Rust removal - Best method

R

Roy Allain

Guest
I have 2 rifles I'm attempting to clean for a friend.

An Arisaka Type 38 - S/N ????

and a Winchester 94 - s/n 2,75x,xxx

The Japanese rifle has some rust issues, but are not too bad.

The Winchester has significant rust all over the receiver. I don't know what it's like inside. I will start tearing down one rifle at a time to see what's what inside.

I was thinking of Flitz for the rust or Naval Jelly. Is either of these ok or is there other things which are better.

I hate the idea of messing up the blueing on the Winchester because it may/will affect any value it may have.

Thanks for any help.

Roy
 
Living on Cape Cod I have dealt with the rust issue on more than one occasion and what I've found works best with the least affect on bluing is a CRC product in a spray can called "Marine 6-56". Spray it on and let it soak for a day or two or longer if possible and then rub the gun down with an old clean terrycloth towel. Kroil also works if you don't have a source for CRC Marine 6-56.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...CRC+Formula+6-56+Lubricant+/+Wet+Engine+Spray

Happy shooting,
Mitch & Shadow...
 
Roy...

Roy Allain said:
I have 2 rifles I'm attempting to clean for a friend.

An Arisaka Type 38 - S/N ????

and a Winchester 94 - s/n 2,75x,xxx

The Japanese rifle has some rust issues, but are not too bad.

The Winchester has significant rust all over the receiver. I don't know what it's like inside. I will start tearing down one rifle at a time to see what's what inside.

I was thinking of Flitz for the rust or Naval Jelly. Is either of these ok or is there other things which are better.

I hate the idea of messing up the blueing on the Winchester because it may/will affect any value it may have.

Thanks for any help.

Roy
Click to expand...

for light rust, not pitted surfaces, I use 0000 steel wool and oil rubbed lightly. Easy on the bluing and removes light rust just fine.
 
Naval jelly has long been considered Da' Schnizzle....... and it's good stuff but it can affect bluing. But, I always start by trying plain ol' Hoppe's #9 and 0000. It surprises me every time with how well it works, it still smells just as fine and it's a way to use the stuff up!

LOL

al
 
alinwa said:
Naval jelly has long been considered Da' Schnizzle....... and it's good stuff but it can affect bluing. But, I always start by trying plain ol' Hoppe's #9 and 0000. It surprises me every time with how well it works, it still smells just as fine and it's a way to use the stuff up!

LOL

al
Click to expand...


All the museum restoration guys say to absolutely stay away from "Naval Jelly", something about too aggressive, requires water and baking soda for de-activation, yet still leaves a chemical reaction, that over time continues the corrosion process.

Surprisingly, they recommend using any pennitrant liquid like Kroil or WD-40 with a bronze brush, gets in the deepest and the bronze residue neutralizes and protects against further rust with the least disturbance to most bluing methods.

Found this out while researching the clean up of an old 1873 Springfield Trapdoor..............Don
 
A friend of mine was digging in his garden a number of years ago and dug up a old semi-auto pistol,it was covered in mud and frozen solid,and rusty.
Another friend said to soak it in diesel or automatic transmission fluid,my friend followed his advice,he wasn't worried about the finish.
Two months later he pulled it out of the diesel bath,tooth brushed it a little bit, pressed the magazine button and the clip came out easy,the slide worked, you could read colt on the side,and when you pulled the trigger it would have fired.
Really surprised me.
The plastic or bake-a-lite grips were ok but the finish was gone.

Rudy
 
Surprised to hear about the naval jelly. I've used it a number of times on rebar and other steel parts and tools, worked really well. Never had to use it on firearms.
 
Naval Jelly will completely remove any and all bluing on the guns.
 
Rust

My guy that does a lot of building with all types of iron uses Zep Super Penetrant to clean up rust and it works great on guns for us. Good Luck craig:)
 
Rust

:) A guy who builds all kinds of iron things uses Zep Super Penetrant in a spray can does a great job and works on guns for us. Good Luck, craig
 
I Second It

alinwa said:
Naval jelly has long been considered Da' Schnizzle....... and it's good stuff but it can affect bluing. But, I always start by trying plain ol' Hoppe's #9 and 0000. It surprises me every time with how well it works, it still smells just as fine and it's a way to use the stuff up!

LOL

al
Click to expand...

Hoppe's and 0000 has always worked for me and didn't damage the blue if it was still there. ---Bill
 
I sometimes soak in Koil a few days and then rub with Koil & newspaper.
 
Soak it in kerosene and I mean for a minimum of a month. Rub it down with four O steel wool and put it back to soak. After all is said and done, I de-grease with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. Then she gets a rust blue, but only a few coats. rub out each time and oil. I really like to use non-carbureted Vaseline. I use this for all outside preservative and rub outs.

This has worked for me for decades, even for micrometers.:)
 
What about Flitz?

I was expecting someone/anyone to speak up about Flitz. I have heard that it won't affect blueing. True/false? Is it any good or just stay away from the stuff.

Roy
 
Yes Flitz

Try Flitz first for sure.

I would NOT use steel wool of any grade until all else failed and then even then I might not.
 
LPS KB 88 has been tested to penatrate better than Kroil, that is what I would use.
 
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