"sleeved" actions?

K

kstockfo

Guest
just what does this mean? most folks talk about sleeving in the context of accurizing an action (especially the rem 700). what is this operation? is it expensive? is it part of "trueing" or "blueprinting" an action? thanks for the help.
kstockfo
 
Sleeving an action is not the same as blueprinting, although an action should be fully blueprinted before being sleeved. The sleeve is a tube that has the action epoxied into it. I increases bedding area and stiffness. The one in this picture is glued into what looks like a fiberglass stock. The reason that I can tell this is that the stock has two small holes on each side that are in line with the pins that hold the trigger into the action. Another thing that may be sleeved is the bolt. This is done to decrease the clearance between the bolt and action. Sleeving a bolt is a step beyond basic blueprinting.
sleevedRemington.jpg
 
Sleeving was very popular with the 700 actions before the custom actions came on to the scene with so many choices, sizes and somewhat decent prices considering no blueprinting was necessary. Also you see a few XP actions sleeved because of their small size and minimal mounting action screw dimensions it is helpful on that application.

I have built / bought a few sleeved actions that get you close to BR standards with typically a lot less investment. Here is my "junk yard dog" that was a combination of old parts I put together this year for prarie doggin:

6BR.jpg
.
 
Alinwa
It is both a sleeved action and a barrel blocjk set-up.The barrel is 36 inches long and 1.750 straight cylinder so I barrel blocked after sleeving it.
Waterboy
 
Alinwa
It is both a sleeved action and a barrel blocjk set-up.The barrel is 36 inches long and 1.750 straight cylinder so I barrel blocked after sleeving it.
Waterboy

ahh so!!

Startlingly big gun, does things to perspective!

;)

al
 
Sleeving an action is not the same as blueprinting, although an action should be fully blueprinted before being sleeved. The sleeve is a tube that has the action epoxied into it. I increases bedding area and stiffness. The one in this picture is glued into what looks like a fiberglass stock. The reason that I can tell this is that the stock has two small holes on each side that are in line with the pins that hold the trigger into the action. Another thing that may be sleeved is the bolt. This is done to decrease the clearance between the bolt and action. Sleeving a bolt is a step beyond basic blueprinting.

I'd be interested in hearing more about sleeving a bolt body.
I have an old No.4 Enfield that has a complete new bolt to give it minimum headspace, but due to the wide tolerances of these rifles the bolt body is a loose fit to the rear receiver walls when the action is opened.
When pushing the bolt forwards the front of the bolt tilts down a hair, which causes the bolt head to rotate, sometimes fouling the takedown slot cut in the bolt head track rib. It is a common problem with the No.4 MkI* and results in chipped and worn bolt head tracks.
Its only a problem when single loading, when fed from the magazine upwards pressure of the follower counter acts the tilt.
 
sleeved actions

don't let any one kid you they help the rifle shoot way better.
I had one done a few years ago for the 30br.
It was an old 600 laying around . It now is a fine shooting 30br.
I have the sleeve that looks like a panda action.

Sleeving the bolt. That was one way to take the slop out'
Usually a brass ring was soft or silver soldered to the bolt body
where it was needed. Then turned down and polished in a lathe.
If done properly the bolt will be really nice with little play.
I hope this helps
 
Most of the bolt sleeving jobs that I have seen used a epoxied on split sleeve that was machined to diameter after being bonded to the bolt. Properly done, you would hardly know that they were there.
 
I'd be interested in hearing more about sleeving a bolt body.
I have an old No.4 Enfield that has a complete new bolt to give it minimum headspace, but due to the wide tolerances of these rifles the bolt body is a loose fit to the rear receiver walls when the action is opened.
When pushing the bolt forwards the front of the bolt tilts down a hair, which causes the bolt head to rotate, sometimes fouling the takedown slot cut in the bolt head track rib. It is a common problem with the No.4 MkI* and results in chipped and worn bolt head tracks.
Its only a problem when single loading, when fed from the magazine upwards pressure of the follower counter acts the tilt.

Oldgunner,
Why did you change out to a completely new bolt. Enfields have removable bolt heads. That is the way headspace is adjusted. The shortest which is what most will have is a "O". Then you have "1", "2" and "3". Each progessively longer by about .004" if I remember correctly. Numrich arms have these for sale. Because of the guide rib on the Enfield bolt, I think it would be very difficult to bush the diameter to a larger size.

Donald
 
Back some time now, some Aussie gunsmiths used to knurl a section of the back of the bolt body & then turn that to size. It seemed to get the job done & possibly had a secondary benefit of wiping the crud out without too much abrading.

It sure must have been easier than sweating or glueing split sleeves on.
 
sleeved actions

Getting back to sleeves.
Here was my reason the remington action is round and it torques when you shoot it.
I went for a flat bottom sleeve with a built in recoil lug.
I believe this eliminates the right torque when i shoot the rifle.
many are now glueing the action into the stock also.
It's just my own choice. actually there's nothing wrong with a good blueprinted remington action, Today we are lucky enough to have david Kiff , that will make you a new oversized bolt body also.
 
don't let any one kid you they help the rifle shoot way better.
I had one done a few years ago for the 30br.
It was an old 600 laying around . It now is a fine shooting 30br.
I have the sleeve that looks like a panda action.

Sleeving the bolt. That was one way to take the slop out'
Usually a brass ring was soft or silver soldered to the bolt body
where it was needed. Then turned down and polished in a lathe.
If done properly the bolt will be really nice with little play.
I hope this helps

Well Its a help in knowing that won't solve the problem. A ring can't be fitted where it would need to go, the bolt has a long guide rib on the portion that goes back and forth in the bolt track when cycling.

I may be able to squeeze the split bridge in a vice, its open at the top.
The problem may be due to the bridge spreading under excessive pressure due to it being used with unsuitable MG fodder, or fired with a heavily fouled bore.
From sand I found in it, it was probably used in dessert heat which can raise chamber pressures.

Might be able to apply a thick nickel plating to the inside of the bolt track, maybe with a Texas Platers outfit.

Oldgunner,
Why did you change out to a completely new bolt. Enfields have removable bolt heads. That is the way headspace is adjusted. The shortest which is what most will have is a "O". Then you have "1", "2" and "3". Each progessively longer by about .004" if I remember correctly. Numrich arms have these for sale. Because of the guide rib on the Enfield bolt, I think it would be very difficult to bush the diameter to a larger size.

Donald

The old bolt was totally ruined, mainly by deep blood rusting of the underside of the bolt body, and wear to the inside of the front where the bolt head screws in. I'd already obtained a No.3 bolt head, headspace was within limits, but I figured sooner or later that badly corroded bolt body would give way, deepest rusting I've ever seen and the surface completely rusted away in an area the size of a thumb print.
Bolt handles was also deeply rusted and the butt stock had a rotten spot at the action strap where crusted blood had been.
I figure this was a battlefield pickup, the previous user bleeding out while reloading, getting bloody cartridges in the mag that later lay against the underside of the bolt for years, and getting off a last few shots before expiring. They hadn't cleaned the blood off very well before tossing it into storage.
Kind of smelled like a rotten corpse to.

I just picked this rifle on a whim, to see just how much it took to make it a good shooter, I can now get consistent sub MOA with it.
Fired cases look almost like unfired cases and I haven't lost a case yet to stretching or annular rings.
Had to polish away .0005 of the broad lands of the two groove bore to remove pitting, acroass the lands it now slugs as .304, but I use the .312 bullets from Hornady to take up the slack.

PS just examined the lower portion of the bolt way, I may be able to mount a removable shim there to prevent verical tilt.
The lower bolt way is wide open on these actions, depending on side to side fit to prevent tilt, which is not a problem with the earlier Enfield actions to begin with.
A more recent re engineered version of the action by AIA encloses the rear walls at the top of the guide rib track to prevent spreading, and uses a redesigned bolt head and track to prevent damage and reduce probablity of wear allowing tilt.
 
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