Rust bluing a rifle??????

Z

zeke mccune

Member
Hi GAng:

I am considering slow rust bluing some bolt action rifles and I need some information as to how to do the job.

I need to know about metal prep, what grit of finish do I use, is the bore plugged? what about power buffing grits?

Has anybody slow rusted a rifle and if so how do you like the results?

Of course there is always sending the gun out to be hot blued which will be muche easier!

Any suggestions?

TIA,

Zeke:confused:
 
I believe you can buy the instructions from Brownell's Inc. There is a lot more to a good rust bluing job than just doing it... Brownell's also offer an easier process to rust bluing/hot bluing that is simpler to do as well.
 
I've done several rust bluing jobs in past years. Takes a lot of time, but makes a nice job once complete. Nothing easy about it though. If I recall I finished the metal to 220 grit then applied a Pilkinton rust blue solution, let it set overnight with humidity, (if you're in a low humidty area set a pan of water close by), and boil it suspended in a tank of distilled water, card it with 0000 steel wool that had been treated to degrease it. Any oil, or a fingerprint on the metal ruins the job, and you have to start over. I used white cotton gloves and still tried to never touch the surface of the bluing during the entire process. After a few days it's starts to look blue and after 10 to 12 applications it makes a nice matte blue finish.
Most of the work I done was restoring Winchester 21 Double guns and old Fox and Parker double gun barrel bluing, and several model 12 Winchester shotguns.
As someone said, Brownells has the solution and the instructions, follow them exactly. Good luck!

*note- I no longer do any rust bluing work because no one wants to pay for the time it takes to do it, and do it right, and I don't really blame 'em:)
 
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The correct for Winchester is to spray a weak solution of sulfuric acid on the metal surface and use a sweat box. Short of that and a lot more work. I now use "Mark Lee" EXPRESS BLUE #1. It makes the entire process much faster, no sweat box need apply. No water to boil and evaporate, no days of endless time.


Brownells, has it, you sure want to try this one.

The real secret to any metal preparation is to wear clean cotton gloves and make all your pass with the length of the gun. Don't let your fingers be the backing with the sandpaper, use backing blocks. 220 is the most used finishing grit you need.:D
 
I've rust-blued rifles. I've used Laurel Mountain Forge's browning solution (it'll blue if you boil it), Mark Lee's Express Blue, and Brownells Classic Rust Blue.

Laurel Mountain was the first job, and the instructions said the degreaser was included, so no need to wear gloves. The job came out streaky. Likely my fault.

Brownells turned out great. So did the Mark Lee Express Blue. The Express Blue was much quicker once you get to the actual rusting. Most of the work is in the preparation/polishing. I've tried polishing up to 600 grit. I suggest going only to 320 or 400.

Degrease your steel wool and/or wire wheel for carding. You can download the directions for rust blue from the Brownells website if you want to see what's involved beforehand.

Hope this helps,
Steve
 
I just finnish a win. 94 and browned it. I used burch wood casey browning. It was a learing process. IF you use their method with heat it will work but I found out to keep using a clean patch when diping into their chem.. for the small parts I found if you use a elcectric soldering gun and touch the part untill hot and drop it into a small glass of browing you get great browning, I also have done 2 Cohorn mortars which will shoot a 16 lb. shot putts over 600 yds. with good results.

Gerald C
 
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