Rem 700's- toss the ejector?

M

matt wolf

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I've got 2 F/TR rifles in .308. One's 722 based, and one's a very early PGW Coyote. Both have the plunger type ejector system, and I'm toying with the idea of having GreTan pop the ejectors out and fill the holes. I can't see how the plunger can do anything but harm in the accuracy department, and having the case lying on the loading tray has some appeal over tossing it in the grass. Any reason not to do this?
 
You can shorten the spring until it barely pops them out or shorten it enough that it won't. I wouldn't fill in the holes. I've never seen it be necessary to do so.

Hovis
 
Is there any benifit to filling the holes when it comes to running higher pressure loads?
 
Shorten/weaken the spring so the empties just tip out or stay in the bolt slightly 'cocked'... you won't see any difference in accuracy, it just makes it nicer than throwing them so hard...
 
you can use the ejector hole(with the ejector in place) to watch for brass extursion as the load gets hotter and hotter....a little raised spot that will smear a little as the bolt turns.



mike in co
 
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One of my customers stopped by the other day and he just recently had a case rupture in a brand x action (rem style) with no ejector, he took a very bad shot of gas in the face which could have been less had the ejector been in place.
 
If I remember correctly, on my 722, the ejector "clocks" the extractor. A long time ago, I pulled the ejector on mine and then discovered that I couldn't remove the case from the bolt face without removing the bolt from the action, because the extractor had rotated. I settled for lightening the spring to the lowest value that would cause it to protrude from the bolt face. The action now lives behind a Hart barrel, with a tight necked .222 chamber, and is glued in a prototype EDGE stock. I don't think that the ejector has hurt it much. The last that it was shot, a friend shot a five shot group in the high ones.
 
I have taken the ejector out of several Rem actions and replaced it with a flush pin that I mild locktited in place. You can make a flush pin with the smooth shank of a drill bit.

The case will lay in the loading port and you simply pick it out with your finger.

You can always remove the pin with a little heat (heat gun) and a magnet.

Bob
 
Thanks gents, I think I'll just shorten up the spring a bit and call it good.
 
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