Rebluing bore

R

Rflshootr

Member
I bought an older factory Savage -06 that had heavy fouling in the bore. I gave it a very through cleaning & JB'ed the bore.
I then bore scoped it & the bore seemed bright with a good finish. I took it to the range & fired 20 rounds.
The next cleaning showed a fair amount of copper fouling. There is almost none of the original blue left in the bore. I was wondering if cold bluing the bore would help reduce the fouling to any extent or if doing so may harm anything. Thanks.
 
I plugged the bore of any barrel I ever had blued. I just never wanted blue down the bore. Hot blue is a form of rust, I suppose cold bluing is also in some form.
 
give Ultra Bore Coat a try.. works very well in bores that like to foul quickly.

Brownells cares it
 
Rflshootr said:
I bought an older factory Savage -06 that had heavy fouling in the bore. I gave it a very through cleaning & JB'ed the bore.
I then bore scoped it & the bore seemed bright with a good finish. I took it to the range & fired 20 rounds.
The next cleaning showed a fair amount of copper fouling. There is almost none of the original blue left in the bore. I was wondering if cold bluing the bore would help reduce the fouling to any extent or if doing so may harm anything. Thanks.
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Typical of many Savage/Stevens barrels. I recently rebarreled a Stevens action with a factory 7mm-08 barrel. After approximatel 100 rounds fired and a good cleaning between 12 round strings, my copper fouling is at a minimum. I've found that KG-12 with a nylon brush removes copper very quick. I also use the KG carbon remover.
 
I suspect bluing has no effect in the bore. All barrels that are hot blued are blued inside and out... only because plugging a bore and trying to hot blue it is making a bomb that will explode with terrible consequences in the 300 degree caustic solution.
 
Dennis. Im not talking two cork's here. Drill rod threaded both ends, delrin washers held wih nuts, and flat washers. Blow that apart at 300 degrees.This may come as a suprise, but some us has seen a rifle before.Some even the bluing process.
 
B.Johnson said:
Dennis. Im not talking two cork's here. Drill rod threaded both ends, delrin washers held wih nuts, and flat washers. Blow that apart at 300 degrees.This may come as a suprise, but some us has seen a rifle before.Some even the bluing process.
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ROTFLMAO!!!!

So THERE Dennis!

You chilly Canuck you....

al
 
B.Johnson said:
Dennis. Im not talking two cork's here. Drill rod threaded both ends, delrin washers held wih nuts, and flat washers. Blow that apart at 300 degrees.This may come as a suprise, but some us has seen a rifle before.Some even the bluing process.
Click to expand...

It's good you clarify what you are doing. You weren't talking about two corks, you weren't talking about any method of plugging...You are the first person I have heard of who plugs a bore for hot bluing.

There are many inexperienced who read gunsmithing forums and believe everything they read and may try it... and if an inexperienced person believes they can plug a bore for hot bluing, they better do it right. I don't understand why one would want to do it to start with and I was taught not to do it because if the plugs fail it may be quite nasty. I am glad you have seen a rifle and the bluing process.
 
I agree with Dennis, I have always blued the complete barrel, never have I seen it detrimental to accuracy. One time I splashed hot blue on my self. Fortunately I have my wife help me when I have a lot to do. I always keep a garden hose handy and this time I needed it to rinse! That crap burns to the bone.
 
Dennis, I just did not want to change anything the barrel maker did in finishing. The man the does the bluing felt the rod was handy way to hang the barrel in the tank.
 
New name of UBC is dyna bore coat,I just never wanted blue down the bore. Hot blue is a form of rust, I suppose cold bluing is also in some form.
 
Things are slow this evening so I may as well put in my two cents. Technically bluing,as was earlier stated, is a controled rust process. But not in the sense most of us think of rust. Unlike plating bluing does not ad dimensionally to the surface of steel. The surface finnish is entirely dependent upon the polishing grit used. As an example if you use a 600+ grit it will look like black chrome. Before we could buy our salts premixed we use to use sodium hydroxide, sodium nitrate and sodium nitrite. In the early days of bench shooting before stainless was available a lot of chrome moly barrels were blued and if they didn't shoot as good or last as long as unblued barrels it was a well kept secret. But I guess as my dad use to say "if everyone had the same opinion it would be a dull world!"
 
Rflshootr said:
I bought an older factory Savage -06 that had heavy fouling in the bore. I gave it a very through cleaning & JB'ed the bore.
I then bore scoped it & the bore seemed bright with a good finish. I took it to the range & fired 20 rounds.
The next cleaning showed a fair amount of copper fouling. There is almost none of the original blue left in the bore. I was wondering if cold bluing the bore would help reduce the fouling to any extent or if doing so may harm anything. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Copper fouling is normal, and a certain level of this is needed to obtain best accuracy from your barrel. I used to waste hours attempting to return my barrel to like new condition each time I shot. Then came to realize that it took some shooting before groups would really tighten up. I now clean the barrel of powder fouling at the bench immediately following use, and as soon as the patches start coming out without black or gray color I stop. Before shooting again, I run one dry patch down the barrel to remove any copper fouling (dark green) and proceed to shoot. I try to not allow more than 80 rounds to be fired before cleaning. During breakin, I clean after every 10 rounds for the first 200 rounds.

One of the National champions Jerry Tierney follows the same cleaning procedure...
 
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