Sizing die problem fixed.

F

frwillia

Guest
I have a Redding full length die for .223 Remington. I've had good experiences with every Redding die I own except this one. Since I bought it 4 years ago it's had a tendancy to stick cases. I've gotten pretty good at getting them out. All this time I've thought it was me, my fault, the cases were sticking. I trimmed them to minimum length, changed lubes, cleaned the die, used lots of lube, but they would still stick at the rate of at least one in 50, sometimes 2 or 3 in 50.

Yesterday I decided I'd had enough of this. Using a bore light I looked inside and discovered the finish didn't look like anything I'd find acceptable in a chamber. So, figuring I had nothing to lose, I chucked it in the lathe, cranked it up to as fast as it will go, and starting with 400 grit paper dipped in cutting oil, I polished it. It took two 15 second sessions with the 400 grit before it looked "uniform" all over the inside after giving it a spray with degreaser, compressed air, and a chamber mop wrapped in a patch.

Then I went ahead and gave it 15 second applications of cutting oil dipped 600, 800, and 1200 grit paper, thoroughly cleaning between each grit. I oscillated the dowel in and out rapidly when doing the last 5 seconds or so of 1200 grit to give it some cross hatch. When I was done it looked positively shiny inside, and most important, it looked the same all over with no rough patches left.

I took it to the bench, and proceeded to load 150 rounds of FL sized .223Rem with out a single case sticking. I've never been able to do 50 before with out one sticking. The brass slid into the die very smoothly and extracted just as smoothly (except for the expander button of course). The sized brass measures the same as it did before as closely as I can measure it, it no longer has any scratches on it after it's been sized (though there are some bright shiny spots where it contacted the die) so I don't see any downside to it.

This is a real improvement.

An unintended consequence of teaching myself to chamber a rifle barrel last winter was getting my problem sizing die fixed. Who'd a thunk it?

This is huge. I needed some .223 ammo - I've averaged a ground hog a day since the first of June - that CZ American .223 shoots the 40g Nosler BT within +/- 0.5" from line of sight from 40 to 190 yards into dime sized groups at around 3,600 fps and drops ground hogs in their tracks. It's a great walk around GH rifle for here in south central PA.

Fitch
 
Fitch,

What's the measured difference between the diameter of the casehead and the fattest part of the fired round, above the casehead at the web/body junction.

al
 
Fitch,

What's the measured difference between the diameter of the casehead and the fattest part of the fired round, above the casehead at the web/body junction.

al

I have three pieces of brass. One FL sized before I polished the die, one FL sized after I polished the die, and one fired brass.

The diameter of the brass just above the extractor groove is 0.373" on all three of them. The fattest part of the case is 0.375" on the fired brass and the FL sized brass from the polished die. The fattest part of the FL sized brass from the die before I polished it is 0.3745" or about 0.0005" smaller than it is now.

They all feel the same when I chamber them and close the bolt.

Does that answer your question? I'll keep the brass here just in case it doesn't.

Fitch
 
snipped...............

The brass slid into the die very smoothly and extracted just as smoothly (except for the expander button of course).

Fitch

OK, now its time to polish the heck out of the expander ball and get another improvement.
 
Are you talking sizing button that we don't use or carbide bushings that we do use?
Butch

The initial post, fourth paragraph ...very smoothly and extracted just as smoothly (except for the expander button of course)....

Redding calls them sizer buttons. I did not see any discussion about a bushing ....
 
I have three pieces of brass. One FL sized before I polished the die, one FL sized after I polished the die, and one fired brass.

The diameter of the brass just above the extractor groove is 0.373" on all three of them. The fattest part of the case is 0.375" on the fired brass and the FL sized brass from the polished die. The fattest part of the FL sized brass from the die before I polished it is 0.3745" or about 0.0005" smaller than it is now.

They all feel the same when I chamber them and close the bolt.

Does that answer your question? I'll keep the brass here just in case it doesn't.

Fitch

Yo Fitch, thanks for the info. Yes that answers my question.

I collect info on dies and die fit. In fact, you could say I'm a bit of a die freak! :)

I'm glad your polishing out worked...

al
 
Redding floating carbide size buttons.

The Redding floating carbide sizing buttons are really slick. :cool:

I use them in several of my Redding standard dies. They really make life easier....no lube needed inside the neck plus the necks stay straighter than when using a standard expander. I dip the necks in some powdered motor mica just for a bit of extra lubricity.

Good stuff. Here's a link for those that haven't seen 'em. -Al


http://www.redding-reloading.com/pages/sizebuttons.html
 
Fitch,

I will second Al's suggestion for some dry lube. Either motor mica or moly work well. Together with the carbide expander button they sure make re-sizing smoother! :)

DougF
 
Fitch,

I will second Al's suggestion for some dry lube. Either motor mica or moly work well. Together with the carbide expander button they sure make re-sizing smoother! :)

DougF

I agree.

I should have added that I use the mica to lube the neck. I roll the body on the case lube pad, dip the neck in the mica and slide it over the brush. I have the Frankford Arsenal mica application tool screwed to the bench just to the left of the press. I use microfiber towels (purchased on sale at COSTCO) to wipe the cases clean after they are sized.

I took a piece of 1/4" 12L14 hex stock, drilled and tapped one end 8-32, cut a groove in the other end to fit in a power screw driver, and use that as a power tool for things like primer pocket brushes, etc.

ChamberBrushHolder-1-C.jpg


Only took a couple of minutes to make it, but it sure is handy. I also use it to run one caliber bigger bronze brushes through my revolver cylinders (.45 brush in .44 mag cylinder, for example) to get them clean.

I'm really looking forward to using the carbide sizing buttons. I ordered 3 of them in .22 (for my .22 Hornet, .223, and .22-250) and 1 in 6mm (for the .243). One look at the picture of them and I have to wonder why they aren't "how it's done".

Fitch
 
just another tip

You can normally just find a threaded stand off at home depot or lowes and the chuck your brushes up in a drill. My reloading box is full of standoffs ive been using
 
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