Sako Extractor Pivot Hole

L

lejarretnoir

Guest
Mike Bryant wrote: said:
If the extractor is too far forward, then the bolt isn't milled correctly and about the only way to solve this is to grind a little more relief on the extractor where the extractor fits over the case head. You can also plug the pivot hole and redrill the extractor pivot.

I have a broken nosed Rem 700 bolt I converted too PPC Sako conversion I drilled the pivot hole just a little too far forward. What's the best way to plug the hole? Drill and tap an 8-40 screw, epoxy and redrill or is there a better method. I'm concerned that by redrilling the tapped screw there may not be enough of it left to take hold. Relieving the extractor groove won't get a tighter grip on the case.
Cases or loaded rounds do extract reliably, so maybe this is an unneeded fix, but I noticed that the rim will push the extractor back a little once flat against the boltface.

BTW, I did the Sako conversion on this bolt because the nose and extractor was ruined beyond repair and there was barely enough nose left to open it correctly for a bushing. This was the only alternative to repair or throw it away. So please no sermons on the dangers of Sako conversion. ;)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
le

Anyone who answers your question will be forced to admit that they made the same stupid mistake. :eek:

Well, count me in, cause I've done it too. What I did was to enlarge the hole just a tad, with the next size drill bit, fill the hole with a close fitting pin, epoxied with J-B Weld, and then drill it right (hopefully) using a rigid setup because the drill will tend to go right back into the same original hole. So, go slow with the drill bit chucked up as short as you get it. Starting the new hole with a center drill will usually keep it where it should be.

Good Luck

Ray
 
Start over and make it a Savage system...

alteredbolt-0.jpg
 
If you are as close as you seem to think, some very careful work on the extractor slot and nose with a Dremel abrasive disc might make it just right.

I prefer the Savage conversion as mentioned by Dennis S.

Jay, Idaho
 
Thanks for the tips guys. As luck would have it a welding buddy fixed it real nice and quick with a gob of MIG. We use heat paste so nothing got warm anywhere and no metal got into the firing pin area. Just milled and redrilled it. It's all right as rain. :)

It's the first time I've seen a Rem bolt like that. The nose was partly broken off like someone had a stuck case and hammered on it.

That Savage head looks good! Had this bolt been any worse I'd definitely go that route. Is there a preferred way if accomplishing it?
 
Back
Top