Screw removal advice

E

Enahs

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I have a Winchester Model 70 heavy barrel target rifle. As the original owner, I know that it has been well cared for —no rust, etc. It has always had a scope mounted on it. Now, however, I want to install a set of Redfield International sights. The receiver is tapped and filled for them — but the filler screws don't want to budge with a modest amount of torque applied with a correct screwdriver. And it would kill me to make a mess of this old favorite, since it is perfect. Any suggestion as to how to "professionally" go about removing these screws? They have been there since Winchester put them there decades ago. Thanks in advance for any insights.
 
You need impact.

You need two people.

You need a good screwdriver..... I use a replaceable-bit driver which has a metal "tang" extending thru the handle such that you can hit it with a hammer and not shatter the hannle.

You need to grind a bit to such a perfect fit that it will slip into the screwslot and STAY there if you were to roll the rifle around in the air.

Now, one person exerts pressure, the other taps on the handle.

The screw comes out.

hth

al
 
You can also do the above with one person and a good padded vise to hold the action solidly. Steady twist and light taps and it should break free... the key is the screwdriver fit to the slot...
 
Dennis Sorensen said:
You can also do the above with one person and a good padded vise to hold the action solidly. Steady twist and light taps and it should break free... the key is the screwdriver fit to the slot...
Click to expand...


:):):)

Me too, but we're gunsmith's Dennis. We've busted enough stuff to know the mechanics of the thing. I've never enlisted help, and in the case above I'm PRESUMING a padded vise as well as the two people, but I'm trying to illustrate the 'moves,' the forces involved so dude can skip that "busting stuff" part of the learning curve......

For the screw to release you're exerting two disparate forces. #1 is to fit the driver and use it to exert a nice firm "twisting" pressure. #2 is to force the screw down into the hole which disengages the screw threads. The threads of a screw are a long inclined plane, lots of friction to overcome with just twisting so you tap on the screw and the surfaces actually part..... the screw tuns out easily.

al
 
First, I want to say thanks and to assure you that when I bust it, neither of you will be blamed or cussed. Actually, while no expert, I am reasonably good at such stuff (not busting things, that is). So, I'll give this a try. In the past, I've given such screws a tap and then turned them, but I get the principle that you are using with repeated taps. But to begin, any lube/soak appropriate (Kroil?).
 
First, grind, or fit a screwdriver to the square slot. Remove any old dried grit, or oil from slot. The screwdriver you have probably does not fit the screw slot. Grind, file, or whatever till it does.
 
For a good penetrating oil, try a 50/50 mix of Acetone and Auto Trans Fluid.
 
Dennis Sorensen said:
You can also do the above with one person and a good padded vise to hold the action solidly. Steady twist and light taps and it should break free... the key is the screwdriver fit to the slot...
Click to expand...

exactly...I've done this many times through the years, not neccesarily on firearms either.
 
A good method for removing stuck, shallow notched, gun screws is to put the part in a padded vise on a drill press or milling machine.

Then with a good, well fitting, screwdriver bit chucked in the spindle, while putting significant pressure on the bit in the spindle with the ram, turn the chuck with a rod in the chuck key hole by hand. That way the bit can not back out of the shallow slot.
 
JerrySharrett said:
A good method for removing stuck, shallow notched, gun screws is to put the part in a padded vise on a drill press or milling machine.

Then with a good, well fitting, screwdriver bit chucked in the spindle, while putting significant pressure on the bit in the spindle with the ram, turn the chuck with a rod in the chuck key hole by hand. That way the bit can not back out of the shallow slot.
Click to expand...

That's a good one I forgot... I have done that with scope mount screws... if that doesn't do the job it's drill and tap time...
 
If you're going the "soak route" first, roll it to the left 90 degrees, and put the BARREL in the padded vise.
Then pull the bolt, and with a toothpick or other small implement, put whatever "soak" you want, down into the screwholes, where they come into the raceway.
On the "slot side", many of those screws have a small cap atop, that shields the threads, and all the old Hoppe's and other stuff that turns into varnish, settles under that cap and keeps things "glued-up".

This'll work w/scope mounts, too; just roll the scope over 180, and put your "goop" in the holes on the inside of the receiver.

HTH
 
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JerrySharrett said:
A good method for removing stuck, shallow notched, gun screws is to put the part in a padded vise on a drill press or milling machine.

Then with a good, well fitting, screwdriver bit chucked in the spindle, while putting significant pressure on the bit in the spindle with the ram, turn the chuck with a rod in the chuck key hole by hand. That way the bit can not back out of the shallow slot.
Click to expand...

Good one Jerry;

Ain't never too old to learn another trick. They usually come from someone older than me too . Now I can pass it on.
 
Just remember that a padded vise doesn't hold much compared the the "significant force" of a milling ram or even a little drill press. It's easy to slip the piece and ding it on the bottom.

BTW, about penetrating oils/solvents. I never had much luck with them until one day I used an air hose to blow a project out..... and VOILAHHH!!!......... The air pressure drove the goop into the t'reads and the knock-R-loose actually worked! So now I force the penetrant in with an airgun. While tapping with a hammer.

al
 
In my other life as a motorcycle mechanic, I've found that heating a rusted cruded up bolt with a heat gun and melting a bit of candle wax onto the bolt allows the wax to enter the threaded area and free the threads. Haven't needed that on a gun yet but it's worth a try.
 
the drill/mill set up is your best as the forces are in line I would try the heat and cold routine you can buy compressed liquid nitrogen it is the corn spray stuff it gets real cold as for heat use a large soldering iron apply the heat ad cold directly to the screw head this causes the head to swell and contract much faster than the mass of the reciever use your tread breacking componds as stated above from the inter reciever area use a very good fitting screw bit and a long extension in the drill/mill lock the vertical movement so there is none use a small wrench to turn the adapter shaft not the press quill lefty losey will unchuck the quill
 
I'm as liddle lost here on why everyone says "use a wrench" or "Use a rod" or "lefty/loosey will unchuck the quill." I've turned my drill press chuck by hand doing this and the direction used to loosen a screw tightens the chuck..... what am I missing?

al
 
Don't forget we're talking about a 6x48 plug screw here. Won't take much torque to break the slot. I'd put Kroil inside and out on the screw, then heat with a micro torch, until the kroil smokes slightly. Hand torque on a perfectly fitted screwdriver should turn easily. If not, repeat kroil and heat cycles, tap gently on screwdriver.
 
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