Reloading 7MM STW (Belted Cases)

T

topwater225

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My question is more about "Belted Cases" than "caliber"..., but here goes:

I am not new to average reloading, but I want to take my reloading to the "precision" level for long range hunting/competition.

I just ordered a new custom rifle in 7mm STW (belted case), and I want to be sure I do the reloading steps right without re-inventing the wheel. So, here are the steps I envision performing. And I would greatly appreciate if some of you would verify/correct my theory.

Brand New Brass: After Purchasing the Redding Competition Die Set (FL, Neck, Micrometer seater) and the Stoney Point Head Space Gauge.

1. Take new brass and FL size using the expander ball to get dents out. Priming will be done at this stage as well.
2. Check case lengths and trim if necessary to get all brass at min length (2.84"), and make sure no particles of brass is left in the case.
3. Fill cases with powder using trickle method to make sure all loads are consistent.
4. Insert the Micrometer seating die.
5. Using dimensions that the gunsmith gives me :) ; seat 175 SMK or 180 Berger to lands.

Fired Brass:
1. Check fired brass with Stoney Point Head Space Gauge.
2. Remove expander ball as this is only used for New Brass. (I don't know if the expander ball can be removed without removing the de-capping pin....I need advice here...)
3. Check case lenght and trim as needed.
4. Set the FL sizing die to just "bump" the shoulder back to the desired length and decap and re-prime (Again, what is your opinion here? If the expander ball and de-capping pin can not be separated, should I perform de-capping with a different kind of die, and should I be "hand priming"?

Now.... I'm really fuzzy on the redding neck sizer and if it's even needed, but here goes:

5. Use the neck sizing gauge to re-size just the neck (This maybe unnecessary as the FL die probably sizes the neck). I need advice here too....
5. Fill cases with powder using same trickle method as above.
6. Seat Bullets to exact dimensions.

All opinions are welcome, and thanks in advance!!!
 
Topwater,
With the Belted Magnum Cases you'll probably get more information in the 1000 Yard forum if this doesn't help you.
1. Take new brass and FL size using the expander ball to get dents out. Priming will be done at this stage as well. This works well for ensuring the case mouths are round. You may want to bump the shoulder here to make sure the cases chamber easily. If the chamber is min. spec.
2. Check case lengths and trim if necessary to get all brass at min length (2.84"), and make sure no particles of brass is left in the case. Correct if 2.84" is the correct trim-to length for the STW
3. Fill cases with powder using trickle method to make sure all loads are consistent. To the tenth of a grain
4. Insert the Micrometer seating die.
5. Using dimensions that the gunsmith gives me ; seat 175 SMK or 180 Berger to lands. Seat a bullet long in empty case and use the bolt to seat the bullet to maximum overall catridge length. The bullet will be touching the lands. Then screw your micrometer topped seater (with the seater stem backed up high enough not to touch the bullet)into the press, place the dummy round in the shell holder, run the case up in the seater die and then turn the micrometer top down until it touches the bullet. It is set.

Fired Brass:
1. Check fired brass with Stoney Point Head Space Gauge.Forget this.
2. Remove expander ball as this is only used for New Brass. (I don't know if the expander ball can be removed without removing the de-capping pin....I need advice here...)Unless you have a tight neck chamber and using S type bushings, leave the expander on. I am shooting a .334 nk .300 Ackley and my RCBS Comp. Sizer still has the expander in it. It is a non issue.
3. Check case lenght and trim as needed.Correct
4. Set the FL sizing die to just "bump" the shoulder back to the desired length and decap and re-prime (Again, what is your opinion here? If the expander ball and de-capping pin can not be separated, should I perform de-capping with a different kind of die, and should I be "hand priming"?Yes resize to bump the shoulder .001" to .003", Just enough so that the bolt does not have resistance until the bolt is 2/3 closed. Yes a Hand primer will give you more feel. About $14.00 for a Lee Auto Prime.

Now.... I'm really fuzzy on the redding neck sizer and if it's even needed, but here goes:Dont use it. Full Length resize with the Belted Magnum to just bump the shoulder, Prime, Charge, Seat and Shoot!

5. Use the neck sizing gauge to re-size just the neck (This maybe unnecessary as the FL die probably sizes the neck). I need advice here too....
5. Fill cases with powder using same trickle method as above.
6. Seat Bullets to exact dimensions.
 
Thanks Baron-
So, just to be clear....you don't think I should use a Head Space Gauge, as setting the sizing die to the bolt resitance method is more than adequate?
 
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