I am wondering if theres anyone using 0000 steel wool to clean the chambers in their rimfires, I searched the site here and found only limited info, I wrapped some steel wool around a nylon brush and tried it on an old beater 22 that had a carbon lead ring you would not believe and it cleaned it up to like new, and yes I have a bore scope. I am just concerned about using it on my better rifles. Your input appreciated.
Rimfire Chamber Cleaning - Steel Wool ?
- Thread starter bigh
- Start date
I am not a traditional Benchrest shooter. If we had that type of match around here I would though. I shoot benchrest silhouette to 200 meters.
I’ve had tuners before. Not a big fan. I have a tuner on one of my rifles presently. The other day I went through I don’t know how many rounds of SK and Wolf and center-x, trying to find that holy grail sweet spot. Never did. The rifle shot the same pretty much no matter where I set it and at either extreme end.
The bottom line: Your rifle either likes what it’s being fed or it doesn’t. As someone already said. A tuner will not turn a pig’s ear into a silk purse. Green tag is garbage. Chrono it and see what you get for SD. That should be all the proof you need. The further out you go, the more important SD becomes. That’s why you need good consistent Ammo. There are lots of cheap Ammo that will turn in tiny groups at 50 meters that are virtually useless out at two hundred because at that point they are printing like shotgun patterns due to velocity variations among other things.
Get yourself a bit better Ammo. SK and Wolf are a good place to start. Last time I checked they weren’t giving green tag away, yet it isn’t much better than most of the bulk stuff you can buy on any shelf. Listen to these guys. They know what they’re talking about. Tuners are basically the last thing you go to for fine tuning after you’ve done everything else. Ammo is the primary place to look for increased accuracy if the gun is up to snuff.
My .02 cents FWIW...
I’ve had tuners before. Not a big fan. I have a tuner on one of my rifles presently. The other day I went through I don’t know how many rounds of SK and Wolf and center-x, trying to find that holy grail sweet spot. Never did. The rifle shot the same pretty much no matter where I set it and at either extreme end.
The bottom line: Your rifle either likes what it’s being fed or it doesn’t. As someone already said. A tuner will not turn a pig’s ear into a silk purse. Green tag is garbage. Chrono it and see what you get for SD. That should be all the proof you need. The further out you go, the more important SD becomes. That’s why you need good consistent Ammo. There are lots of cheap Ammo that will turn in tiny groups at 50 meters that are virtually useless out at two hundred because at that point they are printing like shotgun patterns due to velocity variations among other things.
Get yourself a bit better Ammo. SK and Wolf are a good place to start. Last time I checked they weren’t giving green tag away, yet it isn’t much better than most of the bulk stuff you can buy on any shelf. Listen to these guys. They know what they’re talking about. Tuners are basically the last thing you go to for fine tuning after you’ve done everything else. Ammo is the primary place to look for increased accuracy if the gun is up to snuff.
My .02 cents FWIW...
tonykharper
Well-known member
I would not recommend using steel wool in a chamber or barrel. The problem would be getting it out of the barrel and action. If you have already done it I would flush everything out really well. That stuff can get into places you don't want it.
Just my thoughts.
TKH
tonykharper
Well-known member
dryfly,
Your last seven words tell the whole story about tuners. Most rifles can't be tuned because of other problems, and no tuner or ammo will fix these.
TKH
Gosh I’m sorry guys. I responded to the wrong thread. This was actually to the guy who inquired about tuning his 10/22 with green tag.
I apologize...
And I agree with you whole heartedly Tony.
Bob1949
Member
Bigh, I would first use a good lead removal solvent with a bronze brush.
Only after several attempts at removing the offending contaminating material with undesired results
would I choose to use a steel wool method and then sparingly.
The steel wool, however fine, will also remove some, if very little, bore material
and as Tony in post #3 points out, will leave little slivers of wool in places you don't want them.
Bob
Only after several attempts at removing the offending contaminating material with undesired results
would I choose to use a steel wool method and then sparingly.
The steel wool, however fine, will also remove some, if very little, bore material
and as Tony in post #3 points out, will leave little slivers of wool in places you don't want them.
Bob
One of the absolute bestest ways to ruin a match grade barrel quickly.
Buy some BoreTech C4 and let it soak in the chamber 10-15 minutes......patch it out.......done.
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Bob1949
Member
Bibh, Tim’s suggestion of Bortech C4 is a good one.
Many shooters swear by it.
I use Shooters Choice Lead Out, it has done an excellent job removing lead fouling for me.
What ever solvent you choose, just soak the barrel well from chamber to crown, let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes,
the longer the better, then dry patch until clean.
Bob
Many shooters swear by it.
I use Shooters Choice Lead Out, it has done an excellent job removing lead fouling for me.
What ever solvent you choose, just soak the barrel well from chamber to crown, let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes,
the longer the better, then dry patch until clean.
Bob
Usually the throat is mostly carbon, on my guns the C4 goes right to clean metal, remember you have to leave it for a bit, I use a soaked patch on a jag/short rod and jam it in there to sit. You really don't need the C4 past the throat, use rimfire blend and a brush for your bore.
If you do get some lead, as Bob said the No Lead from Sharp Shootr works great.
Thanks, I got this even on the wrong post. Ha ha. I can buy Green tag cheap through work so thats why I was asking. It definetly tunes out at 50. I need to try some tuning at 100 just to see. I kind of agree with the first 100 yd groups as the vertical string was not good and CenterX was a tad better vertically.