Rifel Storage Effects On Accuracy

E

Eludium

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I have been wondering if the position in which you store your rifel can have any effects on it's accuracy. Could storing a rifel in a horizontal position for a long period of time affect the truness of the barrel. Are there any "best practices" regarding storage that are recommended for preserving accuracy?
 
some old guns have had moisture form in the barrel from being hung upside down on gun racks..forming corrosion at the lowest point, but this would take
a long time..mostly happened to shotguns left hanging on the wall for long periods..
 
I think that storing your rifles with the barrels vertical is probably the best.. A couple of years back, I tried storing one of my rifles with the buttstock down sitting on the floor of the gun safe and I stored one with the muzzle down on the floor of the gun safe, and over a 12 month period, the rifle that was stored muzzle down, shot the best scores. Not a scientifically conducted test, but just what I found..Don't know if it would prove that way with you or not, but I am storing my BR rifles muzzle down..

Dave
 
Back in the mid-80s.............

the marksmanship unit used to store the M-14 match rifles hanging by the butt swivel, one of the smiths at MTU-1 and I were discussing it, when he told me that when he was down there, that was what he saw. I started storing mine that way around the late 60s because of all the crud I saw had migrated down through the receiver, into the bedding, as well as gumming up the triggers. After a few months, it made a believer out of me. Never looked back...:D
 
Gun Storage

That does make a lot of sense now that I think about it because hanging by the butt stock would be the only position in which gravity wouldn't be pulling the barrel in some direction contrary to the axis of the bore. Plus the benefits related to the crud migration would sure be a bonus. Do either of you have any pictures of your holders so I can get an idea of how to set up a gun rack for this configuration? Thanks a bunch!:D
 
The old standard X-frame............

rack, I'm sure you've seen them outside at ranges. Instead of the little radiussed cuts at the top for barrels, put wider and DEEPER cuts for buttstocks. You can even angle them slightly all one way, to avoid the toe of the stock getting caught by an unwary passerby. I didn't have the money to construct a vault w/overhead facilities for hanging, so, I just put them in snug Caplugs, which can be used as inners or outers, over rifle barrels, and IN shotgun barrels. I wanted to design sides, rears, and islands for safes, but am really challenged right now, so haven't had the time,.......y'know how that is, right?? Just make sure the rifles have enough rake in the angle they're set to keep them back, and enough of a set-out on the bottom where the muzzles are resting, and make sure there is plenty of room up and down, behind to clear any 'scopes. A spade drill can make some small depressions where the Caplugs can drop in, maybe 1/4" deep should be enough, I guess. ;) Oh, and the Caplugs can be wiped out and re-used until they start to get frayed, or worn bad. I haven't seen any ill effects from heavy-barrelled varmint guns stored "at a lean" yet. Another thought just occurred, one of those Ft. Sandflat carousels custom-built w/a larger diameter top and bottom should work, also, the one that Wal-Mart used to use; I always thought that had possibilities..... Hope This Helps :D
 
Thanks for sharing your ideas, that gives me a bunch of good directions to think in. I can see a little carpentry work in my future as soon as the shop is warm enough to enhabit. :D
 
Here, this should help............

out.......
http://www.caplugs.com/productdetails.aspx?id=1000020&itemno=T+SERIES

I use them in 6X; 7X; 8; 8X; 9X; 10X; and 11X. They are also available in green flextemp, a Thermoplastic resistant to temp changes. I've only used the T-series, as I've found they work best for me. If you come up w/a new app. and want to figure the size, just measure the outside of barrel(or whatever tube) and subtract .020 and thats the size you want the CAP to be. If to be used as a plug, measure the INside diameter, ADD .020 and thats the size you want the PLUG to be. The drawing is very helpful as to how to figure what dimensions you want. Their minimum orders will last you YEARS, as these are very tough little appliances. HTH....;):D
Almost forgot, they got tall ones, too, in case you have a muzzle brake, its handier to store if you remove the brake, then put the cap on, an' all your "stuff" still runs into the cap; ARs can benefit from a cap that comes up higher, even if it doesn't come ALL the way up over the brake, the liquid will run in, without running all over the place. :D
 
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