Technical questions about action screws.

N

nemohunter

Guest
OK i have an 82G made by KOO. it is a two action screw rifle. one screw is in the tang behind the bolt. i know this is not good for accuracy. i plan on sliding it up in front of the trigger. now for the other action screw. it fits directly into the bottom of the recoil lug. is this OK???? i have never seen any other rifle with this set up. i could move it too while im at it. what do you guys think??? the lug is set in a dovetail in the bottom of the action and held in place by a set screw. this just seams like something else to either go wrong or just something else to have to jack with.
 
As you push down on the barrel you will be trying to bend the action up in the middle. For this condition it's best to have the rear screw in the middle, in front of the trigger. If you push up on the barrel the action will try to bend down in the middle and the rear screw is doing nothing so it make no difference where it is. As you push the barrel side to side you will be trying to lift the action up out of the bedding and this will be minimized by a screw in the middle of the action. So it seems to me in a BR rifle, that is one without a cutout in the stock for a magazine, placing rear action screw in the center of the action would bind it to the stock better, make it stiffer and less likely to move. If receiver is glued in it would be assumed to have "action screws" at all points along the receiver where it contacts the stock.
 
OK so after a week and 400 plus views by the best shooters and gun builders on the planet this is what i've got. if i push down on the barrel it lifts the middle of the action so a screw there is good. my word it's a mirical. how could i have know without your guys. oh wait i already did see my first post. thanks a bunch guys. no offence to the ONE person who tried to help. he shared his knowledge the rest of you could take lesson.
 
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Recoil Lug

I think the problem is the nature of the question. With my limited knowledge I don't know of any conventional target or benchrest rifle that bolts into the lug. Many RF shooters do away with the lug. Where there is one, we work real hard to make sure the only place it touches the stock is on the receiver side. The front, sides, and bottom are floated make sure the recoil and vibration are consistent.

Mark
 
nemohunter,

You might contact Kent Owens. He is using a New York Kimber action on a sporter. They use the same action bolt thru the recoil lug. Ask if he modified it.
Jerry
 
i have no chip. i asked a simple question. what do you think????? how much simpler does it get? all kinds of room for opinions and conjecture. the problem is this. most will not even give an opinion due to the fact that i MIGHT use that info to better myself and maybe beat them one day. oh the horror of competition. i have seen it time and again simple easy questions either disreguarded or ignored due to snobishness or rudeness. if nobody has an idea due to the lug then maybe say so. to easy i guess.
 
thanks Jerry. i was typing as you were responding. i'll give Kent a shout.
 
There's a guy on Rimfire Central has a 82G that Calfee did something to, don't remember the details but he may have rebarrelled it or something. Anyway, Calfee worked on it and it's in the factory stock do a search over there he has pictures of it. It doesn't seem to me that the 82G would make a good benchrest rifle, like you say that dovetail ain't the best and the factory stock leaves a lot to be desired; putting pillars in is next to futile the rear screw not enough meat to put a pillar and the front screw the wood is onlt about 1/4" thick. I just glass bedded mine better than nothing. One thing you gotta watch is the front action screw may be a little too long and it bottoms out before it gets tight. There's also a guy on Rimfire Central that sells hex action screws. That's all I know, mine don't shoot too good either. Thanks, Douglas

PS: when I saw the title of your thread a few days ago I just passed on even looking, you might have choosen or worded different.

Just remembered what Calfee did, he turned the barrel around, made the muzzle end the chamber end.
 
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thanks guys. i'll send a few pm's or emails. BTW it's me that sells the action screws:D
 
nemohunter,
I sent you a PM. My NY Kimber action has nothing in common with an 82 Kimber action. The NY action has a front 1/4X20 action screw that goes into the front receiver ring and another 1/4X20 rear screw that goes into the rear tang like a 40X Rem. The recoil lug is a piece of aluminum fitted midway into the receiver area and a corresponding slot is milled into the receiver that fits over the lug, much like a Suhl does, or Hall action. I did away with the metal lug and just formed the recoil lug with bedding compound when I bedded the receiver, and full floated the barrel.
 
nemohunter,
Kents right. I must have had a brainfart:confused:, the coopers are the ones with the front screw thru the recoil lug. Sorry about that.
Jerry
 
Post #8-I just now read the question and Id pretty much say-How in the hexx do I know. I never was/will be a machinist. With my info on the subjectyou will never beat anyone inc yourself.

I have a 82G and it will shoot better than me most every day. What it needs is a better trigger. There is a poll over on RFC in the remington section regarding what trigger Timney should make next. Some are suggesting one for an 82G adj to BR needs(couple oz at most). Maybe youd join.

About the action screws-dont torque the ... out of em. 55 IN/pounds on the front one and 35 on the back-tightening front first. I believe that is the suggested method. 55 in/pounds is not much with a nice sized screwdriver handle.
 
Rod Collins said:
Glue it in...
Click to expand...

that thought had ocured to me BUT the trigger is gonna be replaced by hook or by crook. i'm either gonna wait for Timmney or maybe adapt either the new Jard/cooper trigger or build an adaptor plate for an annie trigger. something is gonna change amd i need to be able to remove the action for tuning. i'm gonna secure the front lug permanantly and slide the rear screw forward and see what happens. FWIW the rifle shoots very well but i know there is more there just due to all the weaknesses in the design/construction. of course it may all be in my head where it will remain until it's "fixed" LOL. here is the rifle in it's old modded stock and it's new Elkridge stock where it will be resting shortly.
2008_0204thefirstpicx0026.jpg
 
Put your trigger on then, as Rod told you glue it. You should not need to remove it to tune but if needed you can pop it out and re-glue it easiy enough. Relieve the lug, glue everything else.
 
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