Rebarreling Question

[Swifty]

Hey guys, this might be a dumb question but has anyone ever heard of or know if it is possible to rebarrel a Tikka T3? Just a question that popped into my head today and wanted to see what you all had to say.Would it be worth it to build on a Tikka action at all?

 

[Swifty]

???? noone has any input for me?

 

[JohnVm]

You should probably post this on the gunsmith forum. I am not a gunsmith but it should be possible, as far as if it is worth it or not depends on if the action is metric and what you plan on using the rifle for. If you figure on a good hunting, varmint or informal target rifle and you can find a reputable gunsmith to do it for you and it is all within your budget it would be a go. If you are planning on serious precision shooting and money is no object than it is up to you, personally I wouldn't go any farther than varmint gun.

 

[Riflemeister]

The Tika is basically an earlier version of the Sako action with a different scope rail and magazine system. The Sako actions imported for the US market had a US thread where complete rifles I have rebarreled have been metric thread. The metric thread cutting process with a lathe that has a US thread lead screw requires that once the half nut is engaged, the entire thread cutting operation is performed without disengaging the half nut. Any competent machinist/gunsmith should be able to perform that operation.

 

[Bnhpr]

The Tika is basically an earlier version of the Sako action with a different scope rail and magazine system. The Sako actions imported for the US market had a US thread where complete rifles I have rebarreled have been metric thread. The metric thread cutting process with a lathe that has a US thread lead screw requires that once the half nut is engaged, the entire thread cutting operation is performed without disengaging the half nut. Any competent machinist/gunsmith should be able to perform that operation.

I've never threaded a barrel, but I've cut lots of metric threads on the crummy Asian/European stuff I work on.

I have to change the gears in the lathe to cut metric threads. As mentioned above, you need to leave the lead screw engaged for the entire process of several passes.

I do this by cutting them quite a bit slower than inch threads. I stop the lathe at the end of the pass, and back the cross feed off at the same time, power the lathe in reverse back to your starting point, and make another run at it.

It's not bad. The key is to check your work with a thread mic before moving your work piece and releasing the half nut. In the case that you screw up, you can re-time the thread, but that's a longer discussion than you might want to hear right now.