Removal of CZ 527 Factory Barrel

J

jdjframes

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I've heard these are a bear to remove without destroying the barrel.

Any tips, hints, real life experiences? Application of heat? Special wrenches & vises?

Or just brute force and hope the action doesn't twist?

Thanks.

Jim
 
jdjframes said:
I've heard these are a bear to remove without destroying the barrel.

Any tips, hints, real life experiences? Application of heat? Special wrenches & vises?

Or just brute force and hope the action doesn't twist?

Thanks.

Jim
Click to expand...

I don't have any direct experience, but I'm probably going to rebarrel one this coming winter, so I'll be interested to read replies to your question.

My plan, completely untested, is to make a good bushing for my barrel vise that fits the barrel and tighten it in my barrel vise with the full 20 tons of clamping pressure. I also plan to make a custom rear entry receiver wrench to fit in the small receiver of the CZ527. Then to go ahead and see if I can turn it off. If it doesn't move with what I consider reasonable torque, I'll try heating it to 300F or so and try again. If that doesn't work, I'll make a receiver wrench to fit the outside of the receiver. The integral recoil lug and flat bottom of the receiver should give me a way to apply torque with out deforming it. I'll equip all the contact points with brass pads, and give that a try.

Anyway, absent any other input, that's what I plan to do, but, I repeat, I've not done it yet so it's no better than a working hypothesis at this point.

Fitch
 
I would saw the barrel off, and bore out the remainder in a lathe. I have done this. You end up with a unmarred action.
 
The search function sometimes yields good results. Take a look at this thread:

http://benchrest.com/showthread.php...nner-ring-or-action-face-ring&highlight=CZ527

I think it answers a lot of questions, some of which I didn't even know I needed to ask.

Most important, those who have done several CZ527 rebarrels warn that a tight action wrench will cause the barrel to be very difficult to remove, which at least suggests that the problem might be created by the tool more than being inherent in the factory joint. I have, as a result of reading this, abandoned my rear entry wrench, at least for removal and will built a carefully fit conventional wrench that takes advantage of the shape of the receiver to apply torque with out squeezing the receiver ring. I may use a rear entry wrench for installation, or not. That's still up in the air.

I would very much like to see a photograph of a CZ527 barrel shank so I can better understand it.

Fitch
 
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Fitch:

#1. I don't have any experience with this stuff at all, just looking for info with the possibility of having a 6x47 or 25/223 built as a light weight carry rifle.

#2. Acording to Alan in GA, a well fitted rear entry wrench should avoid the problem of squeezing the receiver ring. Careful application of heat in addition to the rear wrench might be the way to go.

#3. I second the Calhoon single shot adapter. A bit heavy, but nicely made and it works as it should.

Thanks,

Jim
 
I too have considered using a CZ527 as the basis for a 6x47, .20 Practical, K-Hornet, and some others when I'm sitting there with a hot cuppa Joe and some time to muse about things. My CZ527 American .223 is my favorite ground hog rifle by a large margin. Light, accurate, reliable as gravity, doesn't hardly get better than that.

CZ also sells actions, at least I see them advertised in Jerry's wholesale catalog.

+1 on the Calhoon single shot adaptor. I have one for my Hornet. I should get one of his magazines that will hold a 0.1" longer cartridge.

Fitch
 
frwillia said:
Most important, those who have done several CZ527 rebarrels warn that a tight action wrench will cause the barrel to be very difficult to remove, which at least suggests that the problem might be created by the tool more than being inherent in the factory joint.


Fitch
Click to expand...

Fitch,

That's interesting as I just experienced the same thing with a Model 70 push feed when I went to take the barrel off. The first revolution or two were like "Ugh...I KNOW the threads aren't that tight cuz I did the threading"! Thought I'd forgot the anti-seize and galled things up a bit. Took the action wrench off and un-screwed the action by hand, easy as can be.

Never had that happen on a 700.

Justin
 
Fitch:

Actions are, or were, available from CZ for around $425 or so a couple of years ago.

The catch is I only paid $495 for an American in fine condition, so I got the action and stock for a decent price.

I wish CZ would import the 550 in 7x57 with hinged floorplate.

Jim
 
jdjframes said:
Fitch:

Actions are, or were, available from CZ for around $425 or so a couple of years ago.

The catch is I only paid $495 for an American in fine condition, so I got the action and stock for a decent price.

I wish CZ would import the 550 in 7x57 with hinged floorplate.

Jim
Click to expand...

I hear ya. I just bought a CZ527 American .223 with synthetic stock and a 4-12x40 Leupold VX-1 on it for my brother in law for $450. There are some bargains out there.

Fitch
 
I've removed two CZ 527 barrels in the past, and I don't remember them being overly difficult. Clamp the barrel in a barrel vice, and I believe I machined a fitted sleeve for my action wrench that fit the brownell's vice. A good wack with a 3lb aluminum mallet and it broke free and spun off easily.
 
Clark said:
I have taken my barrel off.

It is like any other rifle.View attachment 11555View attachment 11556View attachment 11557
Click to expand...

Thank you for the pictures. This gives me a much better understanding of the barrel fit.

Looking at the pactures, it doesn't look to me that this is like most other actions. Clearly the breech end of the barrel is torqued against an inner ring which I see in the action picture, and the shoulder face isn't torqued against the action face as it would be on a Remington, or most other rifles. Very enteresting.

I can also see what other posters were talking about and why trying to set the shoulder by referencing the front surface of the action would be problamatic since it isn't a flat machined surface.

Most helpful.

Thanks Again
Fitch
 
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