rimfire muzzle brake

[gambler]

rimfire sporters are quite sensative to recoil, my sporter jumps up, back and twists...would a muzzle brake tame this beast, or ruin accuracy ??
slow down the bullet ?

humor a dumbass

 

[Vibe]

rimfire sporters are quite sensative to recoil, my sporter jumps up, back and twists...would a muzzle brake tame this beast

Possibly. Would it be allowed in the rules?

, or ruin accuracy ??

Again, possibly - depending upon the quality of the work - but probably not.

slow down the bullet ?

Unless you shorten the barrel considerably to do it, I see no reason for a reduction in MV.

humor a dumbass

Why. These are legitimate questions to ask if you don't know.

 

[gambler]

what if the new sporter profile(calfee type) had a muzzle brake milled into it ?

would rather have it a threaded add on, but rules iz rules

 

[Vibe]

If your rules prohibit a threaded on tuner, they will probably also not allow a muzzle brake. And milling material out of a tuner body will alter any tuning ability it might have had - both by changing the mass and moment distribution as well as introducing some new unaccounted for forces which were not part of the original development of the profile.

 

[Greg Culpepper]

gambler,

There isn't enough muzzle pressure (remaining energy to re-direct) in a .22 rimfire rifle to affect anything much. Waste of time and money imho.

Greg

 

[Larry Elliott]

I've got a .22 pistol that I stuck a muzzle brake on to see what it would do. There's hardly any recoil without it, and hardly any with it. The only advantage I see is the small amount of muzzle weight. That's firing HV ammo from a short barrel. In a rifle with match ammo I seriously doubt that there'd be enough muzzle pressure to do much of anything positive.

 

[Old Gunner]

There are .22 rimfire match pistols that have gas ports drilled in the top of the barrel with set screws to fill ports you want to close, more for tuning than anything else, but they seem to have worked for control in rapid fire match.

 

[wlb]

My Walther LP300 10 meter air pistol has holes drilled in the barrel as well as a muzzle brake/air stripper on the end. With those holes filled with the set screws and the muzzle brake/stripper left on, there is a noticeable muzzle flip when fired. On a CO2 powered match pistol I made for my wife the muzzle would jump about a half inch until I made a muzzle brake/air stripper for it.

I think a series of holes drilled back from the muzzle a few inches would help. The only problem I see--and the reason I didn't do it to my wife's air pistol--is removing the burr left by drilling.

 

[Who Me?]

Volquartsen makes an add-on muzzle brake for Ruger Mark I, II & III's. It's installed by removing the front sight and sliding it over the barrel. The muzzle brake is available with various front sights. An Allen head screw is threaded into the existing front sight hole to hold it in place. I used one for years in bullseye shooting. It doesn't make a difference in slow fire, but it certainly does for timed and rapid fire. The reduction in muzzle flip allows you to get back on target quicker.

 

[Old Gunner]

My Walther LP300 10 meter air pistol has holes drilled in the barrel as well as a muzzle brake/air stripper on the end. With those holes filled with the set screws and the muzzle brake/stripper left on, there is a noticeable muzzle flip when fired. On a CO2 powered match pistol I made for my wife the muzzle would jump about a half inch until I made a muzzle brake/air stripper for it.

I think a series of holes drilled back from the muzzle a few inches would help. The only problem I see--and the reason I didn't do it to my wife's air pistol--is removing the burr left by drilling.

I've read that one method of avoiding burrs is to fill the bore with a casting alloy, like a chamber cast alloy or even lead. drill the holes then melt away the alloy. Finish up with lead lapping the bore.
Holes would be drilled at a slight rake to avoid a scrapping action on the bullet.

 

[Vibe]

I think a series of holes drilled back from the muzzle a few inches would help. The only problem I see--and the reason I didn't do it to my wife's air pistol--is removing the burr left by drilling.

Electrical Discharge Machining will not leave a burr - and could actually "drill" curved, square (or rectangular) holes.

 

[Old Gunner]

Electrical Discharge Machining will not leave a burr - and could actually "drill" curved, square (or rectangular) holes.

Very true, the process wasn't invented ,or at least available for use in gunsmithing back in the old days.

The methods I mentioned are much more low tech and can be done with the sort of equipment most people have available, drill press etc.

If the hole is first drilled til only the very tip emerges then the slight raised area around it is lapped flush it will bring the opening to near full dia.
Any thinned lip left at the bottom of the hole would tend to be pushed back into the hole by gas pressure the first few times the gun is fired leaving at most a smoothly rounded edge turned inward to the hole and nothing protruding into the bore.
Not sure but this might also give it a slight venturi profile to speed up the velocity of expended gas. Less gas escape for the same effect as a larger hole.

Haven't tried this yet, just seems like thats how it would work.

PS
I have made tiny holes in thin very hard spring steel which my drills wouldn't bite by using a punch to make a dent then using a whetrock to grind away the bump on the other side. That gave me the idea.
I've used that method to make a replacement hand spring from pieces of stripper clip springs , with a pin hole to lock it in the groove in the hammer by way of drilling a hole and driving in a small pin.
Some of these I'd repaired, from repro C&B pistols, had the outside of the slot broken away completely. The pin holds the spring in place better than the original method of holding these in place.



Also some like to drill the holes normally then counter bore from the muzzle leaving a free bore section.
Works okay for some low velocity calibers, but its risky for high accuracy barrels.

 

[Vibe]

Very true, the process wasn't invented ,or at least available for use in gunsmithing back in the old days.

Probably true. But for the last 30-40 years, EDM has been around. The cutting wire models have gotten much more sophistocated in that time - but the early "Tap Burner" tech still works and can be home built as well with a power supply, drill press, and source for dielectric flushing fluid.

 

[Old Gunner]

Probably true. But for the last 30-40 years, EDM has been around. The cutting wire models have gotten much more sophistocated in that time - but the early "Tap Burner" tech still works and can be home built as well with a power supply, drill press, and source for dielectric flushing fluid.

The rapid fire match pistols I mentioned were one made at least forty years ago. Since these came from the factory this way its more likely the vent holes were drilled before the bore was reamed and rifled.

 

[Lynn]

I have a AMT Team Challenge 22 with a muzzlebrake on it and it works okay for myself.
If you want a really nice set-up get your barrel Keeperred.
Waterboy

 

[tim]

rimfire sporters are quite sensative to recoil, my sporter jumps up, back and twists...would a muzzle brake tame this beast, or ruin accuracy ??
slow down the bullet ?

humor a dumbass

Your sporter does'nt. Yes.No.

 

[gambler]

my rifle has to be held very firmly on the forend and very loose on grip..it's hard to judge!
if you get it right it shoots!, it likes tenex in 1050s