Do any of you fine gentlemen know were i might find a cheaper spring loaded dead or live center for my tail stock? I think they would be a handy tool to have, but at 250$ im not sure i really need one. I can think of several situations were i would use one. Anyone of you fellas use them? I would think someone carries an import model, but i cant seem to locate one. Lee
spring loaded dead center
- Thread starter skeetlee
- Start date
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
For what are you planning on using a spring loaded center for, besides maybe pushing a tap. In many lathe applications that require a center a spring loaded center is dangerous!
Spring loaded center
Why Jerry, let the "Grasshopper" learn what he needs.
Nat Lambeth
Why Jerry, let the "Grasshopper" learn what he needs.
Nat Lambeth
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
Nat, and I know you mean this in jest, as much as Greg and I have communicated by email and phone, I kind of feel responsible for his safety. Meeting his lovely wife and daughters on facebook, I'd hate to see him get hurt and an improperly used spring-loaded center can do just that especially when used on a lathe.
Gene Beggs
Active member
Lee
Will you or someone explain to me why anyone would ever want a spring loaded dead center?
Gene Beggs
Will you or someone explain to me why anyone would ever want a spring loaded dead center?
Gene Beggs
Been using the "Concentric" brand for 30 years. A standard type will overload when heavy cuts are made do to the part heating up. Never used one on my big lathe, just for the tool room lathe. You can preload it as much as you want, run it in until you feel it bottom out and back off a little, pretty standard stuff on CNC as well. I guess if you had a out of balance part, it would try to come out, but never had that problem. Anyway.
geo.ulrich
Member
the concentric centers are great even in a shall we say a larger lathe...
It is an easy project to make a simple straight shank spring center with about an inch or so of travel. This tool is definitely NOT for use as a machine center, but is used in a chuck for holding and rough alignment of parts while setting up and clamping, and for starting taps straight. Many machinist training courses use these as a student lathe project.
I can probably scare up a drawing or maybe a picture if it would help.
Scott
I can probably scare up a drawing or maybe a picture if it would help.
Scott
Yeah, then I agree, you don't need one. There are different ways machinists have to think, are you working for the fun and enjoyment or are you working to beat out five or six competitors who have quoted the same job. I now work for the enjoyment, which was what got me started into this underpaid profession, I take my time now and don't worry how long it takes. A dead center would work for you, no need for the extra extra expense.
And please anybody don't take anything I offer as an affront or contradiction, it's just offered as my personal experience.
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
Hey Mr H, the spring loaded centers are safe enough if, like you said, go tight then back off slightly, keeping the stroke to where the workpiece can not come out under pressure. A loosely set spring loaded center can literally kill the operator.
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Yeah, your right Jerry, it's better to assume a person is inexperienced. I only let one man run my lathes, once one of my top "mill" machinists decided to do a little lathe job. I heard this loud banging and ran to see what was happening. He had put a 1" dia. piece of bar stock and had 3 feet of it sticking out the rear of the headstock. It bent into a 90 and was beating the hell out of a trash can. I would have "assumed" he would have known better.
Yes, I see your point after that flashback.
Yes, I see your point after that flashback.
No offense taken fellas, and i appreciate the info. I am, or have become pretty savey with my machine, and i always work safe.
I had to run some taps in the other evening for a project, and i thought how nice a spring loaded center would be to keep my tap runing true. I Also use some little alluminum pieces that i made, between the jaws on the chuck, and the barrel to help the barrel pivot while jacking the bolts on the outboard spider. When i set up, i center the barrel the best my eyes will allow in the outboard spider, and tighten the bolts a fair bit. I then use a dead center to center and hold the barrel on the chamber end while i incert my little alluminum pieces between the barrel and the chuck. This is were i could use a spring loaded center, as i have had my barrel slip out a few times. not a big problem by any means!! Thanks agian. lee
I had to run some taps in the other evening for a project, and i thought how nice a spring loaded center would be to keep my tap runing true. I Also use some little alluminum pieces that i made, between the jaws on the chuck, and the barrel to help the barrel pivot while jacking the bolts on the outboard spider. When i set up, i center the barrel the best my eyes will allow in the outboard spider, and tighten the bolts a fair bit. I then use a dead center to center and hold the barrel on the chamber end while i incert my little alluminum pieces between the barrel and the chuck. This is were i could use a spring loaded center, as i have had my barrel slip out a few times. not a big problem by any means!! Thanks agian. lee
Pictures of spring center
Here are some pictures of what you need. I made this one, but there are similar ones out there for sale. I use mine for starting taps in the lathe, mill, or even in the drill press.
Look Here:
http://tool.wttool.com/tools/spring%20center%20tap%20guide
Here are some pictures of what you need. I made this one, but there are similar ones out there for sale. I use mine for starting taps in the lathe, mill, or even in the drill press.
Look Here:
http://tool.wttool.com/tools/spring%20center%20tap%20guide
Attachments
Lee,
If you were interested in making one on your own, there is a youtube video made by halligan142 on this very subject. He is a hobby machinist as well, but has some great information. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3M0eeb5UpLQ
Mike
p.s. I am also interested to hear if you ended up getting the "cats head" that your friend makes so you can dial in muzzles on shorter barrels. Or did you end up going with the barrel stub idea that others here mentioned.
I am realizing the precision limitations of my old machine and am gathering information for when I am able to get a more rigid setup. My father in-law has a farm and often needs to have new bearings or shafts turned/bored and I was hoping to do some work for him...just can't do that kind of precision on a machine that can't hold .010 over 6 inches up by the headstock!
If you were interested in making one on your own, there is a youtube video made by halligan142 on this very subject. He is a hobby machinist as well, but has some great information. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3M0eeb5UpLQ
Mike
p.s. I am also interested to hear if you ended up getting the "cats head" that your friend makes so you can dial in muzzles on shorter barrels. Or did you end up going with the barrel stub idea that others here mentioned.
I am realizing the precision limitations of my old machine and am gathering information for when I am able to get a more rigid setup. My father in-law has a farm and often needs to have new bearings or shafts turned/bored and I was hoping to do some work for him...just can't do that kind of precision on a machine that can't hold .010 over 6 inches up by the headstock!