scope base and optic ???

J

JonnyBender

Guest
I have a Bushnell 6500 3.5-30x50mm scope on a 0 moa scope base, if I want to shoot at long range (1000yds) I know it won't reach not enough up elevation. Now I have to get a 20 moa base and that will bring the front of the scope down and give me more up adjustment. Now the problem I may face is I may not have enough down adjusment to zero my scope at 100yds.


Now this may sound like a stupid question, could I use higher scope rings or will it negate the use of 20 moa scope base.

Manufacturer states that the scope as a total of 50 moa adjustment.

Does this make any sense to anyone.



JonnyBender
 
What cartridge???

Unless you have a rimfire:p a 20moa and 50moa scope will easily get you to a 1000 yards. Let's say you have a 308 Win. and you are shooting someone's light 168 grain bullet at 2700 fps. You will need between 35 and 37 moa to get from 100 to 1000 yards. As long as that falls somewhere in that 70 moa you have it made and if it doesn't there is more than likely a problem somewhere. You might even get lucky and not need that tapered base at all.

Hope that helps.
 
same problem

I have a 6mm-6.5x47 Lapua on a Lawton action/barrel with a Nightforce benchrest scope/rings. On the 20moa Lawton base the adjustments bottomed out 12 inches high at 100 yards. I had to choose if I wanted a long range rifle set up for 600/1000 yards or a shorter range rifl set up for 100-600 yards, and then use the correct base.
 
One solution might be to use Burris Signature rings with offset inserts. With 0's in the rear ring and -20 in the front you've effectively got a 20 MOA base. If you need more you can always make the rear +20 and the front -20 to get 40 MOA.

Unless you like dropping your rifle out of second story windows or dropping it down a mountainside they're plenty sturdy, and those soft inserts hang onto the scope tube like glue without marring it.
 
Pay attention...

One solution might be to use Burris Signature rings with offset inserts. With 0's in the rear ring and -20 in the front you've effectively got a 20 MOA base. If you need more you can always make the rear +20 and the front -20 to get 40 MOA.

Unless you like dropping your rifle out of second story windows or dropping it down a mountainside they're plenty sturdy, and those soft inserts hang onto the scope tube like glue without marring it.

A great recommendation. And...they are reasonably priced.

virg
 
I have a 6mm-6.5x47 Lapua on a Lawton action/barrel with a Nightforce benchrest scope/rings. On the 20moa Lawton base the adjustments bottomed out 12 inches high at 100 yards. I had to choose if I wanted a long range rifle set up for 600/1000 yards or a shorter range rifl set up for 100-600 yards, and then use the correct base.


12 inches or 12 moa at 100 with the 20 moa base would mean you are 8 moa up from the bottom WITHOUT the tapered base. 8 moa up in a NF with 40 moa adjustment would leave you 32 moa to get to 1000 yards. If you are shooting somthing like the Berger 105 VLD at 3000 fps then my ballistic computer says you need 25.25 moa of that 32 that you have left. Am I missing something?
 
Bottomed out

I said it bottomed out at 12 inches high, I was trying to communicate that all adjustment had been used and I was still 12 inches high at 100 yards. Clearly I have plenty of vertical to go back up, but I could not get on target at 100.
 
I said it bottomed out at 12 inches high, I was trying to communicate that all adjustment had been used and I was still 12 inches high at 100 yards. Clearly I have plenty of vertical to go back up, but I could not get on target at 100.

I think you are missing my point. If you bottom out at 12" with the tapered base installed you could take it off (go to a flat base) and you would be 8" or 8MOA low at 100. You would then have 32 MOA left from 100 to get to 1000 and you only need 25 to 27 to get there. Then you can can do them all with one setup.
 
Then we also have the situation.............

of 30MM vs. 25.4MM tube diameter. The 30MM doesn't require as much change. Well, dang it, jist git one 'a them Valadaddy's with a 34, better yet, 50MM main tube, THAT'll teach 'em!! :eek::rolleyes::D:D won't it??
 
I think you are missing my point. If you bottom out at 12" with the tapered base installed you could take it off (go to a flat base) and you would be 8" or 8MOA low at 100. You would then have 32 MOA left from 100 to get to 1000 and you only need 25 to 27 to get there. Then you can can do them all with one setup.

Tony, thanks for the advice, but I managed to reach that conclusion myself about 3 months ago. My original reply was to the original post simply stating that I had a similar problem with a 20 moa base. Sorry to have muddied the issue.
 
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