Remington 700 HELP!!!!!!

B

bspeckchaser

Guest
Totally new problem but need professional assistance!! My son was shooting his 300 WM and tried to chamber a handload that was too tight. Now we have a stuck live shell in the chamber...but it gets better. I tried to open the bolt by hitting it with the heel of my hand and the bolt handle came loose from the bolt body. I know, sounds impossible, but it happened.

Anyone know a gunsmith in the Houston, Tx area who might be able to give me some help with this one?

Any direction on this one is greatly appreciated!!!
 
I guess the bbl will have to be removed. Was the bolt nearly closed or only 1/2 way or ????

If it is only barely closed then the firing pin probably can't reach the primer but you still need to treat it like a live bomb.
 
Bolt was closed maybe 1/4 of the way, and right about the Bomb thought!! I just need to find a good gunsmith down here to work on it as it is a bigger project now than I am capable of handling right.
 
Dangerous

bspeckchaser said:
Totally new problem but need professional assistance!! My son was shooting his 300 WM and tried to chamber a handload that was too tight. Now we have a stuck live shell in the chamber...but it gets better. I tried to open the bolt by hitting it with the heel of my hand and the bolt handle came loose from the bolt body. I know, sounds impossible, but it happened.

Anyone know a gunsmith in the Houston, Tx area who might be able to give me some help with this one?

Any direction on this one is greatly appreciated!!!
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Fire the round. Remove the barrel.

Put the SAFETY ON FIRST.

If you live in a suburb, dig a hole in your backyard with a post hole digger deep enough to take the rifle vertically (MUZZLE DOWN). Cut/or whole small plastic bottle to go on the muzzle and taped it to it. Old rugs to pack the rifle tightly in the hole, loose string noose around the trigger and through a small hole through a 6mm thick steel plate generously overlaping the hole. Undo the SAFETY, Stand on the plate and pull the trigger. If done correctly it's absolutely silent. I don't have to tell you how DANGEROUS it's to manipulate with a loaded firearm that may have a serious problem.
If you live on land use a tyre and spare yourself of all the digging.

I've done several of these tests over the years and still can talk about them.

Shoot well
Peter
 
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Bad plan !

bspeckchaser said:
Bolt was closed maybe 1/4 of the way, and right about the Bomb thought!! I just need to find a good gunsmith down here to work on it as it is a bigger project now than I am capable of handling right.
Click to expand...

Im not a expert in this arena, However firing a rifle, a magnum nonetheless with only 1/4 the bolt engaged sounds like a bad plan !

Didnt say I had the answer either.

Only thought I have would be to scrap the bolt shroud. Drill through the shroud into the firing pin and secure it with a roll pin. The use extreame caution and removed the barrel ?

Otherwise I got nothing :confused:
 
crb said:
I guess the bbl will have to be removed. Was the bolt nearly closed or only 1/2 way or ????

If it is only barely closed then the firing pin probably can't reach the primer but you still need to treat it like a live bomb.
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You may be right, but to clamp the cocking piece rather than drill the shroud may just add that little bit of extra safety. I've never done it, but what about a glue to get under the cocking piece? Not a envious situation by any stretch of an imagination. One can only hope that it's the case body and not the neck what's causing the problem.
Let us know how you go with it.

Shoot well
Peter
 
I don't have any more ideas than those who have already responded, but I doubt if 1/4 closed would allow the firing pin to go far enough forward to fire the round. Being as I have all the equipment, I would opt for pulling the barrel.

On the 2X4 versus the bolt handle issue, you're not the first and certainly won't be the last to find out just how little force it takes to overcome that silver braze joint. On a recent project of my own, I sent my Dave Kiff bolt body and a Rem 700 handle to 40X from this forum for one of his very nicely done TIG jobs. After inspecting the job, I think the bolt body would fail before the handle would come off.
 
Firstly, the firing pin probably won't reach the primer to fire the round. Its only the last .050" or so that gets out beyond the bolt face. The cocking piece is going to hit the cocking ramp if the bolt is only closed 1/4 of the way. Nonetheless, we don't know how much the bolt is actually closed or the relationship between all the pieces. Treat it like a loaded, ready to fire weapon FROM BOTH ENDS.

Secondly how do you know the locking lugs are not still in the lead-in ramps ????? If you did get the firing pin to detonate the primer what happens when the many thousands of lbs of bolt thrust are placed upon a set of locking lugs that are not fully engaged ???? The bolt could be propelled out the back like a big heavy bullet. I doubt the bolt stop will slow it down very much.

Call a gunsmith and talk to them about it. When you take it to their shop leave the rifle in the car and let the gunsmith go out and get it. All this time treat BOTH ENDS of the rifle like they are the muzzle.
 
Since it was a custom rifle, the original gunsmith and one of his gunsmith friends have agreed to undertake this adventure. Took me a little time to track down the gunsmith as I was not the original owner.

Thanks to all of you that offered advice! Now pray for a good ending!!!
Bill B
 
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