Suhl 150 Firing Pin Spring Replacement a Do It Yourself of Gunsmith Needed ????

H

Hank

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I just bought a Suhl 150 and the strikes are light so I'm thinking about replacing the spring. Is this a professional job or not???
Hank
 
If you arent familar with the suhl dont mass with it, get a good suhl gunsmith to set it up for you.
 
If it is like the Anschutz and I expect it is, It is a piece of cake. You should be able to get a replacement from wolf springs.
Just google them.
 
Disassembling the bolt on a Suhl 150-1 is fairly easy. Often, there is a lot of gunk built up around the firing pin spring and in the housing itself. Soaking the parts in a good solvent, then using compressed air, should clean things up to where the firing pin strikes will improve. One can also add a small booster spring between the back of firing pin and the bolt retaining cap. Replacing the firing pin spring on the Suhl requires some talent, plus a special tool, that one could fabricate from an old screwdriver. Aftermarket springs are available.
 
If this will be your first time disassembling a Suhl bolt, just remember to go slow! After removing the End Cap from the Bolt the biggest point to be aware of is: when sliding off the Side Shields, the last shield before the bolt handle also holds a detent pin and spring in place, and you don't want to loose either of these, so just be careful of what you are doing.

This part of the disassembly is no big deal, so don't hesitate to do it. Just watch out for the above mentioned and have a catch pad of some kind, like an envelope box top, under your work area. Once you've done it, you'll see just how easy it is and have no problems doing it in the future.

If you decide to continue on and perform the spring swap yourself, once you've pulled the Firing Pin Assembly out of the Bolt, but before starting its disassembly, mark down on a piece of paper how the Locking Nut on the end is positioned as you will want to return everything to the exact same position when done. You will need a small set of Locking Pliers in order to loosen the Lock Nut, a pair of Adjustable Plumbers Pliers to keep the Sear from turning while loosening the nut, a Slotted Flat Bar in order to compress the spring while both removing and reattaching the Sear (it's threaded and unscrews once the Lock Nut has been removed), and some sort of Vise to hold the Assembly while working on it, but not too tightly (just be very careful not to apply any side pressure to the firing pin when in the vise as you definitely don't want to bend, or worse yet, break it [I always wrap mine in a rag, plus use either wooden or rubber side blocks between the vise and pin]).

Go Slowly, and Good Luck!

Dave
 
Not a piece of cake, but also not impossible. There is a retaining nut on the back end of the pin body that is threaded on, and staked in place. You'll need to make a spanner to remove it.
You can make one out of an old screwdriver by grinding a notch in the center to straddle the pin body and then thin it to fit the two notches in retaining nut. Make sure when you put it back together that you have the same exact length from the cocking piece to the front of the pin where the stop is located. Use a dial caliper to measure it to begin with and use the same measurement when you reinstall the cocking piece. This allows it to stop in the front of the bolt. 1700 series Anschutz springs work fine as they come from the pack. No cutting required.
edit--Sorry Dave, you and I must have been posting at the same time.
 
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I do appreciate all the information and advice.....I've done some gun "tinkering" over the years and it sounds doable to me but since I probably will only do it once, I may just look for a gunsmith to change the spring. Lately, I have lost a little "feel" in my fingers and working with small parts is a little more frustrating than it used to be.

Any suggestions on who to contact to get the spring replaced..???
Hank
 
IMO the problem is not a weak spring is drag on the firing pin caused by rough machining. I did a thread over on rimfire central.
 
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