Swapping Out Savage Bolt Handles?

B

billt

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bolthandlesfg6.jpg


I'm thinking of swapping out the bolt handles on both my Savage 12F/TR, and 10FP rifles with a couple of these "tactical" models from Sharp Shooters Supply, http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/ Has anyone done this? I'm told Savage really tightens the heck out of everything at the factory, but there is a fairly large Allen type screw at the rear of the bolt. I just wondered how easy of a job this was? When working on guns I always apply Murphy's Law. If anything can go wrong, it will. Sometimes there is more to these type of jobs than meets the eye. Thanks in advance, Bill T.
 
billt,

I`ve been swithching bolts on my Savage rifles for a couple of years. It`s pretty simple to do. You`ll need an a .250 allen wrench, or similar T-handle tool. The first time may be a bit stiff...but you`ll get the hang of it quickly.

I favor the larger BT version, but that`s just my preference.
 
Do you simply grasp the bolt by the handle in padded vise jaws and apply the wrench with a short pipe? That would seem like the easiest method. Bill T.
 
Secure it in a padded vise via the bolt body. Insert the tool into the recess and twist it to the left. You`ll see 2 nylon inserts in the bolt head when it`s removed...they make removing the bolt head the first time somewhat snug.
When you unscrew it from the bolt body, keep the bolt nose pointed downward...otherwise you may have some difficulty getting it back on. There are other parts to the bolt that must be in their proper place while you do this. (Another topic)
Once you change out the handles and use the rifle for a spell, check the tension on it once in awhile...I`ve had one or two work loose.

The earlier vintage rifles sported bolt heads with a large screw slot. Imagine trying to find the proper "screwdriver" back then for those!:D
 
STP said:
The earlier vintage rifles sported bolt heads with a large screw slot. Imagine trying to find the proper "screwdriver" back then for those!:D
Click to expand...


A steel rule for a combination square works perfectly!:D

BTW...the "guts"
Bolt%20Parts%202.jpg


Bill
 
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Thanks much for the exploded view. Is anything under spring tension when you remove the handle? Bill T.
 
billt said:
Thanks much for the exploded view. Is anything under spring tension when you remove the handle? Bill T.
Click to expand...

No, the tension, all but the last little bit, will be released as you back out the screw. Nuth'n will go fly'n.

Generally to remove the "snug" factory installed ones, I'll clamp the bolt in a vise then use a 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar, but you can lay the bolt on a bench, insert an allen wrench at about a 45 and press down....if 'n ya got 'nuff lard in the can that is. :D

Bill
 
billt said:
Funny how that tends to accumulate no matter if it's wanted or not. :D Bill T.
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LOL...actually Bill, that comment goes back a fer piece, when I was 8 or 9 years old. ( I'll be 60 this November). Anywho Dad was rebuilding a 58 Mercury 430 inch motor for a guy and wanted me to tear it apart, but being a little guy I got most of it, but I didn't have the "oomph" to break the head bolts loose. Dad piped up "Boy, ya need more lard in yer can".

Move forward 20 or so years, we were putting a cast iron NP 4 speed in my 66 Dodge. Dad grabbed a hold of it, pressed it up ALMOST into place , kinda stalled out and said "Hey give me a hand"...

"Hey Dad, ya need.........."
Ya know what they say about paybacks!:D

Bill
 
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