shortening length of pull on laminated stock

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woodbutcher

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What is the best method to shorten length of pull on laminated stock to minimize splentering?
 
I have a fixture I made that hangs off the back of a mill table. I support the stock vertically and use a 5 flute carbide end mill. Climb cut around the stock and there won't be a single chip/tear in the wood. It's worked on every stock combination I've ever used. I bought one of those little laser leveler thingys from Sears and it's mounted to a camera tripod. I keep it zero'd out and have a spot on the floor marked for quick reference. Turn the laser on, tap on the stock with the fixture finger tight until the light bisects the guard screws and "looks right" (very important) lock it down, and then give'r hell. I can cut for LOP, install adjustable buttplate assy's, mercury slush tubes, what ever in one operation.

Quick and simple. Best part is no saw blades buzzing. I have a little phobia as I about lost a finger to one when I was 17.
 
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For those of us who are equipment challenged a band saw with a jig to hold the stock at the correct angle while you push it through slowly has worked well for 40 years. Masking tape over the cut line on the bottom may reduce splintering. Nothing tougher to do than a laminated stock.
 
If you carefully score the cut line all the way around with a sharp razor knife or use one of those Japanese pull saws that don't have much kerf to do the same, any tear-out on the back side should be eliminated. Then sand the cut surface flat.
 
woodbutcher,
Use a sanding disk on a radial arm saw, with a jig to hold the stock at the proper angle. The disk spins so fast, it will remove the wood quickly with no splinters. I also use the sanding disk to profile ebony fore end tips on sporters.

Regards, Ron
 
A sliding jig on a tablesaw with a high quality cut-off blade. One cut and its done. Smooth and straight and ready to attach the pad.
 
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