
 
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