Spider chuck

JonathanK

New member
I am going to build a spider for my D1-4 cam on my lathe to replace my 4 jaw chuck so I can work shorter barrels through the headstock. I am wondering what would be the best size and TPI for the 4 screws.
Thanks,
Jonathan K
 
I used 3/8-24 Socket head cap screws, picked the length so they would always have their heads recessed into the spider body for safety:

Doneopenflush1RS.jpg


I later added brass to the bolts.

Fitch
 
OK heres what I built...keep in mind Im not a machinist just a hobbyist gunsmith.
Heres my machine with the 4j chuck that cam with it
IMG_20110416_141526.jpg


this is the faceplate that came with the machine(I never use it and pricing faceplates and backplates, I can get a faceplate later for quite a bit cheaper than a backplate alone) , I cut it down to make the spider. I ot a lesson in working working with cast steele...it sucks
IMG_20110418_234044.jpg


I drilled and tapped it, I am using 3/8 16tpi for now. I may later open to 1/2 and go with 20tpi.
IMG_20110420_203631.jpg


After drilling and tapping
IMG_20110420_214845.jpg


Spider chuck with barrel dialed in, I havnt made brass inserts yet so Im using .025 brass sheet
IMG_20110421_153112.jpg


22.5 barrel chucked up with plenty of room to spare
IMG_20110421_152344.jpg
 
My vote is to use a very fine pitch thread. With a fine thread it is easier to make small adjustments because it takes more movement of the wrench to move the barrel small amounts. Also fine threads have a shallow ramp angle which keeps them from backing off so you don't need lock nuts.
 
Jonathan an easy fix at this point would also be to use set screws instead of SHCS. You can get them a bit shorter and no head sticking out to snag stuff.... take a look at the PICTURES I sent you. remember anything sticking out is a safety hazard.

Paul
 
Jonathan an easy fix at this point would also be to use set screws instead of SHCS. You can get them a bit shorter and no head sticking out to snag stuff.... take a look at the PICTURES I sent you. remember anything sticking out is a safety hazard.

Paul

I had the exact same thought.

Fitch
 
I used a Chinese D1-4 cast backplate that I machined the OD and face square, then machined a 1" thick stainless round to match the adapter perfectly. Everything was drilled and tapped on the Bridgeport with rotary table and 3/8x24 socket cap screws. I turned and added brass tips to the barrel screws.

To date I've not had one barrel slip from start to finish in my setup and everything stayed dialed in. There are no screws protruding on the chuck side in any operation.

img6048c.jpg


img6229e.jpg
 
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I used a Chinese D1-4 cast backplate that I machined the OD and face square, then machined a 1" thick stainless round to match the adapter perfectly. Everything was drilled and tapped on the Bridgeport with rotary table and 3/8x24 socket cap screws. I turned and added brass tips to the barrel screws.

To date I've not had one barrel slip from start to finish in my setup and everything stayed dialed in. There are no screws protruding on the chuck side in any operation.

img6048c.jpg


img6229e.jpg

Beautiful job. Well done.

Fitch
 
I used a Chinese D1-4 cast backplate that I machined the OD and face square, then machined a 1" thick stainless round to match the adapter perfectly. Everything was drilled and tapped on the Bridgeport with rotary table and 3/8x24 socket cap screws. I turned and added brass tips to the barrel screws.

To date I've not had one barrel slip from start to finish in my setup and everything stayed dialed in. There are no screws protruding on the chuck side in any operation.

Nice looking Heavy 10 from what I can see of it. How long have you owned it?
 
Heres an update on my spider chuck...I tapped it for set screws and added brass inserts(I JBed them in and then broke em loose this makes a tight fit but they are still able to turn

IMG_20110504_220457.jpg
 
Before I made my spiders I looked at photos of the ones that had been made and listened to quite a few opinions of those that were using this setup. The result is I used 1/2" UNF screws for both of my spiders and made up a T handle for adjusting them, that way I cant over tighten them. The only screws I can't recess below the turning surface are the ones on the out board spider.......Kiwi

SpiderChuck.jpg


Spindlespider.jpg
 
I used 1/2" X 20 tpi set screws. One problem was finding the set screws. I used an internet company called McMaster-Carr who sell them individually and in 5 packs. The local hardware stores did not stock them. Tim
 
I used 1/2" X 20 tpi set screws. One problem was finding the set screws. I used an internet company called McMaster-Carr who sell them individually and in 5 packs. The local hardware stores did not stock them. Tim


Tim, Thank you for posting this info. I have been having the same problem lately trying to get socket head set-screws that are longer than 2" in 1/2-20 thread. I found a company in Australia that list them as a special order item, but at $7.62 each (minimum order 50 pack) I thought to hell with that.

I'll try the company you mentioned, just hope they will do export!

Cheers,

Dean.
 
Dean,
I have an account with them. If you have a problem I can get them and mail them to you. I just sent a tool steel forming cutter to Ian Owen.
Butch
 
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Dean if you look at my photo of the spider chuck I used 1/2" unf cap screws and counterbored for the head of the cap screw, can't remember how long they are but they are over 3" long.........Ian
 
Dean,
I have an account with them. If you have a problem I can get them and mail them to you. I just sent a tool steel forming cutter to Ian Owen.
Butch

Hi Butch,

I might have to take you up on that offer thanks. I contacted them about export, and well, the email reply I got was fairly abrupt, bordering on downright rude. No, they aren't interested in export customers at all (abridged version). So much for customer service........ A shame because their website is awesome, lots of good stuff.

Thanks Butch, let me know your email address or PM me so I can discuss with you what I need. Nice that at least someone is willing to go out of their way to be helpfull. More than I can say for my experience with McMaster-Carr......

Cheers,

Dean.
 
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