The act of shooting - simple doubts

M

Migs

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Friends:

1. I take my .308 to the range and set it up on the adjustable rest. What then? I mean, I can shoot the thing and get some decent groups for a beginner, but what is the best way to hold the rifle for the shot? How much pressure do I put with my shoulder? Do I use my left hand to hold the stock down? Let me know all these pointers please.

2. How many warm up shots do you recommend? At what interval? During the match, does it help to say wait 25 sec. with the bolt open between shots so as to allow the barrel to cool evenly from shot to shot? What is the theory here?

Thanks amigos,

Migs
 
What sort of match are you shooting? Describe your rifle. (barrel weight? stock design?) Heavy barreled rifles with Benchrest stocks, and a proper rest/ bag setup can be shot differently than others. Exactly what design of front rest/bag, and rear bag are you using? Up to this point, what has worked and what has not?
 
Hi Boyd:

I have a Steyr SBS (safe Bolt System) 300M Standard CISM match rifle. (Also sold as a tactical rifle.) in .308, a Sinclair base with windage adjustment, and a bunny ear bag for the back.
The match is 25 rounds at 5 each to five targets at 200 yds plus one sighting target. Solid hollow core slab benches, 30 or 35 minutes or so for the match.
I reload my ammo using Nosler Custom Competition 308, 155gr bullets #53169 and Hercules 2400 powder (When I run out I'll use another). Forster bench rest dies...

Migs
 
Powder....Issue....

Nosler Custom Competition 308, 155gr bullets #53169 and Hercules 2400 powder

Yikes...!!!:eek:

Herc 2400 powder.............. In a 308.................BOOM!

Please tell me it's a type-o...
Some shoot "reduced" loads with fast pistol powders in large center fire cases BUT only at <100 yds AND with lotta experience...

Might want to look at 4895, Varget, VV N140, IMR4320....< These will do real well in your 308.

You will get solid info here on BR central.... Though, your best bet is to ask fellow competitors at your matches for feedback.... Especially those who WIN...!

cale
 
Hercules 2400 is a magnum pistol powder used extensively in the .44 magnum. No way would I use it in a .308. Too easy to get a double charge and blow your hands off.
 
Gotta agree with Caroby and Mr Coleman on the powder! It'd be awfully easy to double charge a .308 case with 2400 which would be VERY UGLY for the rifle and shooter. It's a good powder in magnum pistols and the .22 Hornet, but IMHO it's a poor powder for full power loads in the .308. There are a whole bunch of better powders to use, BL-C(2) is one, but 4895 in either flavor, Varget, Reloder 15, 4064 or 4320, TAC, and others are far better. A powder that fills the case to the base of the bullet or even require a little compression will likely give better accuracy, and be a LOT safer.

As to your question, the barrel doesn't need to be warmed up like a diesel truck engine, but it likely will shoot best after a fouling shot or two have been fired through it. You will have to find out how many foulers your rifle wants or needs. Some rifles will put the first shot into the group, others won't, it's always safe to fire at least one fouler after cleaning.

Rapid fire will shorten barrel life, but it's hard to give a time interval between shots. If the wind is calm or at least steady and you're firing a group it's best to get all the shots into the group while conditions hold. That might mean firing your group as quickly as possible. Just know that you'll be shortening the life of your barrel some. It's probably not something to worry about though. In NRA across the course matches ten shots are required to be fired in something around a minute in the rapid fire sections, and .308 barrels last around 5000+ rounds from what I've been told.
 
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OK guys, you convinced me! I'm switching to BL-C(2) right away.

Migs
 
Migs, not far back (and I must say months may be...) I was in a situation similar as you: a beginer with hungry of knowledge of how to shoot tinny small groups from a centerfire rifle AND living in a country where there is no formal Benchrest shooting matches... :(

Well, I will not suggest any technique for you, but two things helped me a lot and a third WILL help me a lot:

1º - Read a lot on this Forum and others!!! This forum is more than gold for us living far way from BR matches.

2º - Buy the book of Mike Ratigan: http://extremerifleaccuracy.com/

And the third thing I am sure will help me a lot is attend the IBS School in Michigan next June! http://www.benchrest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49081

Good Luck!!! :)
 
Thanks for all the good advice. I'll get the book. One of the problems is of course getting the components that these top pros use. That is why some of my questions drill down to the basic things all of us must use or do. Things like position and reloading techniques, that are common to all shooters.

For example, the holding of the rifle. If I let the rifle rest and dont use my left hand to hold the stock down, upon recoil the muzzle will rise - affecting the shot. Similarly, if I don't touch my cheek to the stock, my heartbeat doesn't rock the rifle. (This is specially evident in .22 benchrest), so I don't touch it.

How much pressure with the shoulder? What about the wind? I see the flag move, but from there to correcting for the wind is a HUGE step!

Oh, and I have a Leupold Competition 35X scope with target cross hairs on the rifle.

That is the kind of advice I am looking for. The book looks like a great idea and I will pursue it.

Thanks again for racking your brains for some input along these lines.

Migs
 
Shooting a rifle with appreciable recoil off the bench can be a problem. I've only known one guy who shot a .308 free recoil (not touching his shoulder) and after a match he looked like he'd been in a fight with bloody knuckles and frequently a bloody eyebrow from the scope. If you can shoot the rifle from a higher position on the bench, that is, you position the rifle so that you're sitting up straighter behind the rifle you'll be able to absorb the recoil better, and it should help keep the rifle from jumping as much.

It's probably best, and easiest on the shooter, to hold onto the rifle, and shoulder it tightly. It may take awhile to learn to shoot repeatably this way, but if you do it'll work. The 35X scope will amplify every little wiggle and jiggle though. The alternative is to feel like you've been in a fight with a couple of really big guys who don't like you at all.

Learning to read the wind is like learning to read a new language that's not written in Roman characters, Chinese, for instance. It can be done, and practice is the only way to learn I'm afraid. For me the wind talks, but I can't understand.:eek::eek:
 
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