Tenon Length Stolle

[mturner]

I am chambering a barrel for a stolle action. I know the thread is 1 1/16" X 18 TPI. I do not have the action with me, so I am going to shoot for the headspace and hope it is right when I deliver the barrel. If it is not, then we will just have to shoot it on a different day. I was told the dimension from the end of the reciever to the bolt face is 1.117". Does this sound right? How close are these from one reciever to the next? I believe it is a Panda. I have not been able to get in touch with the owner today, and I have it in the lathe dialed in and chambered. I just need to figure out where to cut the shoulder for headspace. I am also curious about how deep the thread relief is. I would hate to get there and realize that I needed another half a turn of threads.

Michael

 

[Butch Lambert]

Which Stolle? The Panda and Grizzly are 1.115 for the tenon length. You shouldn't need a thread relief. If you feel that you need one it needs to be to the root of the threads.
Butch
Butch

 

[mturner]

Thanks

That should be all I need to have some confidence. I did finally get a phone call through to the owner, and he said his measures 1.1165". He also said that if I thread it as close as I can to the shoulder, it should screw up fine. If I use your deminsion, it will have another .0015" headspace, which should be fine by simply adjusting the lock ring on the sizing die. I'd rather it be a tad long than a tad short.

Michael

 

[pbike]

Troy Newlon has detailed Tennon drawings on all of the major custom actions, and all of the factory actions. Threading and chambering a barrel is something you don't want to screw up, or hope it should be fine. Remember not just head space, but gap space as well, (the area between the front of the bolt, coned in this case, and the rear of the barrel breach, also coned) the surfaces shouldn't touch, but should be close. Our good friend Phil Sauer points this out to all in an article he wrote for Precision Shooting years back, and can be found in the "Benchrest Primer".

 

[mturner]

Pbike

Troy Newlon has detailed Tennon drawings on all of the major custom actions, and all of the factory actions. Threading and chambering a barrel is something you don't want to screw up, or hope it should be fine. Remember not just head space, but gap space as well, (the area between the front of the bolt, coned in this case, and the rear of the barrel breach, also coned) the surfaces shouldn't touch, but should be close. Our good friend Phil Sauer points this out to all in an article he wrote for Precision Shooting years back, and can be found in the "Benchrest Primer".

I'm glad that you speak with concern, because you don't know me. I realize there are a lot of details that can go wrong causing injury or even death.

I want to assure you that if something isn't right, the gun will not be fired. I have chambered a lot of rifles, built several actions, and make my own chambering reamers. I also have a tendency to shorten extractors if they extend to far forward causing a larger than neccessary gap between the bolt and barrel. Even though I don't have the action with me, I had the guy send the bolt. The cone depth was the most concern to me. With the headspace guage installed, the bolt cone has .006" clearance from the back of the barrel. As long as I hit the headspace within .002", make sure the thread allows the barrel to seat against the action face, and guage the thread depth properly, it should work fine.

I have put in a lot of time on this project. I still need to grind an undersized reamer to chamber a FL sizing die, make the die, heat treat it, and lap it. I also need to finish the inline seater. You just hate to make a 5 hour drive to realize that you can't test without finding a machine shop to modify the barrel you hoped was finished.

It's guys like you that have concern for others saftey, and make this world a better and safer place. In no way should you feel that I would take this wrong because of my experiance. That would be wrong on my part. I just needed to assure you that I approach with caution, for your own peace of mind. Thanks again.


Butch,
I should have made myself more clear about the thread relief. I didn't plan on cutting one in the barrel. I like to back the cutter out close the the shoulder. What I meant is how deep are the threads relieved in the front of the reciever. Some actions as you know have a thread or two of relief.

Thanks,
Michael