Removing a 700 handle for a sleeve and Tig new

P

PEI Rob

Guest
The idea is to remove the handle, sleeve the bolt and Tig a new handle on.
I was thinking I could Tig the sleeve on as well. Perhaps heat the sleeve and cool the bolt for a tight fit, have the sleeve full length and under the handle. If I turn it with a slight offest for a Borden bump effect, how much undersize should I go? Can I Tig the sleeve end and handle to the bolt in one shot? If I can't get a handle made for a .702 bolt it shouldn't be too much trouble to grind it.

Any thoughts on this?
 
I will second Dans40X at accutig. I wouldn't go to the trouble to sleeve the bolt, Dave Kiff has them too cheap and you can pick your size and have Dan weld the handle for you.
Butch
 
I will be picking up a bolt from PT&G along with a couple of handles and half a dozen recoil lugs. The old bolt is the guinea pig. Its just a hobby for me so making the sleeve is no big deal. Since I need to employ a Tig welder anyway, and a local guy says he can do it with purging, I figured I can test this guy out with the old bolt. Dans40X is on the other side of the fench and that is always a PITA when shipping gun parts. I did forward Dans website to the welder to check out so he can get an understanding of what is important. I remember Dan posting about using the action for timing and his way to clamp the handle in place for welding. IIRC, Dan did not use those cool looking vise grips, maybe for his pruge setup?? I'll search for the post.
 
Funny,
I have sent 2 to Dan in Alaska and they got back 10 days after they left Texas. They are shipped insured mail both ways.
Butch
 
Not sure where you guys are going but I meant US export laws being a PITA, NOTHING else.

Cheers,
Rob
 
PEIRob,
Personally,I wouldn't install a full length sleeve-split bands fit to location on the bolt body & fusion TIG weld the split band seam to the bolt body is the cleanest.
Fusion bead width in the split band is .045" wide.

Heat sinks & purge gas works wonders.
 
Last edited:
Dan, as a general rule, is it better to reweld the bolt handle before or after other action work like truing boltface, lugs, etc.?

I'm just beginning a project with a 700 and somewhere along the way I expect to send the bolt to you but I'd like to know at what stage. Thanks.
 
German,
Utilizing an OEM Remington bolt body,it's better to locate/time the handle after the trueing process.
Using a PT&G bolt body,you have options as the lugs are +.020" longer than OEM Remington lugs.

One measurement is required to LOCATE the handle.
 
Tig/Sleeve Remington Bolt

Dan did this before I sent it to Greg Tannel. Exceptional X 2:D
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5680.jpg
    IMG_5680.jpg
    20.6 KB · Views: 386
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks Dan, I'm listening. I noted I could simpy buy pre made split sleeves but liked the idea of a full length sleeve and have no issue with spending the time making one. Are there any tech reasons you wouldn't use a full length sleeve?
 
PEI Rob said:
Thanks Dan, I'm listening. I noted I could simpy buy pre made split sleeves but liked the idea of a full length sleeve and have no issue with spending the time making one. Are there any tech reasons you wouldn't use a full length sleeve?
Click to expand...

I've seen full sleeves on 700 bolts but they were a slip fit, not TIG welded in place. Plus, the bolt handle was silver soldered back on after the sleeve was put in place. The bolt body was turned down to something like .650, IIRC, making the sleeve about .025 wall thickness.
What wall thickness are you considering?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top