Remington 700 bolt Help

S

sphinx9mm

Guest
I can use some advice from you professional gunsmiths, I was at a gun show this weekend and picked up a used remington 700 short action bolt complete for a project that I have been planing, When i got home I checked out the bolt much closer and found that someone had turned down the recoil lugs. I checked the thickness of the lugs against another Remington S.A. bolt that I have and found the one that I purchased the lugs to be .030 thous. smaller than my orginal bolt lugs. orginal lugs .430 , purchased bolt .400 the material appears to been removed from the back of the lug that mates against the reciever. my question is would this bolt be safe to use in building a standard 223 Remington. Or did I purchase a fishing sinker.
 
Spinx,

.030 is quite a bit to remove from the rear of the lugs just to true them up. The bolt is still completely safe, however you may find that the geometry of the trigger sear/cocking peice sear has changed enough to give you some problems with fireing pin striking force. You will just have to try it and see. Keep us posted on the results. Also you may want to consider the .030 when you are turning the barrel tenion. (not tendon)

Don
 
Is the front of the bolt trued?

.030 is a bunch to remove off the back of the lugs. Could they have taken some of that off the front of the lugs? On a stock remington bolt, I usually true up the nose of the bolt for a more uniform fit into the barrel.

Still .015 off both the front & back is more than I'd expect to be necessary.
Regards, Ron
 
Shinx

Compare the gap on each side of the bolt handle in the closed position. If possible measure it and give me the numbers. Front and rear. That will be a good indicator of where the metal was removed and what the next step should be, if any.

Dave
 
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I want mine to be about .008"-.010" at the front of the handle. The handle should be close at the front and it doesnt really matter at the back.
 
If I'm installing a bolt handle I like .010, maybe a little under that. I have to make a profit and if I get it to close and there is silver solder that has to be cleaned up, it can take a while.

Dave
 
Dave , I don't have the action to put it in yet, to give you the measurements you asked for. I took measurements from another short action bolt and it seems that the material was removed from the back side of the lugs facing the bolt handle. Will this bolt still be safe to use with that much material removed. Just for the heck of it I tried the bolt with firing pin assembly installed in another reciever that is attached to a barrel with the trigger installed on it. The bolt will not close, the handle hits the back of the notch cut in the reciever for the bolt handle. If I push foward on the bolt toward the muzzle the bolt will then close in the slot. The gap between the front of the handle and the slot is .050 when closed and the back of the handle hits the back of the slot. When the bolt is opened it dosn't touch the cam angle on the back of the reciever. What can be done to repair this? or should I bite the bullet and buy a new bolt. I guess you get what you pay for.
 
If you can't fix it I have one for you.

If you can't fix your bolt I have an unmodified 722 bolt with small bolt face I will sell you. PM me if you need it.
 
sphinx

It will be safe but it sounds like there will be other issues.
The bolt handle will in all likelyhodd need to be moved forward on the bolt body, 1. to get it to close without hitting the action and 2. to get some extraction when the bolt handle hits the camming surface at the top of the bolt rotation. In the past I have moved the bolt handle forward or I have drilled a 1/8" hole in the cam area on the action and epoxied in a piece of drill rod, then dressed it down with a dremel tool to the point that the bolt would just clear it and close. Maximum extraction that way. May seem a little crude but if you blue it no one knows it's there except the guy shooting it.

Dave
 
Thanks, I going to remove the bolt handle and try moving it foreward.and get it back in time thanks again for the help.
 
Something that was not mentioned in above post.
Was the bolt machined properly? Is the inside corner of the rear of the lug where it meets the bolt body properly radiused or was it done with a sharp pointed tool,If so the bolt could form a crack in this area.Get another bolt body rather than risk the resulting problems.

Chuck;)
 
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